Some states don't permit line locks for and e'brake.
i bought two VW rabbit ebrake cables to mount my umbrella brake. I made the mount / hardware, and was just finishing making the handle (from raw steel / welding / grinding) when my lincoln crapped out. :(
so - i have to use the stock ebarke for now.
so - i have to use the stock ebarke for now.
OK, here I go about the line-lock again. Aesthetics count, and the aesthetics of the VW handbrake are non-existant. While everything else about the Speedster reproduction on VW gear works out OK, this one just bites it, as far as I am concerned. Sounds like Mickey is in the same boat. I'd say do the line-lock: cheap and easy. fact is, I almost never use it, just park the car in gear and call the job done. My experience w/ MD state inspection was that the car is listed as a Street Rod, and so no inspection is needed, believe it or not. Chances are good that the line-lock would not pass muster here in MD, but I have never tried to find out. The deal is, since it uses the same hydraulic system as the foot brake, it can't be called an E-brake -- just a parking brake. And it will work that way sure enough. If the one and only hydraulic system fails, somehow, the line-lock is not going to stop you like a cable operated device would. Mick: you're going for "the look", so PLEASE do not mount up that VW handle square in the middle for all to see.
$0.02 worth.
$0.02 worth.
Kelly, remember the parking lot at Savage Mill?
My last e-brake configuration didn't hold my fly-weight car from rolling into the curb there (for everyone else's benefit, the parking lot is tiered, and there's about a five-percent grade if you nose in) and I wound up bloodying my car's nose.
Anybody who parks on a hill and only uses their gearbox to hold the car is begging for trouble. Either some nit-wit is going to come along and bump your shifter, or you're not going to be fast enough with the gas-clutch-brake pedal dance at some point.
It's cheap insurance, whatever the brake handle looks like.
Hell, it could be a brick in front of the tire ... I'm just sayin' ...
My last e-brake configuration didn't hold my fly-weight car from rolling into the curb there (for everyone else's benefit, the parking lot is tiered, and there's about a five-percent grade if you nose in) and I wound up bloodying my car's nose.
Anybody who parks on a hill and only uses their gearbox to hold the car is begging for trouble. Either some nit-wit is going to come along and bump your shifter, or you're not going to be fast enough with the gas-clutch-brake pedal dance at some point.
It's cheap insurance, whatever the brake handle looks like.
Hell, it could be a brick in front of the tire ... I'm just sayin' ...
I hear that a coiled up 25 foot long 1/2 in. nylon rope can work to block the tire. Know where I can get one of those?
You got me, Kelly. Good one.
TC, you still posting those pictures of your progress to photobucket?
TC, you still posting those pictures of your progress to photobucket?
Not that it matters much, but I'm moving the shifter back about ten inches and up about eight, and attaching it to an arm rest device. That will place it perfectly. With a drastically shortened Gene Berg shifter and simple ball I hope to be able to shift the car by simple wrist movements.
The e-brake is being moved to where the shifter would be, the spine mount tilted perpendicular to stand the shortened e-brake handle on end. The mount is drilled and secured with drilled and riveted aluminum triangle gussets. The e-brakes is drilled and looks like an old STEN machine gun. With the brake standing up-right like a staging brake, the brake release button painted in anodized red and the electric Line-Lock attached to the handle near the tip, I'm kinda hoping that it'll have a cool "all business" look to the entire set-up plus all four brakes will lock up. Two rears mechanically, two fronts electrically.
Way more fun than stock Beetle, it'll make setting the e-brake kind of an adventure . . .
The MGB also has a neat chromed break-away set-up that sits against, and bolts to the side of the tunnel. Fits just forward of the edge of the passenger seat and looks sharp. Not Porsche, but definitely not VW. Might be worth looking at. Even the 914 has something kinda cool, and really weird, it would sit on the inside door sill on the Speedster. VERY GT40 looking if you drilled it out and painted it dull aluminum. Anyway, lots of alternatives to the silly 'ol umbrella rig, and Porsche certainly would have tried them all given the chance.
I mean why build a near race car with your Grandmother's Buick under-dash e-brake in it . . . ?
