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If the heads are packed with the 44/37 valves, they're most likely the Street Eliminator heads. Cb sells these in a whole variety of configurations, but the street versions just have a CNC port and polish, nothing fancy at all.

If anyone is thinking of going at them and opening up the ports, there's a pretty good chance that they'll end up flowing worse than before. I mean, the potential is there for something special, but each piece will need a professional touch to bring it up to "blueprint" spec. If the rumors of the coupe being sold after repairs are made to set it right, best not to monkey with the mill. Once you fuss with one item, you'll need to mess with the rest. The process never ends.

Maybe . . .
Paul, that's a very good question. I was still on good terms with the engine builder when he installed the cooler, so I never asked the question.
if I remember correctly, the one on the right is 'out,' and the thermostatic switch is on the inlet side. I'll get a definitive answer for you soon.
TC, nobody is going to open up the ports unless they know what they are doing. I agree they might not get any improvement if just hogged out. That is not what I was suggesting.

I was suggesting that since it's all apart, now is the time to do anything Tom wants to make it whatever he wants.

Displacement, cam, rocker ratio, intended powerband, and carburetion used all play a part in how the heads/valves are sized and ported. And let's not forget compression ratio.

I suggested Tom do one of three things: 1)buy new heads and manifolds,2)send his out for welding and porting, 3)leave them alone.
My caution on potentially porting those heads more is two-fold:

1.) Unless the person doing the porting knows what they are doing ON TYPE 1 VW HEADS (read that, "not a Harley machine shop") then it's really easy to screw up what you've got to be either worse than what you start with, or un-usable because they take out too much meat somewhere and make them weak or leak.

2.) There isn't a lot of head surface there on which to mount the intake manifolds in the first place, and it is only a two-stud mount on a Type 1. If you remove more material to open the ports to make it flow, the mounting surface for the intake manifold becomes even smaller and then you run the potential of often-leaking intake gaskets.

I have BIG, elliptical-shaped intake ports on my heads, which leaves very little mating surface for the intakes. With a two-stud mount, it means putting up with leaking gaskets a little more often than I might like. I suppose the good news is that the gaskets are relatively easy to change, but it would be better if they lasted a few years at a whack, rather than a year or so.

gn
Miracles happen every day, so we will keep the faith. The Saudis will pump more, the US will drill more, wind mills will spin more, and folks will want to see the country on the open road again. What you need is cross training: what is it that you do w/ RVs that can be applied elsewhere? Boats? Trailers? Double wides? I'm thinking that as more and more foreclosures rip people out of homes, double-wides may be a growth area? But what do I know? Chin up, old man, and POR.
I assume the whole Save the Coupe thing is on hold pending new engine parts returned from SoCal. And also the press of business on all hands, and the looming holiday week-end, and the price of gas, and the unhappy prospect of Tom becoming fun-car-less. This last bit is the worst of the story, if you ask me. Maybe "Save the Coupe" needs to turn into "Save the RVs!!" Anyway, is the weekend after the 4th still penciled in for a work detail?? Just asking.
I guess I am a little slow: what is there to "figure out" wrt these parts? You sent JPS a finite number of descrete parts, they (John)send you replacement versions (new?) of those number of parts. What could be simpler? If JPS/GEM wants to return to you one of your parts because he/they believe it to be undamaged, or at least serviceable and not in need of replacement, then here would be my position: if there is such a part in the collection you sent, then they JPS/GEM can keep that part and use it themselves. i.e., they ought to do whatever it takes to get you what you asked for.

PS: I warned you this would happen.
NO Big surprise . . . . More runaround from you know who. Looking like I must buy all my own stuff. What a horse's rear that guy is. He even remembers Carlisle his way despite several eye witnesses to the contrary.

I'm giving him a day or two more to get on board, but I don't have high expectations given the history and the advise of others to just forget it and move on.

I'll be coming in Friday from Cape May, Tom. I'll have whatever we can get done in eight or so hours, plus the first half of Saturday. I really want to get you back on the road just like everyone else here does.
Tins and wires, I'd think. Should be enough time to do both.
Here's the latest:

JPS finally HAS stepped up and is now covering the engine failure on my green coupe. I am shipping the rest of the parts back at John Steele's request. JPS has promised the engine builder will do the rebuild, test and ship it back covered by a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty (and transferable to the new owner if I sell). I agreed to take him up on the offer.

I pulled the carpet and am also sending it back as it is very stained and damaged from all the water. Hopefully JPS will replace it at no cost. we'll see. I have identified some of the water entry points and JPS has agreed to send a set of the splash guards now being used on his recent coupes.

Cory & Teresa are planning wiring clean up and tin refit work in the next few weeks. I know Danny is disappointed about the engine build, but the transferable 12/12 offer on the engine was too big a plus to pass up.

That's it for now.




Actually I am a bit relieved, at least of responsibility! I was looking forward to the rebuild, but I think this is better for you, Tom, the next owner, and even JPS.

You'd better let me, Bill, and Rocky come back and reinstall it, though! Oh, yeah, and that other guy who builds overpriced e-bay cars. Oh, sorry, Alan.
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