I just got a temp gauge dip stick and it fits real loose, did I get the wrong one?
Dick
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I just got a temp gauge dip stick and it fits real loose, did I get the wrong one?
Dick
Dick
I bought one for my IM (sold the car, but still have the dip stick temperature gauge), and it fit snug...almost as snug as the stock dip stick. could the tube diameter be different on various motors?
Ron
Ron
Yup........I called Dave up at Mainely by design and, sure enough, there is a variation on dip stick tube diameters (and straightness, too) which is taken care of on the original dip sticks with that nifty spring in the dip-stick design.
Several alternative fixes have been proposed on here for loose dip stick temp gauges: (BTW: Electrical tape won't work at all, so don't even try).
1. If it's REALLY loose, try applying a short sleeve of shrink tube around the dip stick shaft up at the top (the last inch where it fits into the tube) and shrink it on. That may be just enough. There are several thicknesses of shrink tube out there - you may have to try a few to get one that's "right" and provides a snug fit. If that doesn't work and you're tired of messing with it;
2. Using a flat applicator (I used a squared-off 3/4" wide ruler) apply a thin film of my favorite problem solver, clear silicon caulk, around the top of the dip stick shaft at about the thickness you feel it needs to fit snugly. Use the applicator to get the film as uniform as you can around the shaft, then stand it up on the gauge and let it cure (overnight is nice). If you've got a good eye for thickness, it should fit snugly (or at least more than before). If you want to be more of a purist, in place of the clear silicon caulk you can use Permatex BLUE RTV gasket caulk, but you may have to let it cure for 24 hours.
DO NOT put the temp stick in the tube before the RTV has cured!! It'll have a tendency to glue the temp stick into the tube.
Of course, my neighbor said to gently crimp the tube with pliers or vise grips to make it slightly tighter, but I chose to let it stay round and take a more complicated route (and my original stick still fits just fine). What does HE know, anyway?
3. Don't bother doing anything, but use the temp gauge to calibrate your dash gauge and then once you get it calibrated go back to your original dip stick (I'm about ready to do this, now).
Several alternative fixes have been proposed on here for loose dip stick temp gauges: (BTW: Electrical tape won't work at all, so don't even try).
1. If it's REALLY loose, try applying a short sleeve of shrink tube around the dip stick shaft up at the top (the last inch where it fits into the tube) and shrink it on. That may be just enough. There are several thicknesses of shrink tube out there - you may have to try a few to get one that's "right" and provides a snug fit. If that doesn't work and you're tired of messing with it;
2. Using a flat applicator (I used a squared-off 3/4" wide ruler) apply a thin film of my favorite problem solver, clear silicon caulk, around the top of the dip stick shaft at about the thickness you feel it needs to fit snugly. Use the applicator to get the film as uniform as you can around the shaft, then stand it up on the gauge and let it cure (overnight is nice). If you've got a good eye for thickness, it should fit snugly (or at least more than before). If you want to be more of a purist, in place of the clear silicon caulk you can use Permatex BLUE RTV gasket caulk, but you may have to let it cure for 24 hours.
DO NOT put the temp stick in the tube before the RTV has cured!! It'll have a tendency to glue the temp stick into the tube.
Of course, my neighbor said to gently crimp the tube with pliers or vise grips to make it slightly tighter, but I chose to let it stay round and take a more complicated route (and my original stick still fits just fine). What does HE know, anyway?
3. Don't bother doing anything, but use the temp gauge to calibrate your dash gauge and then once you get it calibrated go back to your original dip stick (I'm about ready to do this, now).
Hi Dick,
I had (have) the same problem.
I also contacted them, because I was not sure, if I got the wrong one.
I followed Gordon's advice and put some silicon caulk on it, which improved it a little bit. I am not completely happy so far and I am afraid of losing oil, but I will test it. Anyway, another layer of caulk should do it.
Andreas
I had (have) the same problem.
I also contacted them, because I was not sure, if I got the wrong one.
I followed Gordon's advice and put some silicon caulk on it, which improved it a little bit. I am not completely happy so far and I am afraid of losing oil, but I will test it. Anyway, another layer of caulk should do it.