The e-brake is being moved to where the shifter would be, the spine mount tilted perpendicular to stand the shortened e-brake handle on end. The mount is drilled and secured with drilled and riveted aluminum triangle gussets. The e-brakes is drilled and looks like an old STEN machine gun. With the brake standing up-right like a staging brake, the brake release button painted in anodized red and the electric Line-Lock attached to the handle near the tip, I'm kinda hoping that it'll have a cool "all business" look to the entire set-up plus all four brakes will lock up. Two rears mechanically, two fronts electrically.
Way more fun than stock Beetle, it'll make setting the e-brake kind of an adventure . . .
The MGB also has a neat chromed break-away set-up that sits against, and bolts to the side of the tunnel. Fits just forward of the edge of the passenger seat and looks sharp. Not Porsche, but definitely not VW. Might be worth looking at. Even the 914 has something kinda cool, and really weird, it would sit on the inside door sill on the Speedster. VERY GT40 looking if you drilled it out and painted it dull aluminum. Anyway, lots of alternatives to the silly 'ol umbrella rig, and Porsche certainly would have tried them all given the chance.
I mean why build a near race car with your Grandmother's Buick under-dash e-brake in it . . . ?
I kinda fell behind.
I just got done unloading the new engine!!!! It looks AWESOME! So there it sits inside my buddies shop for the next 6 days. It's going to be a long week. Fortunately I have a race this weekend to keep me busy so at least the weekend will fly by, no pun intended.
TC,
I'm intrigued with the 914 ebrake idea. I had a 1973 914 years ago and vaguely remember the ebrake placement being left of the drivers seat. How would the cable set up work? I really want to get rid of the middle placement, but at what cost is time and materials? Do you have any recommendations as to where I might find drawings od pics?
TC,
I'm intrigued with the 914 ebrake idea. I had a 1973 914 years ago and vaguely remember the ebrake placement being left of the drivers seat. How would the cable set up work? I really want to get rid of the middle placement, but at what cost is time and materials? Do you have any recommendations as to where I might find drawings od pics?
For all things 914, just hit this forum:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php
They're WAY cooler and much more knowledgeable the we could ever be.
Just post that you want to relocate your e-brake (maybe don't mention that it's being "relocated" out of a 914 and into a Beetle pan) and you were wondering if anyone had close up photos of the assembly top and bottom, plus a shot or two of the manner in which it routed to the wheels, so that you could discern the problems involved in the relocation.
The 914 has rear discs, but the manner in which the cables connect may be similar. Since the Speedster pan is already shortened, you may be able to use stock length Beetle cables and route them to the 914 handle with ease. Possible use the 914 cables at the e-brake end and the VW cable ends at the rear brakes and fasten cable connectors between. Maybe even make up a prototype and have a boat yard make up the two finished ones. I'm right down the road from Plymouth Harbor and we make use of the boat builders all of the time. They used to cut flywheels for us on one big silly machine or another. They always forgot to step cut the face AND the shoulder at the same time/to the same depth, but the price was perfect!
I have a gutted 914 out back that I can look at. No e-brake assembly, but there might be the remnants of the routing tubes and such. If there is anything left to photograph for you, I will.
LOTS of possibilities, you just need to eye-ball all of the bits and pieces to see how they're gonna connect up.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php
They're WAY cooler and much more knowledgeable the we could ever be.
Just post that you want to relocate your e-brake (maybe don't mention that it's being "relocated" out of a 914 and into a Beetle pan) and you were wondering if anyone had close up photos of the assembly top and bottom, plus a shot or two of the manner in which it routed to the wheels, so that you could discern the problems involved in the relocation.
The 914 has rear discs, but the manner in which the cables connect may be similar. Since the Speedster pan is already shortened, you may be able to use stock length Beetle cables and route them to the 914 handle with ease. Possible use the 914 cables at the e-brake end and the VW cable ends at the rear brakes and fasten cable connectors between. Maybe even make up a prototype and have a boat yard make up the two finished ones. I'm right down the road from Plymouth Harbor and we make use of the boat builders all of the time. They used to cut flywheels for us on one big silly machine or another. They always forgot to step cut the face AND the shoulder at the same time/to the same depth, but the price was perfect!
I have a gutted 914 out back that I can look at. No e-brake assembly, but there might be the remnants of the routing tubes and such. If there is anything left to photograph for you, I will.
