I did not order the top with the third latch attached. I just so happen to have a couple extra latches that are still attached to the POS bow on my old top, I'll use one of those.
Thanks for the heads up Gordon.
Hey Mickey - want to sell the other one? i picked up one from the other Paul, but it doesn't match the stock ones.
Mickey from Ann Arbor (you out from under the snow yet?) wrote: "One reason I have avoided a center latch is that it would not be in the middle."
OK....so what? If it's off center by a couple of inches does that effect functionality? Besides, 95% of the time the top won't be up, and the rear view mirror is always in the way, anyway!!
I started with a spring loaded curtain rod to help keep the header center in place, al la, "Butch". Worked OK, but was a PITA to deal with. I now have 12,000 trailer miles with the top up at 75-85mph and it never budges. Just sits there, regardless of traffic around it (especially BIG trucks). I'm happy with an off-center latch. Matches the driver and the rest of the car......
OK....so what? If it's off center by a couple of inches does that effect functionality? Besides, 95% of the time the top won't be up, and the rear view mirror is always in the way, anyway!!
I started with a spring loaded curtain rod to help keep the header center in place, al la, "Butch". Worked OK, but was a PITA to deal with. I now have 12,000 trailer miles with the top up at 75-85mph and it never budges. Just sits there, regardless of traffic around it (especially BIG trucks). I'm happy with an off-center latch. Matches the driver and the rest of the car......
Paul,
I'll take a couple of pics of it and post them and if you still want it, it's yours, just pay shipping.
I can't help but think there will be issues with installing the top. Just about everything I've put on this car has had some sort of fitment problem. That said I know the answer is always here somewhere.
I'll take a couple of pics of it and post them and if you still want it, it's yours, just pay shipping.
I can't help but think there will be issues with installing the top. Just about everything I've put on this car has had some sort of fitment problem. That said I know the answer is always here somewhere.
Gordon,
We haven't had snow for a few days.
I just got back from a quick trip to Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon.
I thought Nevada and Arizona would be a lot warmer than Michigan. But it was unusually cold there. There was even a brief snow storm at the Grand Canyon.
I got to drive about 100 yards on Route 66 when I pulled off the freeway to buy gas.
Regarding the center latch, I just like the idea of things being symmetrical. As an architect, I like visual order.
We haven't had snow for a few days.
I just got back from a quick trip to Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon.
I thought Nevada and Arizona would be a lot warmer than Michigan. But it was unusually cold there. There was even a brief snow storm at the Grand Canyon.
I got to drive about 100 yards on Route 66 when I pulled off the freeway to buy gas.
Regarding the center latch, I just like the idea of things being symmetrical. As an architect, I like visual order.
Paul,
Sorry to hear the latch didn't work out.
Michael,
Sounds like that Architecture thing could be a real pain in the ass.
Sorry to hear the latch didn't work out.
Michael,
Sounds like that Architecture thing could be a real pain in the ass.
Paul,
I must have misinterpruted your post about the "selling the other one". You meant the latch, not the top, (duh). Anyway, you can see a pic in the first post, if it's what you need it's yours.
I must have misinterpruted your post about the "selling the other one". You meant the latch, not the top, (duh). Anyway, you can see a pic in the first post, if it's what you need it's yours.
The new top arrived today so I'll be getting on that project tomorrow or thursday. I have to pick up some black snaps in the morning and it's supposed to be a little warmer which will make it easier.
Gordon,
I read your post about the top install and I just want to make sure I hear this correctly.
Start with the rear center snap.
Pull the top over the windsheild frame taught,(I'm assuming with the windsheild header bow latched to the windsheild) and duct tape it.
Go inside the car and mark with a line the back edge of the windsheild header bow is.
Attach the top to the windsheild bow and trim excess material (leaving enough to roll over the edge of the windsheild bow and into the channel). and let it dry.
Then apply adhesive to the rest of the material and push into the the channel.
Attach to windsheild bow with material fastened and allow to dry.
Then finish the rest of the rear snaps.
Is that correct?
The windsheild bow Kirk sent is like a hard rubber. It's nice because it has integrity but allows some flexability, but I don't think it can be painted.
This thing set me back $500 so I don't want to F it up.
Thanks,
Gordon,
I read your post about the top install and I just want to make sure I hear this correctly.
