what is the best way to tighten the axle nut on swing axle,and can it be overtightened, or under tightened. bill
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what is the best way to tighten the axle nut on swing axle,and can it be overtightened, or under tightened. bill
Bill, the Muir book says that the rear axle nut should be torqued to 220 Ft. Lbs.
--Jack
Forget what the Muir books says and shoot for 250 to 300 ft lbs.
Several ways to do this. Use a Heavy duty impact gun.
A tool is made that bolts to the drum/rotor and via a gear mechanism, it will multiply torque.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036
Or the old stand by method.. Use a 18" breaker bar, apply 200 pounds to the end of the breaker bar and you've exerted 300 ft. pounds of torque
Another tool availabe allows you to use a breaker bar and/or a sledge hammer:
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1045
Several ways to do this. Use a Heavy duty impact gun.
A tool is made that bolts to the drum/rotor and via a gear mechanism, it will multiply torque.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036
Or the old stand by method.. Use a 18" breaker bar, apply 200 pounds to the end of the breaker bar and you've exerted 300 ft. pounds of torque
Another tool availabe allows you to use a breaker bar and/or a sledge hammer:
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1045
This has been covered several times on here (use the search function) but I'll cover it again:
Yes, that nut can be too loose OR too tight. Too loose is far more serious than too tight, as a loose drum will chew up the splines on the drum (first) and/or axle shaft (later) - NOT COOL!
First, go weigh yourself and note the weight. For example, I currently weigh 170 lbs. (That's 11.5 stones for you Brits)
To tighten your rear axle nuts (or remove self-same nuts), you'll need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 3-4 foot piece of sturdy pipe that will slip over the end of the breaker bar to act as a lever, along with a 36mm, 6-point socket.
Assemble the socket to the breaker bar and attach to the axle nut such that bar and pipe are angled off at about a 2 o'clock direction.
Now, from Larry's post, you'll need to torque the nut to 250 foot pounds - that,s 250 pounds pressing down on the breaker bar handle at a distance of 1 foot from the socket pivot point. But all I weigh is 170 lbs.
What to do??
Simple: Move out along the bar until your weight and the leverage advantage of the pipe/breaker bar equals 220 pounds.
The equation is: 220 lbs./your weight = distance from pivot (in feet)
So, 220 ft. lbs / 170 lbs = 1.294 feet out along the bar
1.47 feet = approximately 17.5 inches.
Follow so far?
OK, so put a piece of tape on the pipe at 17.5 inches from the socket pivot point, have a helper step FIRMLY on the brake pedal, balance yourself against something while you place one foot directly on top of the tape on the pipe and gently press down with all of your weight until the pipe stops moving. If you need to reposition the socket to get the pipe back up to about 2 o'clock, do so and repeat until the pipe/bar stops moving. Do not "bounce" on the bar - just let your weight settle it. Do not use both feet! Put all of your weight on that one foot that's on that spot on the bar. when the bar stops moving and you're just standing there on it, you'll be at the 220 ft/lbs. point.
That's it. Of course, your weight (and mine) may vary. If you weigh more than 220 lbs, the tape should be less than 12" from the pivot point - if less than 220 lbs. it should be more than 12" out. Do the math and position accordingly. Remember to put the middle of your foot directly over the tape to avoid being in or out. The amount of error here (if done right) is roughly equal to or less than the error in all of our un-calibrated Shade-Tree-Mechanic torque wrenches out there.
gn
Yes, that nut can be too loose OR too tight. Too loose is far more serious than too tight, as a loose drum will chew up the splines on the drum (first) and/or axle shaft (later) - NOT COOL!
First, go weigh yourself and note the weight. For example, I currently weigh 170 lbs. (That's 11.5 stones for you Brits)
To tighten your rear axle nuts (or remove self-same nuts), you'll need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 3-4 foot piece of sturdy pipe that will slip over the end of the breaker bar to act as a lever, along with a 36mm, 6-point socket.
Assemble the socket to the breaker bar and attach to the axle nut such that bar and pipe are angled off at about a 2 o'clock direction.
Now, from Larry's post, you'll need to torque the nut to 250 foot pounds - that,s 250 pounds pressing down on the breaker bar handle at a distance of 1 foot from the socket pivot point. But all I weigh is 170 lbs.
What to do??
Simple: Move out along the bar until your weight and the leverage advantage of the pipe/breaker bar equals 220 pounds.
The equation is: 220 lbs./your weight = distance from pivot (in feet)
So, 220 ft. lbs / 170 lbs = 1.294 feet out along the bar
1.47 feet = approximately 17.5 inches.
Follow so far?