LOTS of possibilities, you just need to eye-ball all of the bits and pieces to see how they're gonna connect up.
Mickey, I'll be through Wilmington in the Hoopty tomorrow (Wednesday). You can take my cables, which are 914 replacements, right out of my car.
Easy-peasy. They're only zipped in right now, and not serving a purpose.
Easy-peasy. They're only zipped in right now, and not serving a purpose.
Ya know I was just thinking, (ouch! it hurts) that m buddy just picked up a 914/6 a few months ago. I could just go see his set up. He's the guy that restores the vintage stuff (porsches, lotus', ect...) I bet he would have some insight.
Mark my word, I WILL eliminate that ebrake handle in the middle of my car if it's the last thing I do!!!! (which it probably will be, just before the interior and paint)
Cory, Thanks for the offer but it may be a little premature. The ebrake project will be this winter. This week I've got a race to get ready for, a 5 yr old in her first week of Kindergarten, and there was something else.......OH YEAH, I'VE GOT TO PUT MY SWEET-ASS NEW ENGINE IN!!!!!! Not that I'm excited or anything.
Mark my word, I WILL eliminate that ebrake handle in the middle of my car if it's the last thing I do!!!! (which it probably will be, just before the interior and paint)
Cory, Thanks for the offer but it may be a little premature. The ebrake project will be this winter. This week I've got a race to get ready for, a 5 yr old in her first week of Kindergarten, and there was something else.......OH YEAH, I'VE GOT TO PUT MY SWEET-ASS NEW ENGINE IN!!!!!! Not that I'm excited or anything.
Mickey - slap some Ferrari stickers on that engine and you'll be in pig heaven!! Good luck for this week's activities (Kindergarten, Kart race, bad-ass engine install)!!
Mickey, your lack of enthusiasm is surprising. Why, I'll bet you're even going to work today. Get your priorities straight, man!!!!! Get that engine in there and DRIVE!!!!!
My wrench buddy has been on vaca all this week so I have to wait until Monday to get started on the engine thing.
Got some good news yesterday. Cip1 FINALLY has the front brake kits back in stock. This means now I can do the front wide 5's! I've been drivnig around with red painted 4 bolts on the front and the silver wide 5's in the back, looks "beater". I kinda like it. Anyway, thanks to Greg B's generousity I now have the correct spindles for the front and in a week I'll have the brake kit. Hopefully it'll work out that just as I finish up reinforcing the chassis, putting the new engine and trans in, and a few other little odds and ends, the brake kit will be next in line. Then it's new skinz, alignment and I'm done!!!!
Well, not done done, but done with the important stuff. The stuff that'll put a big F'n smile on my face!
I have to thank all of you that have donated to the cause so far - Greg B for the spindles, Terry N for the rear lenses, and Cory for the mirror. And of course, all who have contributed their knowledge and support to this point. Next week is almost here so I'm sure I'll have a ton of posts. I'm hoping more of the "here's what I did today" posts as opposed to the "this f'n part won't fit" or "I'm screwed" posts.
Got some good news yesterday. Cip1 FINALLY has the front brake kits back in stock. This means now I can do the front wide 5's! I've been drivnig around with red painted 4 bolts on the front and the silver wide 5's in the back, looks "beater". I kinda like it. Anyway, thanks to Greg B's generousity I now have the correct spindles for the front and in a week I'll have the brake kit. Hopefully it'll work out that just as I finish up reinforcing the chassis, putting the new engine and trans in, and a few other little odds and ends, the brake kit will be next in line. Then it's new skinz, alignment and I'm done!!!!
Well, not done done, but done with the important stuff. The stuff that'll put a big F'n smile on my face!
I have to thank all of you that have donated to the cause so far - Greg B for the spindles, Terry N for the rear lenses, and Cory for the mirror. And of course, all who have contributed their knowledge and support to this point. Next week is almost here so I'm sure I'll have a ton of posts. I'm hoping more of the "here's what I did today" posts as opposed to the "this f'n part won't fit" or "I'm screwed" posts.
How about a peek at what Mickey's been up to?
I shot these on my way up to DeWalt's place Wednesday night:
I shot these on my way up to DeWalt's place Wednesday night:
Attachments
Images (3)
What wonderfully, almost haunting pictures ! !
