Skip to main content

As I said Cory, there's only one Hoopty. I'd say it's 75% the Hoopty which is just enough for me to have fun and still stay alive. When are you coming to try it out?

Will,
This is the little info I have on my engine. It's 70x90.5 w/ mini wedgeport heads and a 2242 cam (and the rest that Pat mentioned above). The usual Weber 44's, A1 Sidewinder, MSD ect... If I recall during Pat and I's conversation, he said it was 2005cc, not a 2110. I'll keep after him as I'd like to have the info for future reference.
Looks great, Mickey.
I'll weigh in on the white lettering...
You spent a lot of time removing script and trim from your car for that outlaw look, why add lettering to the tires?
If you were going to embellish the car with meatballs, sponsors, Pegasus', etc., and go for that "right off the track" look, then maybe do the tires.
OK. A couple "Nays" on the white letters. I was just trying to incorporate some of the stuff my my "inspiration car". I kinda like it but it's a lot of work for seemingly little return.
Thanks for all the kind words.

I WISH my restaurants looked as good as the back drop. ;-)


Warren,
After rereading your last post I think I get what you're asking now. If it's about the edge (ends of the bumpers) then I'll see if I can answer more specifically. I cut the extra off and used a grinder to smooth it out and shape it to the edge. I cut it as close to the end as I could and then used a Dremel with a grinder on it to smooth out the edges. You could probably use a metal file as well. Then the wet/dry to smooth it more. You can see the channel gaps if you get really close but I'll fill those with aluminum caulk as well when the time comes. It's pretty soft stuff so it's easy to shape. I hope that answers it. It may look like I bent it around but it stops at the edge. If you want I'll take close ups of the ends for you.
Also, if you want a really, really nice sheen to them use Mothers Billet Polish. It's awesome! I've only done about half of one bumper but it looks almost like chrome. I put a few close ups in my file.
Update:
Well, all the important stuff is now finished. The rear suspension is tight and working properly. The engine and trans are holding up well and have been MAJOR improvements to the car, a very balanced ratio of "power to car" if you will.
I picked up the interior the other day and for the most part it looks good. There was an apparent communication gap in the seats. They guy didn't bind the carpet on the back of the seats. I'd told him I wanted it done and he said he thought I said I didn't want it. When I said "No. You must've misundrstood me." he said it was too late now. So that leaves me with "half assed" looking seats. I'm going to have to remove the carpet from the backs and have it bound by someone else and glue it back on, it's just not worth fighting this guy on it.
I still have to replace the cv boot on one of the rear axles and some other minor things.
Once the weather gets a little warmer I'll finish up the body work and get it prepped for paint. Once that's done I'm going to coat the floor boards with a bedliner material and install the carpet and it'll be done!!!
Mickey,

I was out playing around with the SC Coupe today, I'm replacing the silly old lady umbrella e-brake with a Beetle one. It's being raised up between the seats and set farther back. I use the e-brake a LOT when driving, so I want it right where I can get to it.

Anyway, the brake is being raised and the raised shifter rod will pass through the e-brake support stanchion all slick as snot.

I got to thinking of you while I was working on the handle, I'm not sure how you'll "solve" your own issues with e-brakes, but since I'm building the car towards the low-flying aircraft look, I've decided to weaponize the handle on mine.

Here are some pics for you just in case you wanna do the same:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/handle4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/handle3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/handle2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/handle1.jpg

The process was easy, the results sublime.


Forum Prick
You're a good man, Terry.
Mickey, if I'm not smellin' what he's steppin' in, I have a football-shaped ADAC badge for your grille. Teresa can bring it up on one of her road trips to the City. It would look GOOD on a "race" car.
I put the Spyder Club badge Angela gave me on the Hoopty, and the ADAC thingie shouldn't be gathering moss. It's all yours.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 032507 ADAC badges
Terry the suspense is killin me!

