The dashboard is not original but functional with one major crime.

Just another madness project for the future  

I took these in the garage during the daytime, but WOW! Way brighter with the LED Tail light bulbs and the H4 Headlights vs. the old sealed beams.  Rear turn, tail and brake lights are LED and the Headlights are the H4 kits from J Bugs.  Really easy to do and incredibly brighter.  I did add a relay to the headlight circuit as the wires and switch were getting warm when on for a little while.  The taillight bulbs were Sylvania from Auto zone and not very expensive.  

Now I’m sorry I made a comment about metal knobs.....Shoulda kept my typing fingers to myself!   Whado I know?  I’ve got VW ivory knobs on a pearl white dash!  

Your dash layout looks great.   What really matters is whether you can quickly find things when you need them and it looks like you should be all set.  

Nicely done, Jim!

Oh!  And that radio - No sweat.....It looks great.  I have mine in a black vinyl pod beneath a pearl white dash in a Burgundy interior.  

Shows what I know.....

Which H4 kit did you buy? 

Thanks Gordon! I really am trying to make this thing run, ride and look good. I am fixing things that I did during the build that were “rookie” mistakes. So, pretty soon, it will be a really nice ride.......I hope. :- )  Tomorrow, a spring on the rear deck lid and new release cable with a nice pull. I have a lawn mower pull w/ a bicycle brake cable there now. “Baby steps.”

The H4 kit came from Chico, not JBugs.  I have been buying a lot of stuff lately! 

H4 part #CPR 941124.  They were 16.99 ea. They were the proper reflected that fit perfectly in the original bezel and the basic H4 bulbs with a really nice seal between the 3 prong connector and the bulb/reflector.  

Jim, I built my CMC between 1995 and 2001 and I’m STILL fixing early mistakes, although I’m fixing fewer of them over time.  Sometimes, when things seem slow, I break something just so I’ll have to fix it.   

Gordon that is funny.  

Jim, H4 kit,  it handles 55/60W and can have a real nicer light increase with 80/100watt but you should make sure they are well aligned.  You can get them sent to your door fo $9 for 2.

Yup! I know about this a little from my BMW toro bikes.  It is important to have reflectors that match the bulbs.  I put Piaa H4s in one of my bikes and yikes! People were flashing me when I had the low beams on.  As far as alignment goes, I can rough that in on my  garage door, but this has to go in for NY state fee gathering inspection soon.  I just like to be sure everything is more than complaint first.  Thanks for the advice.  I do appreciate all of the input here!  Are you and Gordon going to Carlisle?  I am eager to meet you guys who contribute so much. 

Motor, not toro.

I’m also working with an original generator/regulator system.  I have an alternator and stand ready to go and that may be a near future project.  So, low amp generator means low amp total draw.  Just trying to kee[ things fron getting too hot. I have ordered a super beetle fuse box as mine is dicey.  I discovered two connector tabs that are dead due to corrosion.  The fuse is still hot at the top, but the contact tab that is riveted with a steel riviet is not making juice. So, time to replace the fuse block. And onward I go! 

@IaM-Ray any picture of your H4 with 80/100 light on your car

As long as you have H4 light buckets whether they are the hella Euro style or simply the H4 with the focused glass shaped front they would work.  You simply change the bulb.

@calmotion

What if you're not running a lens, any advice?

As far as I know an H4 light is supposed to be focused so that you don't kill the oncoming driver or at least bleach his hair if he is driving top down.  

Cibie and Hella have a lense focusing pattern and a cut off on dims, at the horizontal on the upcoming drivers side... If you do not have a focused lense I would stay away from anything greater than 55/60watt... just saying. 

In Ray's photo, above, that horizontal cut-off line of the light from your headlights on low beam should be even with the centerline of your headlight measured from the floor and at a forward distance of about 15 feet.   The kick-up to the right on both headlights is to let you see oncoming street signs.  High beam is not adjusted, only Low Beam.