That car looks like it's just waiting to kick somebody's a$$. Nice work, Mickey. I really like the Carrera bumpers.
Thanks, TC. I used a timed exposure and no flash.
Cory,
That's VERY intriguing . . .
The photographs DO give more the impression that we're waiting for something to occur, as though they are a continuous still frame movie clip rather than a single quick snap shot.
It's honestly amazing to me that time, actual passing time, can be somehow conveyed in a single still photograph. And one without any really perceptible movement in it.
No moving clouds, no passings birds. and yet there's a definite sense of more happening than the single simple snap of a camera aperture.
I'm lacking for the correct words here . . . but surprised by what I see here.
That's VERY intriguing . . .
The photographs DO give more the impression that we're waiting for something to occur, as though they are a continuous still frame movie clip rather than a single quick snap shot.
It's honestly amazing to me that time, actual passing time, can be somehow conveyed in a single still photograph. And one without any really perceptible movement in it.
No moving clouds, no passings birds. and yet there's a definite sense of more happening than the single simple snap of a camera aperture.
I'm lacking for the correct words here . . . but surprised by what I see here.
Looking great....need to lower the rear a little; the wide five conversion sure makes it look great....
Cory,
Now I can't help but think of my car as a delinquent! LOL
The ride height still needs to get sorted out between reloctaing shock mounts, making sure the body is evenly attached on both sides of the frame, and getting the wide 5's up front and adjusting the front beam. I'm probably going to end up with a little higher ride height then I had, I think it gives it a little more "old skool racer" look. And the new tires will be about an inch smaller in diameter so we'll have to see where it all is when everthing is in place.
Tomorrow is the start of new engine install ect... My front brakes should be here thursday, which is a relief. Hopefully by weeks end I'll be in pretty good shape.
I'm really looking forward to being able to focus solely on my car now. I ran my last kart race of the year today(until December at VIR). My head has not been anywhere but in my speedster and pretty much everything else has been a distraction. I showed up at the track this morning without really touching my kart since the last race. Other than bleeding the brakes and putting on a few replacement parts I hadn't done anything, not even started it! It bit me in the ass too. I couldn't get out for either practice session because I wasn't getting fuel into the carb. After putting on a new fuel pump & fuel filter, and giving the carb a good cleaning, it finally fired up. Sweet! I get to grid, go out for the warm up lap, get the engine and tires warmed up and $hit!!!!! The first lap the rpm's start dropping rapidly. I barely made it to the pits before it quit. It turns out I neglected to tighten one of the screw clamps on my radiator hose and lost all the water. I'm hoping it's just a blown head gasket and I didn't stick the piston. I just rolled the kart into my garage and put the cover on it. I'm not even going to look at it until I get my car done. Trying to have too much fun with too many toys. I guess I'm just greedy.
I promise pics will be coming this week. None to the artistic levels of the Cory, but at least you can all start to see some real progress now.
Now I can't help but think of my car as a delinquent! LOL
The ride height still needs to get sorted out between reloctaing shock mounts, making sure the body is evenly attached on both sides of the frame, and getting the wide 5's up front and adjusting the front beam. I'm probably going to end up with a little higher ride height then I had, I think it gives it a little more "old skool racer" look. And the new tires will be about an inch smaller in diameter so we'll have to see where it all is when everthing is in place.
Tomorrow is the start of new engine install ect... My front brakes should be here thursday, which is a relief. Hopefully by weeks end I'll be in pretty good shape.
I'm really looking forward to being able to focus solely on my car now. I ran my last kart race of the year today(until December at VIR). My head has not been anywhere but in my speedster and pretty much everything else has been a distraction. I showed up at the track this morning without really touching my kart since the last race. Other than bleeding the brakes and putting on a few replacement parts I hadn't done anything, not even started it! It bit me in the ass too. I couldn't get out for either practice session because I wasn't getting fuel into the carb. After putting on a new fuel pump & fuel filter, and giving the carb a good cleaning, it finally fired up. Sweet! I get to grid, go out for the warm up lap, get the engine and tires warmed up and $hit!!!!! The first lap the rpm's start dropping rapidly. I barely made it to the pits before it quit. It turns out I neglected to tighten one of the screw clamps on my radiator hose and lost all the water. I'm hoping it's just a blown head gasket and I didn't stick the piston. I just rolled the kart into my garage and put the cover on it. I'm not even going to look at it until I get my car done. Trying to have too much fun with too many toys. I guess I'm just greedy.
