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I'm considering Tenax fasteners and the more I research them the more questions I have.  There are chrome plated and nickel plated and they look very similar.  There are smooth head and one with a dot on the head.  There are also a way cheaper version that look like Tenax, but are not.

This link is to the chrome with the dot on top style:

 

This link is to the chrome with the smooth top:

 

This link is to a nickel plated version with the dot on top.  They are nickle plated, but cheaper than the chrome versions above.

 

Then there is this non Tenax, nickel plated, way way cheaper version from a marine supply shop.

 

Here are the full links to all of the above:

http://eagleday.com/tefaforpo.html  (Teby bought his here)

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131217...id=p3984.m1423.l2649  (good price for a set of 40, nickel but they look good)

 

http://www.sailrite.com/easear..._a=Type%3APull-It-Up  (marine supply non Tenax, nickel, very good price)

 

 

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Originally Posted by crhemi (Bill):

       

If it's a car you're flipping, I'd say go the cheaper version (still better then snaps) 


       

Flipping these cars is a hobby for me.  I agree with you that the cheaper ones are better than snaps, but as long as I am able to make a profit while I'm doing it, I really prefer to use the better quality parts.  That just makes them easier to sell and the new owners happy campers.

Troy:

 

IIRC, (it's been a while) the Chrome version is chrome plated over nickel plating, so you get a double plating and it will not rust - the nickel plating by itself is relatively porous and gets 'sealed' by the chrome over-plate (chrome being slightly denser, too).  I have double chrome over double nickel on my Nerf bars and they look as good today as when I brought them home from the plater in 1998 - even though the car has lived within 100 yards of brackish/salty water.

 

The only Tenax I've ever seen on a Porsche is the knurled, button-topped version.  I've seen some of the smooth versions on older (usually wooden) boats, but those are few and far between.

 

Don't forget Tom's comment about the tiny wrench you'll need to install the caps.  Looks like a miniature, pinned spanner and is crucial to get the caps on.

Originally Posted by Sacto Mitch . . . . 2013 VS:

       

 

OK, I'll play dufus's advocate and ask, "What's so bad about snaps?"

 

Granted, I keep the full tonneau on most of the time and seldom put the top up, but I haven't had any problems with the snaps.

 

Yet.

 

Is there another rude awakening in my future?

 

 


       

Mitch.  What's so bad about a Miata?  Nothing really.  We drive these cars because they are fun.   Part of that fun is the way they drive, but a big part is also how they look, so we do things to them to make them look better.  There isn't anything wrong with snaps and they look fine and get the job done.
There's your answer
Originally Posted by Troy Sloan:
Originally Posted by crhemi (Bill):

       

If it's a car you're flipping, I'd say go the cheaper version (still better then snaps) 


       

Flipping these cars is a hobby for me.  I agree with you that the cheaper ones are better than snaps, but as long as I am able to make a profit while I'm doing it, I really prefer to use the better quality parts.  That just makes them easier to sell and the new owners happy campers.

 

 

Geesh Troy, your car's so dialed in that all you've got to worry about is the fasteners?

 

Some of us can only dream.

 

Funny you should mention Miatas, though. My old '93 used real Tenax fasteners for the tonneau - on the dash, at least. That was another detail influenced by Bob Hall, the 'godfather of the Miata'.

 

Hall was a somewhat eccentric motoring journalist who convinced the future chairman of Mazda that they should build an entry level rear wheel drive roadster when the rest of the industry had turned its back on such cars. Mazda hired Hall - who had no engineering experience - to be part of the Miata design team.

 

Hall was a rabid car nut, whose dad had owned a bunch of British sports cars when Hall was growing up. He hounded the team to stay true to old school sports car roots. For an entry level car, a detail like real Tenax fasteners was an extravagance - one that 99.9 per cent of Miata owners probably never noticed.

 

BTW, found this site that has a variety of the German Tenax fasteners - which are advertised as chrome-plated brass, and priced for the man who has everything.

 

http://eagleday.com/tefage.html

 

 

 

 

Tenax come in English and German and they are slightly different sizes. German ones are slightly larger. I got mine for my top from Carey at SE. Carey uses the English chrome ones. I try to buy as much as possible from him as he is fast, competitively priced, and I'd rather they made the profit as I know them.

 

I haven't installed them yet but purchased Airkewld brakes (all 4 wheels) through Carey, among other small parts over the years. Even though I bought my Spyder from Vintage Spyders, I get the best service from the Hines.

I like the look of the Tenax fasteners and have just asked my trimmer to fit them to my Speedsters in the re - paint and re- trim.

 

not long now and it will be finished. A new engine, paint and trim.

 

A whole new car..

 

Thanks Troy for the lead.

 

I have the other fastener's on my aluminium Cobra and the pull/lift to get them off has marked the body.

 

You can see the pins here and slight marking needs to be polished out.

 

 

 

 

 

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Last edited by BMK - Bernie cruising in Australia
Originally Posted by Lfepardo - Seattle, WA, 2013 VS:

Million thanks Troy.  Looks awesome.

 

ps-  did you do your soft top too?  I imagine doing both probably took some time. 

 

cheers

OH MY GOD!!!  That is so funny!  I could easily just tell you guys that I did the soft top too, but here is the truth.  I was so focused on ordering the exact number required to do the 1/4 tonneau and the full tonneau that I totally forgot about the convertible top, because I never put it up.   I'll be placing an order for 15 more of them.

It took me less than two hours to replace the snaps and it's very easy if you have the right tools.  I ordered a #2 hole punch and a rubber block from Sailrite http://www.sailrite.com/  They also sell Tenax, but they don't sell the chrome Tenax fasteners, only the nickle plated.  Watch this video.  Use a drill to drill out the old snaps from the top and tonneau.

And yes, it's not cheap, but they are VERY cool.

 

 

 

 

Last edited by Troy Sloan

i used chrome english tenax's on mine.  they work great.  shipping was killer though.  i can't remember what i paid exactly for them, but i remember thinking 'ouch' when it was all said and done.

 

you don't need a special hole punch either.  i used side cutters and cut two small triangles with the material folded over.  made a tiny diamond shape and left a lot of material for the backing plate to secure to.

 

super fast to install too.

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