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Love the car, had it one week. But. - Im used to 400 hp 400 ft bls sbcs in 4k lb cars. However, ive got 2 of those...

This car. Goal. (which it is far from right now)

High Revving.. A real screamer.
less than a 12 second quarter.
5 speeds.. need to cruise at 90 if i want to
Fuel injection? Maybe.
I want to be able to spin the tires sometimes. (cant now)

Thats it. Am I expecting too much from these vw's? Merchants... who are you, where are you. I need to spend some
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Love the car, had it one week. But. - Im used to 400 hp 400 ft bls sbcs in 4k lb cars. However, ive got 2 of those...

This car. Goal. (which it is far from right now)

High Revving.. A real screamer.
less than a 12 second quarter.
5 speeds.. need to cruise at 90 if i want to
Fuel injection? Maybe.
I want to be able to spin the tires sometimes. (cant now)

Thats it. Am I expecting too much from these vw's? Merchants... who are you, where are you. I need to spend some
I don't know Bruce. I'll bet Brian's car with the 2160 will be exactly what Nic is looking for. Lots of power, and pretty reliable. Apparently, that engine is put together quite conservatively and should be very reliable.

If Nic were to get a 2275 with 86b or c cam, wedgeport heads, and dual 48s, he'd have his screamer wouldn't he?
High Revving - Head cam work balanced and lightened parts
12 sec car - no problem - power to weight is great
5 speeds - I totally agree! Berg
Fuel injection - not neccesary but I heard rave reviews from friends
Spinnig tires - stronger tranny (& CVs if IRS) heavy clutch
A correctly built type 1 motor will give you plenty of power I promiss. You can go the type4 power plant way, but it is more costly. I reccomend a stroker motor (more that 69 on the crank) and properly matched cam headwork and carbs (or injection)everything. Even type1 motors can get to be expensive.

Disc brakes on the front and type 3 rear drums are ample for the weight of your car and you can have an affordable E-brake.

You are not expecting too much. Sounds like you just haven't found the right VW mechanic.
Lots of money? Whats a lot?

Well.. I spent near 2k on the heads alone for my sbc 355 thats going into my white trash mobile - 92 Camaro. In total I probably have 5k in the 355. Thats what it takes to get a heavy car down the track near 12 seconds. (plus the obvious... rearend, suspension etc..) I'm seeing heads for these engines for about the same price for comparable quality. 1k a peice?

Now, if I can get away with spending about 3-4k on a vw engine... and hit say low mid 12's and keep up with those new vettes etc.. I'll go there. Checking disc setups It looks like I could convert to allround discs for about 1200. Engines on say importmotors.com or ebay look to be in that range, but I rarely see dyno sheets anywhere. What can these things do? Whats the highest output motor on this board and how much was it?

How much $$ advantage would I have building my own VW engine vs Turnkey? a lot?

Ill put up more pics of my car today. Yes it has drums.

I just cant handle having a car that looks SO DAMN GOOD but not be able to back it up.
There are others on this site that know more about this than I do, but from my current experience looking to buy a new engine, here is a summary.

A BASIC turnkey engine in the 2275 range will give you about 160hp and cost about $5000.00. I'm guessing that the labour in the build is about $700.00. A long block will run you about $3000.00 and up, depending who does it and how trick it is.

For what it's worth I have found a big name company that will build me a 2275 or 2332 with my choice of parts (.520x294 cam, wedgeport heads, Weber 48 IDF carbs, ceramic coated exhaust, stage II pp, etc.) for $5200.00. That includes everything from exhaust/muffler to flywheel and pp, all engine tin, etc. All I would need to do is bolt it in and connect it up. That even includes powder coated tin and dyno tuning. 176hp, 153 ft pds. Email me if you want more details.

When you start getting really trick with full balancing and hand porting and polishing, etc. that adds money. If you get the work done by one of the top builders on the West Coast, that adds money. Use the best exotic parts, that adds a lot of money. Just ask George.

It is really important to get the build done right, by someone who knows what they are doing, however, even that will not prevent failures. These engines are mechanical, and mechanical things break no matter how well they are built. Also, the more trick it is, and the closer to the bleeding edge, the less life you can expect out of the engine.
Nic,
I do my best not to talk $$$ on these forums, it starts squabbles.
All I can say is that the only limiting factor to the amout of performance we can make is budget.......

Every engine I build is custom, and there are no standards. if you are seriously interested in real power that doesn't break every weekend, we should chat via telephone. email info@aircooledtechnology.com to set up an appointment with me.