I promise pics will be coming this week. None to the artistic levels of the Cory, but at least you can all start to see some real progress now.
Mickey, when do you plan to do the deck lid? As I recall, you got one of Carey's with the vents, right? I'm curious as to how easy it is to get the paint to match as I really like the look with the vents.
Lane,
I'm not quite sure I understand all of your question. I plan on putting the lid on when I get the engine out as it will be easier to align the hinges and get the spacing correct (as per Careys instructions). I'll probably do it tomorrow. As far as the paint goes - Since I hace so many little odds and ends to do on the car in regard to body work I'm just doing teh rattle can for now. I removed all the side trim and rocker panel trim. So far I've only filled the rocker panels in. I glassed the back and filled the holes with an epoxy filler. Then I sanded it, primed it and shot it with a can of "close enough" from Pep Boys. I used the same paint on the deck lid so it doesn't stick out too much, it came primed white. Once I get all the rest of the holes filled, and a few nicks here and there, I'll prep it for paint next spring.
I'll put up xome pics tomorrow of the lid if I get it in.
I'm not quite sure I understand all of your question. I plan on putting the lid on when I get the engine out as it will be easier to align the hinges and get the spacing correct (as per Careys instructions). I'll probably do it tomorrow. As far as the paint goes - Since I hace so many little odds and ends to do on the car in regard to body work I'm just doing teh rattle can for now. I removed all the side trim and rocker panel trim. So far I've only filled the rocker panels in. I glassed the back and filled the holes with an epoxy filler. Then I sanded it, primed it and shot it with a can of "close enough" from Pep Boys. I used the same paint on the deck lid so it doesn't stick out too much, it came primed white. Once I get all the rest of the holes filled, and a few nicks here and there, I'll prep it for paint next spring.
I'll put up xome pics tomorrow of the lid if I get it in.
I was just curious about when and how you were putting the new decklid on, since the picture showed the original one. I'm thinking of doing the Carrera decklid at some point, and possible the bumpers and shaved side deco. The side trim would have to wait until I can swing a paint job, which is kinda hard to justify right now since the original still looks good. One day, though...
Uhhh, I don't know Lane. I'm not sure I want to divulge my secrets to you. I want the only red Carrera on the site and if you do it there'll be two.
Just kiddin. I'm gonna try to put the lid on tomorrow. If we get the engine out I'll go that route, but if we don't get started on that I'll still try to do it from the outside. I'll take pics for you.
If you do go with the bumper trim I'd be more than happy to help you through it via email or phone call. It's not that hard but it can be a little intimidating being that you don't want to bend it wrong or crease it.
And as far as the rocker panel trim goes - I have an old IM and there were tiny little raised lines along the rocker panels. At first I thought they were excess paint but they didn't come off as easily as paint would have. Anyway, I had to do some sanding, filling, glazing, sanding, ect... to get the area smooth. And then, like I mentioned, I just shot them with a rattle can until I get it painted next spring.
Just kiddin. I'm gonna try to put the lid on tomorrow. If we get the engine out I'll go that route, but if we don't get started on that I'll still try to do it from the outside. I'll take pics for you.
If you do go with the bumper trim I'd be more than happy to help you through it via email or phone call. It's not that hard but it can be a little intimidating being that you don't want to bend it wrong or crease it.
And as far as the rocker panel trim goes - I have an old IM and there were tiny little raised lines along the rocker panels. At first I thought they were excess paint but they didn't come off as easily as paint would have. Anyway, I had to do some sanding, filling, glazing, sanding, ect... to get the area smooth. And then, like I mentioned, I just shot them with a rattle can until I get it painted next spring.
OK, I promised pics so here ya go! There wasn't a whole lot of open time at my buddies garage today so I didn't get to far. But at least the engine is getting closer to the car. LOL
And the other day I installed the "dual ignition" switches in my dash. I still have a lot of work to do on the interior so I consider everything I'm doing now as the "mock up". It'll all be sorted out this winter.