Start with the rear center snap.
Pull the top over the windsheild frame taught,(I'm assuming with the windsheild header bow latched to the windsheild) and duct tape it.
Go inside the car and mark with a line the back edge of the windsheild header bow is.
Attach the top to the windsheild bow and trim excess material (leaving enough to roll over the edge of the windsheild bow and into the channel). and let it dry.
Then apply adhesive to the rest of the material and push into the the channel.
Attach to windsheild bow with material fastened and allow to dry.
Then finish the rest of the rear snaps.
Is that correct?
The windsheild bow Kirk sent is like a hard rubber. It's nice because it has integrity but allows some flexability, but I don't think it can be painted.
This thing set me back $500 so I don't want to F it up.
Thanks,
Gordon,
After reading your instructions AND the CMC instructions I think I've got it with regard to the top install.
I picked us some black snaps this morning. I think they'll give the top a little more "original" look being that the original didn't have snaps running around them, they were attached by a channel and latches if I recall correctly. Anyway, the shiney things on my car the better.
After reading your instructions AND the CMC instructions I think I've got it with regard to the top install.
I picked us some black snaps this morning. I think they'll give the top a little more "original" look being that the original didn't have snaps running around them, they were attached by a channel and latches if I recall correctly. Anyway, the shiney things on my car the better.
Mick:
Sounds like you've got a good handle on it.
Full steam ahead!
gn
Sounds like you've got a good handle on it.
Full steam ahead!
gn
Can someone send me those instructions.
I registered on that sight mentioned above (days ago) and I have not recieved an email to join...
I registered on that sight mentioned above (days ago) and I have not recieved an email to join...
Bill:
Send me an email with your desired username and password and I'll set you up.
gn
Send me an email with your desired username and password and I'll set you up.
gn
Got the snaps on the top and that's about as far as I got before the rain came. I marked and dry fitted the top to the front bow but I get the feeling the fabric is gonna "bunch" trying to fit into the channel. It there some sort of trick to this or is it one of those things that you just have to sort out as you go?
Gordon (or anyone),
How many coats of the adhesive (DAP Green Can) do you have to put on? I did a coat the other day, following instructions on the can, and it didn't stick at all! It's supposed to get tacky to the touch, right? It didn't so I did another coat tonight and after 40 mins it was still wet(ish) but not tacky. I'll bet home in a couple hours which will put the time at 4 hours since application, can I just brush on one more light coat and clamp the top to the bow?
The can said more than one application may be needed. I'm just not sure how many coats I should put on and/or if it'll ruin it if I put too many on.
How many coats of the adhesive (DAP Green Can) do you have to put on? I did a coat the other day, following instructions on the can, and it didn't stick at all! It's supposed to get tacky to the touch, right? It didn't so I did another coat tonight and after 40 mins it was still wet(ish) but not tacky. I'll bet home in a couple hours which will put the time at 4 hours since application, can I just brush on one more light coat and clamp the top to the bow?
The can said more than one application may be needed. I'm just not sure how many coats I should put on and/or if it'll ruin it if I put too many on.
If it's the DAP stuff in the green-ish can, then you'll need a light coat on BOTH the header and the inside of the top material (the side that touches the header).
It doesn't have to be heavy - a light coat on both parts will do. When they have sat for 10-15 minutes they should be lightly tacky (the time will vary depending on temperature and amount of humidity in the air). If you wait too long, it'll dry out and the finish will go dull and there won't be any stickiness to it.
OK, so when they're both tacky, just put them together and hold them in place and they'll set up in an hour or so (I did mine in the evening and just let it sit overnight).
Once the cloth material is pressed into the windshield frame channel on the header (the material should have some glue on it to make it stick in the channel), I wrapped some spacer material in wax paper, placed it in the channel and then latched the header on to hold everything in place and left it overnight.
OK?
gn
It doesn't have to be heavy - a light coat on both parts will do. When they have sat for 10-15 minutes they should be lightly tacky (the time will vary depending on temperature and amount of humidity in the air). If you wait too long, it'll dry out and the finish will go dull and there won't be any stickiness to it.
OK, so when they're both tacky, just put them together and hold them in place and they'll set up in an hour or so (I did mine in the evening and just let it sit overnight).
