Synthetic Motor Oil

Does anyone have any comments on synthetic (Mobil-1 or equivalent) verses carbon-base standard oil in our VW based engines? I know that some people complain of additional leaks with synthetic oil and we all know that VW engines are tough to keep sealed tight. I have also heard that synthetic provides less friction, thus less heat.

Synthetics are the best you can use in both engine and transaxle. AMSOIL has some syn engine oil that are diesel rated (contain anti-scuff and anti-corrosion additives).

I have tested 11 of them in the same engine. I was not pleased with Amsoil, castrol Syntec, or Mobil one.

I had great luck with Valvoline full synthetic, and Royal Purple . The best of all was redline, with Torco coming in second.

When I tested them I did runs on the dyno, and in my personal cars. I noticed that the best for heat dissipation(cooler oil temps) was the Valvoline, as I was able to get rid of my external cooler on my bus engine completely, and still run 30 degrees cooler!

The best for power was Redline, it was actually the only one that freed up any power in the engine on the dyno.

I'm having great success with Royal purple in the 912E. I did the 20,000 mile service on it yesterday (20K since september 2002) and was astonished at my finding after going for 8K with no oil change. The royal purple seems to be the best for fuel economy also, as I picked up 5-6 MPG in the 912 with it.

Those who say that synthetics don't work in an aircooled engine made a mistake by reading a book with a blue cover that needs revision.

Jake,

I bought some Amsoil. I haven't changed from regular oil yet (it's a new rebuilt engine). Should I not use Amsoil? My engine's a stock 1776. When should I change it, I've only got 1000 miles on the engine. Any special way to change it or just do a simple oil change?

Thanks,
David

Jake, which AMSOIL did you test?

If one goes with synthetic can you extend your oil change mileage? For instance, instead of changing the oil at 3000 miles, could you safely drive it 5000 miles?
Ron

George, I tested 3 different viscosities. I know one was their 50 wt, I can't remember exactly what the other 2 were, I can look it up.

I just put 8K on some Royal Purple, and changed the filter twice. I go atleast 5K on synthetics between changes.

One of my road race customers went 4 races without changing it, thats kinda scary

David : You asked about using synthetic on your rebuilt engine. I have read that if using synthetic in a new engine, the rings will not "seat in" properly. You may want to run standard oil for a few thousand miles before you make the switch. I know that new Corvettes come with synthetic from the factory and read an article in a trade magazine about their computer machining aided cross-honeing method of finishing the cylinder bores for proper ring sealing.

Ron : You asked about oil change intervals. I work for a company that produces oil filters for a major synthetic oil company and we have done "field testing" on a dozen various vehicles to make sure our product will last as long as the synthetic oil. It really all depends on the individual engine and how well it is made (part tolerance, etc.). Although we see the oil still meeting the viscosity requirements even after 15,000 miles, most of my associates choose to change oil at 5,000 to 8,000 intervals. Better safe than sorry!

I bought a new 1994 5-speed DOHC Ford Escort GT (Mazda Protege in disguise) and ran Mobil1 10/30 in it. Changed the oil and filter every six months which was about every 15,000 miles (long commute). Gave the car away at 180,000+ miles and it still had good copression and ran like a watch with no smoke out the exhaust pipe. Only other service was spark plugs and air filter elements once a year and it went through one alternator (actually the voltage regulator), several cam belts, a water pump, three cat-back exhaust systems, and one brake job. Of course that's a liquid cooled engine.

(Message Edited 4/24/2003 1:04:01 PM)