And the other day I installed the "dual ignition" switches in my dash. I still have a lot of work to do on the interior so I consider everything I'm doing now as the "mock up". It'll all be sorted out this winter.
Attachments
Images (2)
COOL!!! A VW-powered trailer!!! I LIKE IT!
Don't worry about me crashing your red-Carrera-exclusivity any time soon. If I ever do it, it's several years off. I can't justify the paint job given how good the original still looks. But the decklid may be another story. Love dem vents!
Don't worry about me crashing your red-Carrera-exclusivity any time soon. If I ever do it, it's several years off. I can't justify the paint job given how good the original still looks. But the decklid may be another story. Love dem vents!
I'm counting to 10 and taking deep breaths.
It's day two and I've gotten nowhere. It rained most of the day today so we didn't do anything to the car. Needless to say, it's a little frustrating having everything sitting right there and not getting anything done. As I've mentioned before, it's not my garage, and I'm trying not to get in the guys ways as they're earning a living and me taking a spot is taking $ out of their pockets. So I'm getting another lesson in patience. I know once we get started it'll only take a day or so to do the swap so I'll just wait my turn.
I did try to do the deck lid today and quickly discovered, as most things with this car, it'n not a simple swap. The underside of the Beck lid is different than the one I have. I think it's best to wait until the motor is out and I can get in from underneath and do it right. No sense in rushing it.
It's day two and I've gotten nowhere. It rained most of the day today so we didn't do anything to the car. Needless to say, it's a little frustrating having everything sitting right there and not getting anything done. As I've mentioned before, it's not my garage, and I'm trying not to get in the guys ways as they're earning a living and me taking a spot is taking $ out of their pockets. So I'm getting another lesson in patience. I know once we get started it'll only take a day or so to do the swap so I'll just wait my turn.
I did try to do the deck lid today and quickly discovered, as most things with this car, it'n not a simple swap. The underside of the Beck lid is different than the one I have. I think it's best to wait until the motor is out and I can get in from underneath and do it right. No sense in rushing it.
I have been in your shoes before and I can tell you from experience it SUCKS. The bright side of the story is your car will look BAD ASS when you done and all the frustration will be forgotten. Think positive.
No worries Lambros, I'm not discouraged, just frustrated having to wait on things. It's not in my nature to rely on others for things. I'm the type that likes to move instead of wait.
Engine and trans are out! Now on to the shock relocation and reinforcing the chassis. We're just kicking ideas around on the "how's and where's" using the schematics from Joe S and Greg B. Hopefully we'll get that finished up by the beginning of next week. Then we'll put the new stuff in.
Engine and trans are out! Now on to the shock relocation and reinforcing the chassis. We're just kicking ideas around on the "how's and where's" using the schematics from Joe S and Greg B. Hopefully we'll get that finished up by the beginning of next week. Then we'll put the new stuff in.
Mickey, I hope you have the camera handy during all that. I want to see what you come up with.
Here's a browser-discovered picture for you, Mickey.
A little inspiration, maybe?
A little inspiration, maybe?
Cory,
Don't worry, I'll take pics.
My buddy and I were assessing the reinforcement issue today. He looked over the drawings that Greg B and Joe S posted and it seems that the old IM's are a little different in regard to the subframe. So we can really go that route unless we remove the entire body, which I may add, I actually considered for about 10 minutes.
After further examination, it seems like the pan is slightly bent and that is why the driver side sits an inch higher than the passenger side in the rear.
It seems the flex is occuring right at the base of the posts that run upward right behind the doors. There is no way to get any triangulation going forward or backward (OK, there's about 2 inches). So what were thinking of doing is welding two arms that run from the engine forks to the 2x2 tube subframe to reduce the 'sag' in the rear subframe. We'll put in the trans tomorrow to mock it up and tack them in to see how it works.
Don't worry, I'll take pics.
My buddy and I were assessing the reinforcement issue today. He looked over the drawings that Greg B and Joe S posted and it seems that the old IM's are a little different in regard to the subframe. So we can really go that route unless we remove the entire body, which I may add, I actually considered for about 10 minutes.
After further examination, it seems like the pan is slightly bent and that is why the driver side sits an inch higher than the passenger side in the rear.
