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On the Corvair I autocrossed when I was a kid we called it a camber compensater or sway bar. It connected the two back wheels and kept them from tucking under during hard cornering. I bought it right after I almost rolled the car in a hard corner. Today, while driving the Speedster, I felt the back end start to come up in a corner so...where is a good place to buy a rear sway bar for it???
1957 CMC(Speedster)
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On the Corvair I autocrossed when I was a kid we called it a camber compensater or sway bar. It connected the two back wheels and kept them from tucking under during hard cornering. I bought it right after I almost rolled the car in a hard corner. Today, while driving the Speedster, I felt the back end start to come up in a corner so...where is a good place to buy a rear sway bar for it???
I have an anti-sway bar on the back of my swing axle based car, and it really helped the drive-ability.
I have had bugs for years all early models with swing axles, and the improvement in handling after installing the rear anti-sway bar was dramatic.
You must use a front anti-sway bar too, or your car can be unstable.

I have never used a camber compensator, so I cannot speak about the differences between anti-sway bars and camber compensators.

While you are under the car, check all the common wear items too like ball joints, suspension bushings, shocks, and the like. I have also had some of the fasteners come loose on my suspension, so it's always a good idea to check for this every once in a while.

I pick up my anti-sway bars from moore parts. Mid America is overpriced IMHO.

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  • Sway bar U-bolt
Just thinking about camber compensators (I had one on a 62 Corvair):

The reason a Corvair needed one was because it had 13 inch wheels, soft springs, and a large amount of body roll in the corners. Now add skinney, fairly hard compound, corded tires used back then, and "loosing the rear end" was an event waiting to happen. When the rear end did break away under sprited motoring, it was usually a curb or a rut in the road that suddenly caught the rear wheel causing it to "tuck under" and maybe flip the car.

Now think of a speedster, with larger diameter radial tires, much better road adhesion, less weight and a lower center of gravity. The likelihood of the rear tires "tucking under" would seem to be much less. Plus, if you had an anti-sway bar on the front, you are also reducing body roll in the corners. For these reasons, I believe a modern speedster with a swing axle is far less likely to "tuck under" than an original Corvair.

Now, forget what I said, go buy that camber compensator and drive it like you stole it!
I feel that Sway-A-way is the best. The compensator used to be in the good old USA. I could not find one for Merlot and ended up with EMPI.It is produced some were in the Pacific Rim. H--L to install the mounting bracket because I have a Rancho tranny which is wider than the bracket. Hammering, bending and grade 10.? metric socket-head cap screws are recommended.
Lane,

I thought that Carey put on the CB...What you don't know, don't hurt you!!!! The transaxle bracket has to be widened to fit over the Rancho. One side plate is cast and the other is a thicker aluminum. Also, best to increase the stud lengths due to bracket thickness. I recommend socket head cap screws due to the increased strength over the existing studs or standard grade hex-head cap screws. I don't care for the "straps" over the axle housings. I feel that the urethane blocks are better.

The proper mounting method was supplied by Carey and his people.
Lane,

I thought that Carey put on the CB...What you don't know, don't hurt you!!!! The transaxle bracket has to be widened to fit over the Rancho. One side plate is cast and the other is a thicker aluminum. Also, best to increase the stud lengths due to bracket thickness. I recommend socket head cap screws due to the increased strength over the existing studs or standard grade hex-head cap screws. I don't care for the "straps" over the axle housings. I feel that the urethane blocks are better.

The proper mounting method was supplied by Carey and his people.

Of course, the best compensator is the one that was factory installed. My 356B was one that was set-up in Germany and brought back to the U.S. by an Army Officer. Damned, that was one great handling machine. Blow a tire at over 100 MPH on the old Texas straight road...the left rear just bounced up and down. Don't make'em like that any more!
Lane,

I thought that Carey put on the CB...What you don't know, don't hurt you!!!! The transaxle bracket has to be widened to fit over the Rancho. One side plate is cast and the other is a thicker aluminum. Also, best to increase the stud lengths due to bracket thickness. I recommend socket head cap screws due to the increased strength over the existing studs or standard grade hex-head cap screws. I don't care for the "straps" over the axle housings. I feel that the urethane blocks are better.

The proper mounting method was supplied by Carey and his people.

Of course, the best compensator is the one that was factory installed. My 356B was one that was set-up in Germany and brought back to the U.S. by an Army Officer. Damned, that was one great handling machine. Blow a tire at over 100 MPH on the old Texas straight road...the left rear just bounced up and down. Don't make'em like that any more!
I just upgraded my IM's IRS suspension... 3/4" Bugpack sway bars (made by Sway-A-Way) front and rear, KYB Gas front and Gas-A-Just rear, plus upgraded the rear torsion bars to 26mm. HUGE difference! Not too rough, but definitely feels more stable in the corners. Best help was a really good alignment setup as well. My car was way out of spec when aligned, now -2 degrees camber front and rear, zero tow front and slight tow-in in the rear. GREAT article on suspension setup here for both swing and IRS rear: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/handling.htm
When thread started - I thought swing axel only had choice of camber compensator and a IRS rear sway (anti-sway) bar. Now I see photos of swing axel with either (but not both). I don't see CIP1 even listing rear sway bar for swing axel (others do though). Not that I have swing axel - but what's difference in two products for a swing axel? I did find this:

The camber compensator limits the tendency of the inner rear wheel to tuck under, and also functions as a sort of overload spring. As posted, this is somewhat similar to the Z-bar VW put there in '67/'68. There is no increase in roll stiffness.

A sway bar (or more correctly, an anti-sway bar) does the opposite, increasing the roll stiffness. You NEVER want to increase rear roll stiffness without also increasing front roll stiffness. If you do, you will increase the oversteering tendency, which is quite unsafe.

For swing axel, go for the camber compensator unless you are also going to a much thicker front anti-sway bar.
Hi all; a 1970 should have IRS but I believe VS does away with the IRS and installs swingaxles in their cars (don't recall if there's an upcharge to install IRS). Anyway, I installed an EMPI camber compensator in my car some years ago and it slip right in on my stock sized swingaxle tranny without any mods; it has the red urethane supports and has worked very well.
Dan:

As mentioned here several times, when you call CB, just tell them you have a "Swing Axle Rear End". They'll know exactly what it is and send you the correct gizmo.

For the front end, just tell them it's a "1970 Ball Joint Front End" and they'll send you the right sway bar. You may have to choose between a 3/8" diameter, 1/2" diameter or a 3/4" diameter for the front. I would go with the 3/8" or 1/2". Larger than that will be a bit stiff.

gn
The Speedstah Guy from Beaufort
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