Once the cloth material is pressed into the windshield frame channel on the header (the material should have some glue on it to make it stick in the channel), I wrapped some spacer material in wax paper, placed it in the channel and then latched the header on to hold everything in place and left it overnight.
OK?
gn
Thanks Gordon! I don't have my car at home, just the top. I was going to use a bunch of clips to keep it in place. I guess if it doesn't stick well inside the channel I can just do a light coat on the material and do the wax paper/clip it down method and let it sit for the day.
Mickey, I glue the inside of the header bow with 3M contact cement, let it set up until tacky.
Set the top flap into the header groove (be sure not to cover the bottom of the header groove with the top material as you'll need a ard surface for the weather strip to adhere to) temp. secure it with a piece of hose stuffed into the bow groove until dry. ~Alan
Set the top flap into the header groove (be sure not to cover the bottom of the header groove with the top material as you'll need a ard surface for the weather strip to adhere to) temp. secure it with a piece of hose stuffed into the bow groove until dry. ~Alan
Hey! the hose idea is great! I had some 1/2" "caulk saver" stuff laying around and used that. It's a closed-cell-foam stuff, shaped like a rope, that you can stuff into big gaps around house doors and windows and then caulk over it to you don't need tubes and tubes of caulk.
I needed something, and it was the first thing I saw in the shop - funny how that usually seems to be the case.
gn
I needed something, and it was the first thing I saw in the shop - funny how that usually seems to be the case.
gn
Thanks guys.
It was late when I got Alans post so I used the air hose from my compressor. That and some clamps seemed to do the trick. I put the top on this morning and I'll let it sit for a day or two. I still have to attach the snaps to the front bow for the annoying tabs that hang toward the front and install the center latch.
It was late when I got Alans post so I used the air hose from my compressor. That and some clamps seemed to do the trick. I put the top on this morning and I'll let it sit for a day or two. I still have to attach the snaps to the front bow for the annoying tabs that hang toward the front and install the center latch.
I did "third latch" in search and got nuttin. Are there instructions somewhere?
Third latch instructions? Anyone? Bueller?
And does anyone have any pics in their file? I recall reading on here somewhere that is was a pretty easy install that only takes a few minutes but I can't find the thread. I'd like to get it on before Carlisle especially if I have to drive on the PA Turnpike with the top up. At 70mph with the top up and the windows out I can't literally see the bow pulling up in the middle right over the mirror post. Yikes!!!!!
And does anyone have any pics in their file? I recall reading on here somewhere that is was a pretty easy install that only takes a few minutes but I can't find the thread. I'd like to get it on before Carlisle especially if I have to drive on the PA Turnpike with the top up. At 70mph with the top up and the windows out I can't literally see the bow pulling up in the middle right over the mirror post. Yikes!!!!!
I poked around using "search + convertible top" and found a few threads re: latches. (Maybe e-mail some of the posters for more info?)
https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=14561
https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=2553
Crazy afterthought: Maybe Dusty Johnson can rig up a small leather restraint tab to mate with a small tonneau snap/quarter turn.
https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=14561
https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=2553
Crazy afterthought: Maybe Dusty Johnson can rig up a small leather restraint tab to mate with a small tonneau snap/quarter turn.
Thanks Scott. I think I'll wait til Carlisle and take a look at some that are already done. I do better when I have a visual. Speaking of that - even after reading Gordons very well informative and well written top installation instructions I still didn't get it quite right. So I'll have to be removing the material to tighten it on the header again. It's not biggie because it'll allow me to install the third latch with a little more ease. As for the strap idea - I don't know, I think the snugger the better. A third latch is gonna be alot more tight than a retaining strap. After my episode with the other top coming off while driving I'm a little skiddish and want to make sure that sucker ain't movin unless I SAY it's movin.
Gordon,
You mention in that article that the header you were working with was fiberglass. The one Vintage sent me is made of hard rubber. It's very nice and I like the fact that it gives a bit, but I think thats what making it so flimsy in the middle as well. Does anyone have the header I'm talking about?
Gordon,
You mention in that article that the header you were working with was fiberglass. The one Vintage sent me is made of hard rubber. It's very nice and I like the fact that it gives a bit, but I think thats what making it so flimsy in the middle as well. Does anyone have the header I'm talking about?
Mickey-good choice on your fix. I'm like you; I like to see an actual installation or picture, anything...good luck!