It seems the flex is occuring right at the base of the posts that run upward right behind the doors. There is no way to get any triangulation going forward or backward (OK, there's about 2 inches). So what were thinking of doing is welding two arms that run from the engine forks to the 2x2 tube subframe to reduce the 'sag' in the rear subframe. We'll put in the trans tomorrow to mock it up and tack them in to see how it works.
I'm glad to hear there's progress. It'll be worth it.
http://www.qsm.com.au/show_wallpaper.php?id=56
I am going to model my Speedster rebirth after this Coupe.
I am going to model my Speedster rebirth after this Coupe.
Justin - (in my best Irish Brogue) That car is fookin coooool!!
Lane commented on Mickey's, "VW powered trailer". Don't laugh.
I have seen an actual Corvair powered car trailer. A complete engine and auto tranny connected to one driven axle in a tandem axle car trailer. Owner had some very long cables leading to his Corvair Van tow vehicle. He told me he could put it in and out of gear with one cable and with the other cable he could actually manipulate the throttle - sort of. He said he only used it when climbing steep hills. Otherwise he left it idling in neutral. Gas was cheap back then. And I guess he never got stopped by the cops!
I have seen an actual Corvair powered car trailer. A complete engine and auto tranny connected to one driven axle in a tandem axle car trailer. Owner had some very long cables leading to his Corvair Van tow vehicle. He told me he could put it in and out of gear with one cable and with the other cable he could actually manipulate the throttle - sort of. He said he only used it when climbing steep hills. Otherwise he left it idling in neutral. Gas was cheap back then. And I guess he never got stopped by the cops!
That's too funny. A Corvair powered trailer. If I was going to build one I'm not sure I'd use my speedster engine though, I've got other plans for that.
Well, we made some pretty good progress today. The trans is in. We needed to get that in to see where we could weld the 'engine fork to frame' supports in. Once it was in we cut some angle iron braces and welded them in. We also ended up relocating the upper shock mount right to the frame by drilling hole, welding a nut to the frame and then welding a piece of thread to the nut. Now the shocks are aligned properly to the tube and travel freely without rubbing.
The final touch was replacing those tabs that connected the frame to the shock perch. I took the tabs out and we cut a piece of plate steel, drilled a hole in it and bolted it through the old upper shock mount hole and welded the other end to the top of the frame. With having that connection back there now it should be a little more solid.
We'll see how it all sorts out once we get it on the road and test it under street conditions but it looks pretty solid. Before everything was in place you could push up on the rear section (while it was on the lift) and you could see things were pretty loose back there. Now EVERYTHING is connected. If you push hard enough the whole car moves!
I'll post pics later, my card reader is busted so I have to wait until I get home.
Tomorrow I'm hoping to get the engine in and start assessing the oil cooler fan , ect.... Maybe by the weekend I can get it on the road?!
Well, we made some pretty good progress today. The trans is in. We needed to get that in to see where we could weld the 'engine fork to frame' supports in. Once it was in we cut some angle iron braces and welded them in. We also ended up relocating the upper shock mount right to the frame by drilling hole, welding a nut to the frame and then welding a piece of thread to the nut. Now the shocks are aligned properly to the tube and travel freely without rubbing.
The final touch was replacing those tabs that connected the frame to the shock perch. I took the tabs out and we cut a piece of plate steel, drilled a hole in it and bolted it through the old upper shock mount hole and welded the other end to the top of the frame. With having that connection back there now it should be a little more solid.
We'll see how it all sorts out once we get it on the road and test it under street conditions but it looks pretty solid. Before everything was in place you could push up on the rear section (while it was on the lift) and you could see things were pretty loose back there. Now EVERYTHING is connected. If you push hard enough the whole car moves!
I'll post pics later, my card reader is busted so I have to wait until I get home.
Tomorrow I'm hoping to get the engine in and start assessing the oil cooler fan , ect.... Maybe by the weekend I can get it on the road?!
Here are pics of the work we did today.
You can see the new "joining bracket" attached to the stock upper shock mount.
The other two are of the braces that support the frame.
You can see the new "joining bracket" attached to the stock upper shock mount.
The other two are of the braces that support the frame.
Attachments
Images (3)