My address is:
Mickey Donatello
3604 Silverside Rd.
Wilmington, DE 19810


TC,
That looks AWESOME!!!! I'm in for sure. I'll pull my brake handle ASAP and get crackin.
I got a return email from Dario (the guy with the Spyder site) he's asking $550 for the Spyder brake handle. As much as I love the look of it, it's a bit steep for me.

Cory,
You're the best!!!
I stripped the handle, drilled it, blasted it with black beauty, wire brushed and buffed it out then textured the handle part with a barbed barrel-shaped burring tool (that we use for cylinder head porting) for a nice rough pebble finish.

A coat or three of automotive clear coat (with a gloss/hardener additive) and now it'll last forever. I have a neat idea for the "bracket" part of the e-brake assembly that I may work on this week.
If I do, I'll post some pics for you.

Mickey,

I had the bit still in the chuck, and a set of unused headlamp assemblies on the table, and a few pieces of that metal wire shelving with the white rubber removed, so . . .

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/hlight3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/hlight2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/hlight4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/hlight1.jpg


How on earth could I resist?

I see that you already have the wire basket stone guards, so probably not right for your car, but I'll be that they look right at home on mine.

Of course, if you want a pair, just lemme know-
Finally got the CV boot on the axle so I drove it down to Maaco today to get an estimate. $400 to do the car and dash. He's gonna do a single stage urethane on the car and a base coat clear coat on the dash.
I'll start on prepping it next week and hopefully get it to him the week of the 23rd.
Once it's back all thats left is putting everything back on, the new interior in, and the wheel & tire "Dirk treatment". Before the interior goes in I plan on siliconing every gap and hole in the car I can find and then coating the floor with bedliner to protect it a bit. I'm going to put in those little 2" vents for drainage that TC suggested and slit the floor carpet panels so theyn can be removed if (when) the car gets rained in.
At that point the only thing that is left is a new top, which I am in no real hurry for. I'll save it for the next winter project.
So it should be ready for Carlisle with plenty of time to spare.
Red again Gerd.

Alan,
Maaco did the same paint last time (3yrs ago) and it held up very nicely. I'll double check with them when I drop it off tomorrow and see what they think. Actually the only reason I'm getting the whole car redone is I just thought it'd be easier than spot painting. Since I had a few scrapes and scratchs and being that I took off the rocker trim and side trim there was enough to justify a complete repaint, but what was there was still holding up well.
Got a box-o-crap in the mail from Mickey yesterday, in it was the steering wheel adapter. What a shiny new piece of junk.

I need a REALLY precise measurement of the distance from the bottom of the splined aluminum piece/adapter base and the top of your blinker assembly housing. The measurement from the base, NOT the metal skirt that covers it.

I also need to know how much up and down adjustment is available on that housing. Is it currently at the very top of the column? Can it be moved closer to the dash without fouling the wiring?

It looks like a custom fiberglass piece made to cover the inner "basket" is the best way to go for this one and I want to be sure that it's going to fit perfectly.

I also need to know what you are currently using for a directional cancellation ring, and how it fits inside of the older housing/attaches to the adapter base.

PICS, PICS, PICS, and MEASUREMENTS my man ! ! And as close up and clear as possible, OK?

Thanks !

ForUm PriCkeRY

Isn't a box of crap the best TC?! I knew you'd like it.
I will get the measurements for you and pics as well.
As far as the turn signal cancelling ring, don't have one. Never really saw the need. I just flick the lever off after I turn.

Picked up the car today. It looks nice. A few little things here and there but since I wasn't looking for perfection it's just fine. Once everything is back on it'll look just like I wanted it to, an old 1950's car that's been well cared for over the years.
I got started on guages and lights then it started raining. Covered it up and will get back at it tomorrow. If I can get it "road ready" and get it home tomorrow I should be able to get ALOT done over the weekend since my wife will be out of town and I get the garage while she's gone. (Sweet!)

Attachments

Images (1)
  • newpaint
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×