Andreas
I used/use it to check my temperatures against the gauge in the car and then put the other one back in. I drove over 600 miles with the loose temperature dipstick and never used a drop of oil.
BTW...I thought these engines were notorious for leaking oil??? I did do a fresh top overhaul about 1800 miles ago, but as of yet no leaks at all?
BTW...I thought these engines were notorious for leaking oil??? I did do a fresh top overhaul about 1800 miles ago, but as of yet no leaks at all?
Steve: The "Leak coefficient" is probably directly related to the quality of parts used in the rebuild AND the talent/experience of the guy putting it together.
If you use good parts and have a qualified person put them together (or a less qualified person (like me) who takes his/her time to do it right), chances are they won't leak. I've got around 2,000 miles on my engine and the only minor leak is from the crankshaft pulley end(which I remember as being more-or-less common).
If you use good parts and have a qualified person put them together (or a less qualified person (like me) who takes his/her time to do it right), chances are they won't leak. I've got around 2,000 miles on my engine and the only minor leak is from the crankshaft pulley end(which I remember as being more-or-less common).
I used shrink tubing I had to install it the full length of the upper bushing as it would bunch up if I used a short piece at the top. Seems to work just fine as long as it doesn't fall off. Now what is the proper operating temp my temp was 210 after a lengthy drive with the outside temp about 88? The gauge showed about 1/4 up on the dash.
Dick
Dick
Dick,
Regarding "Correct Oil", you'll ask 6 People and get 6 answeres; just check the answeres in Forum.
As for my car/engine, Sunday morning Elevation 3,300' and climping unp a Twisty Hair Pin streach of Sierra Nevada two lane paved road in 2nd & 3rd Gear Ambient Temp 82 Degrees and Decreasing due to altitude my Oil Temp under load was slight over 200 degrees. I have a 4:12Final Drive Ratio, Mild Cam, Dog House Oil Cooler, Duel Dells, 009 set at 28 Degrees Full Advance, 96 Plate Oil Cooler & Fan and Non-Lean Tune-up. I have a non standard gage package in with analoge oil temp gage. I have checked its accuracy with an Infared Thermometer and its accurate.
Fan Shroud Sealing, Engine Oil, Gearing, Lean/Rich/Total Advance,Fuel and other factors can obviously effect Oil Temp.
In my opnion in my car, Final Drive Gearing i think effects the Oil temp. I beliveve if a went to the 3:83 gearing my oil temp would decrease. When I run the car over 3,500+ the heat is transfered to the oil and I generate Heat at a faster rate then my cooling system can reject.
I'm utiliznig Kendel GT-1 40W Racing Oil and its been the most effective Oil regarding Breakdown and Heat Rejection. Better then Valvoline, Castrol and Penns.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake
Regarding "Correct Oil", you'll ask 6 People and get 6 answeres; just check the answeres in Forum.
As for my car/engine, Sunday morning Elevation 3,300' and climping unp a Twisty Hair Pin streach of Sierra Nevada two lane paved road in 2nd & 3rd Gear Ambient Temp 82 Degrees and Decreasing due to altitude my Oil Temp under load was slight over 200 degrees. I have a 4:12Final Drive Ratio, Mild Cam, Dog House Oil Cooler, Duel Dells, 009 set at 28 Degrees Full Advance, 96 Plate Oil Cooler & Fan and Non-Lean Tune-up. I have a non standard gage package in with analoge oil temp gage. I have checked its accuracy with an Infared Thermometer and its accurate.
Fan Shroud Sealing, Engine Oil, Gearing, Lean/Rich/Total Advance,Fuel and other factors can obviously effect Oil Temp.
In my opnion in my car, Final Drive Gearing i think effects the Oil temp. I beliveve if a went to the 3:83 gearing my oil temp would decrease. When I run the car over 3,500+ the heat is transfered to the oil and I generate Heat at a faster rate then my cooling system can reject.
I'm utiliznig Kendel GT-1 40W Racing Oil and its been the most effective Oil regarding Breakdown and Heat Rejection. Better then Valvoline, Castrol and Penns.
Good Luck,
Jack Blake