OK, so put a piece of tape on the pipe at 17.5 inches from the socket pivot point, have a helper step FIRMLY on the brake pedal, balance yourself against something while you place one foot directly on top of the tape on the pipe and gently press down with all of your weight until the pipe stops moving. If you need to reposition the socket to get the pipe back up to about 2 o'clock, do so and repeat until the pipe/bar stops moving. Do not "bounce" on the bar - just let your weight settle it. Do not use both feet! Put all of your weight on that one foot that's on that spot on the bar. when the bar stops moving and you're just standing there on it, you'll be at the 220 ft/lbs. point.
That's it. Of course, your weight (and mine) may vary. If you weigh more than 220 lbs, the tape should be less than 12" from the pivot point - if less than 220 lbs. it should be more than 12" out. Do the math and position accordingly. Remember to put the middle of your foot directly over the tape to avoid being in or out. The amount of error here (if done right) is roughly equal to or less than the error in all of our un-calibrated Shade-Tree-Mechanic torque wrenches out there.
gn
Gordon,
Good explanation and a helpful math formula but your figures are a little confusing in that you're using 220 and 250 lbs
In one sentence you're using 220 lbs as your final torque and in another you're using 250 ft lbs.
Use the 250 ft. lbs as it's much safer than 220. High performance applications call for a tighter axle nut than a stock 1600 cc VW. It won't hurt anything and in the long run, will save the splines and bearings.
I've used as much as 300 with absolutely no ill effects.
To be clear, if you're shooting for 250 ft lbs. and you weigh 170 then you'll need 1.47 feet of leverage or, 1.5 feet for even numbers, (this will give you 255 ft lbs)
Good explanation and a helpful math formula but your figures are a little confusing in that you're using 220 and 250 lbs
In one sentence you're using 220 lbs as your final torque and in another you're using 250 ft lbs.
Use the 250 ft. lbs as it's much safer than 220. High performance applications call for a tighter axle nut than a stock 1600 cc VW. It won't hurt anything and in the long run, will save the splines and bearings.
I've used as much as 300 with absolutely no ill effects.
To be clear, if you're shooting for 250 ft lbs. and you weigh 170 then you'll need 1.47 feet of leverage or, 1.5 feet for even numbers, (this will give you 255 ft lbs)
Bill, you can borrow my Torque Meister if you want to come and get it.
It is the tool Larry mentions above.
It multiples the torque x 9 so 30 on the torque wrench is 270 on the nut.
It is very easy to use and you don't have to be concerned about the drum rotating.
It is the tool Larry mentions above.
It multiples the torque x 9 so 30 on the torque wrench is 270 on the nut.
It is very easy to use and you don't have to be concerned about the drum rotating.
...or having to be a math brainiac!
Math "be" fun
It would be easier if the thing multiplied by 10 rather than 9.
My 8 year-old-year granddaughter knows her "times-table" through 12 and some algebra. I would suggest walking or a horse.
So, does that make your 8 year old daughter smarter than Jim?
DEFINITELY!!
I'm only slightly smarter than a rock!
I'm only slightly smarter than a rock!
That's what'cha get for cramming an explanation in between going for an allergy shot, clorinating the pool (die all you little amoebas!) and replacing the exhaust system on my wife's Honda.
I started with the 220 ft. lbs. that Jack mentioned (even though I thought it was a little low) and then saw Larry's post at 250-300 ft. lbs. and thought, "Yeah! THAT looks a lot better!" so I changed my post but didn't catch everything 'cuz I was in a hurry but because of Theron's silly "you can't edit posts after 30 minutes" rule, it stays.
Screw it.....I'm taking the rest of the Summer off to take it easy, get my health back, do some writing and maybe, finally, get my Speedster back on the road (and maybe even get the pan ready for the next one).
See everyone late Fall.
gn
I started with the 220 ft. lbs. that Jack mentioned (even though I thought it was a little low) and then saw Larry's post at 250-300 ft. lbs. and thought, "Yeah! THAT looks a lot better!" so I changed my post but didn't catch everything 'cuz I was in a hurry but because of Theron's silly "you can't edit posts after 30 minutes" rule, it stays.
Screw it.....I'm taking the rest of the Summer off to take it easy, get my health back, do some writing and maybe, finally, get my Speedster back on the road (and maybe even get the pan ready for the next one).
See everyone late Fall.
gn
thanks boys for the info,i juat the good old ir 231 with the socket but this time it let it walk till no more turning, last time i stopped it short. then guess what happened the car after about 300 miles felt rear squirley. i guess you cant over tighten them. bill
For Gordon-get yourself healthy. My wife's cure-all is a couple of Cadillac Margaritas, makes her nose numb. That faint pitter-patter you'll hear is that of the amoebas and aliens scurrying out the door. (the aliens appear after the 4th or 5th Caddy).