Beware, this isn't a Chevy.....You can buy 500HP of Chevy for what these engines cost- honestly.
Jake Raby
Owner, Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com
www.massivetype4.com
Nic,

OK, here goes. It kinda sounds to me that you like the replicar scene but need major HP. Have you looked into,Gasp, the replicar Cobra's. You can pick those those things up used pretty cheap,(Cheep), especially this time of year. I guess the cravat there is insurance, been a number of posts about the problem of getting them insured.

Can't wait to read the hate mail that comes in on this! Fun!

Bruce
i cant remember the formulas... nor do i remeber the websites ive seen them on... but with the weight of these cars.. (1600lbs?) what kind of power is needed to push it down the 1/4 in 12 seconds flat.

Jake, I'll give you a call most likely on tuesday. I did drop the car off at a local shop to have it checked out for any safety concerns since it has only 3k miles and was built in 89. I was getting what sounded like it could be metal to metal brake noise or something from the front right wheel... if it needs repair i will most likely just buy the disc conversions for front and rear and do that. Then look at engine/trans combos in spring. - Its going to suck just looking at this car for most of the winter her in Nebraska. :)

for the comment about the kit scene and cobras. Im not a cobra fan, but I am definately into the kit/replica scene, I have been looking at kits for years but only just recently aquired the job that allows me to afford more than one toy. (I dont like to sell anything) LOL.
New AS21 VW Type 1 case
Scat 86mm flanged crank
Carillo Rods, 5.50-inch
Cima/Mahle 94mm pistons with Total Seal Rings
Engle FK10 cam (.570-inch lift, 310 duration)
CB Street Eliminator heads with 44x37.5 valves (ported & polished)
Scat 1.45 rocker arms
dual Weber 48IDAs with match-ported intake manifolds

All of these parts coupled with a modest 8.7:1 compression will net you abouy 188hp @ 6600rpm.

Don't forget to install Gene Berg front tranny mounts & a rear traction bar. The traction bar alone will give you the "burnout" effect you desire on a 1600cc motor for less than a $100 investment. The motor listed above however will cost slighly under $5k, unless you change to smaller carbs. 48IDAs are costing as much as $1200 these days y'know
Nic, if you want some idea of what is possible there are lots of VW racing sites that have that kind of info. To start, try www.cal-look.com and read the forum. Most of those guys race their cars and are running as fast as 9s in the 1.4, with many in the 10 to 12 range, except VW Paradise that has a VW powered dragster that runs 6's and over 200mph in the 1/4.

Another interesting site is www.vwdvkk.com where some of the members have a detailed listing of their engine's parts, and also show their best time in the 1/4.

Again, though these cars are street driven, I don't think they will see too many miles before needing a re-build. It does show you what is possible however.

Also, I think most here would agree that Jake probably builds the most reliable 'big power' engines. I would go for a Raby T4 in a heart beat if I could afford it!

Glenn, that sounds like George's engine! Except without the really expensive really trick parts. What are you running in your car Glenn?
Hey Ron, that's not the specs to my motor. Those specs are from a DerKleiner Panzer Club member Doug Mishes 67 VW sedan. It's equipped with a 2387cc motor.

My IM Speedster has a modest 1776 motor supplying only 124hp. But in the works is a 2016 with the following goodies:

NOS AS21 case
78mm forged Scat crank
Scat forged 5.6-inch rods
Cima/Mahle 90.5 pistons & cylinders w/ Total Seal & Dykes rings
Sig Erson 1.5 rockers
Berg 30mm oil pump
Street Eliminators w/ 44x37 valves, ported/polished, hemi-cut chambers to 68cc

dual 40mm Kadrons (for that vintage look) but prepped by AJ Sims

Compression is set to a very streetable 7.8:1 compression Of course it has all the little tricks including a NOS FRAM oil filter mounted on the fan shroud ala 356-style.




i think i would go with homemade efi not carbs btw... but those are some really good answers guys. I've been able to look at all of the sites listed above. I will read more on them.. and get back to you all after I figure out somet things. first exactly what I already have in the car, and second... if discs are coming first. Thanks again for all the input...
Yikes, I just plugged a mid 12s ET into the calculator with my porker Speedsters weight with pilot and I now need to get 190 rear wheel HP! My mate has a 2110 turbo EFI bug with 168RWHP, I wonder if he would notice if I swapped my little 14s 1914 with it?
That's going to be some rocket if you can get there.
Me thinks that Speedster isn't going to have driving lights and a luggage rack!
My new normally aspirated 2,387 dyno'd 220 BHP at the flywheel on its second run with pump unleaded premium (9.5 to 1 compression) and my car has a close ratio 901 5-speed with torque-biased LSD.

It should be a low 12 or high 11 second street car. I imagine it will light up the 195/60x15" Michelin MVX4's in all gears but fifth. Car should be delivered late next month or early in December.
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