Like many projects in life, if done over, based on insight and experience gained, I like many, would have done some things a little different. As previously stated I
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Like many projects in life, if done over, based on insight and experience gained, I like many, would have done some things a little different. As previously stated I
I think the perfect engine is like the perfect women.
Perfection is in the eye of the beholder.
Perfection is in the eye of the beholder.
Forgive me, but that response was expected. As every man's perfect woman will vary thank goodness, please describe yours. I know very little about the VW engine and would like help in planning an engine that will give many many trouble free miles with excellent performance.
It's all about who you are, and what you want. What's right for me, would be a millstone around George's neck- and that
Thanks Stan, I
Show up at Knotts late in April and you'll get a chance to see, hear and maybe ride in a few replicarzzz with various configurations.
Get a good idea of what you want and what the limitations of each build combo is, I'm soon-to-be on my third engine in as many years.
Number one was reliable and steady as Stan's hammer.
Number two was equally reliable and jeopardized my license.
Number three is uh, (probably an emotional over-reaction to a certain someone who thinks his shit don't stink) a screamer!
Get a good idea of what you want and what the limitations of each build combo is, I'm soon-to-be on my third engine in as many years.
Number one was reliable and steady as Stan's hammer.
Number two was equally reliable and jeopardized my license.
Number three is uh, (probably an emotional over-reaction to a certain someone who thinks his shit don't stink) a screamer!
Paul, I want a ride in that MassIVe powered VS when I get there.
Jim
Jim
I don't have the perfect engine, it's a nice daily runner, but I want more. I have an idea of what that might be for me. What works for others will fill this thread.
I like the 2007 or 2017 configuration. It probably is the most reliable 2 Liter you can build with cooling and lengevity in mind. A nicely built one with good parts, the right port job and heads and carbs, will push 130-140 Hp.... reliably! I think Jake has some data on his site as it is the smallest T-1 he will build. And despite some differences we aired, I would look for a builder like Jake to build it. If not, then Pat Downs at CB. A concern would be the exhaust... probably needs a 1 5/8s vs my 1.5 CSP. I think I would send my CSP to a good exhaust builder (there are a few touted by members)and have him duplicate it in 1 5/8. That's $$$. And like Stan, I'm not sure if I want to plop 5-6g into it right now... it runs great.. and is reliable, but.... the need for speed calls. I am trying to resist.
Stan described my current engine... and it is much like his... with maybe a little more punch. The Heads (CB-44s, porting, exhaust (CSP) and the 40IDFs really woke it up. I ran ICTs and they are great carbs, but I was under-fueled with my heads, porting, cam, exhaust... so the IDFs sure make a difference. Of course a good crank, rods, springs, etc, are needed.
But the perfect engine? I've seen about 30 or 40 of them on this forum, and each was different. George's may be DNP, and Pauls new IV looks pretty awesome to me.
Last comment. There is one downside to the CSP system... well two if you count the expense. They are actually a little more restrictive than my old CB 1.5 merged with a Dynomax was. A member with the CSP has used other mufflers and it opened the system right up! I am personally looking into a pair if 15-16" x 5" Flowmasters and put them in the system with a little fabricating. I hope to do this before Knott's... maybe.
Look at the files at all the cars, look at the engines, and write the owners. There's a few 2110s out there that I like too.
Jim
I like the 2007 or 2017 configuration. It probably is the most reliable 2 Liter you can build with cooling and lengevity in mind. A nicely built one with good parts, the right port job and heads and carbs, will push 130-140 Hp.... reliably! I think Jake has some data on his site as it is the smallest T-1 he will build. And despite some differences we aired, I would look for a builder like Jake to build it. If not, then Pat Downs at CB. A concern would be the exhaust... probably needs a 1 5/8s vs my 1.5 CSP. I think I would send my CSP to a good exhaust builder (there are a few touted by members)and have him duplicate it in 1 5/8. That's $$$. And like Stan, I'm not sure if I want to plop 5-6g into it right now... it runs great.. and is reliable, but.... the need for speed calls. I am trying to resist.
Stan described my current engine... and it is much like his... with maybe a little more punch. The Heads (CB-44s, porting, exhaust (CSP) and the 40IDFs really woke it up. I ran ICTs and they are great carbs, but I was under-fueled with my heads, porting, cam, exhaust... so the IDFs sure make a difference. Of course a good crank, rods, springs, etc, are needed.
But the perfect engine? I've seen about 30 or 40 of them on this forum, and each was different. George's may be DNP, and Pauls new IV looks pretty awesome to me.
Last comment. There is one downside to the CSP system... well two if you count the expense. They are actually a little more restrictive than my old CB 1.5 merged with a Dynomax was. A member with the CSP has used other mufflers and it opened the system right up! I am personally looking into a pair if 15-16" x 5" Flowmasters and put them in the system with a little fabricating. I hope to do this before Knott's... maybe.
Look at the files at all the cars, look at the engines, and write the owners. There's a few 2110s out there that I like too.
Jim
Darrell:
I have one of those 2110's and I love it. It runs a pair of Dellorto 40mm carbs, an Engle 120 cam, balanced crank, Berg 903DP headers (no heater boxes), lightened flywheel, magna-spark ignition and all that other stuff, along with stock cooling, and has a LOT of low to mid torque between 2,200 and 3,500 rpm. Only at the end of the Summer did I start to open it up at the top end when I finally got over 1,200 miles (although my mid-eleven-second-son tells me I was still babying it) and it is a whole different (and much hotter) engine over 4 grand when it starts to flow. I built it up myself, but it is heavily invested in CB Performance (the heads, carbs and some of the case work). I do not have hydraulic lifters, but I would be interested to talk with someone who successfully uses them, although it's too late for me to use them on this engine.
It doesn't leak (yet), seems to run cool (but I've now got a good temp thermometer in there so I'll know better this Summer), supposedly makes about 140 hp and, so far, has been super reliable but, hey, it's only got about 1,600 miles on it!!
It has more than enough power for what I want to do with it (I'm too old to go crusin for V-8's to kill but it ROCKS on twisty back roads!!) and I believe it should last for 100K miles or more.
I totally agree with Stan on the costs involved - he's right on the money, (no pun, there) as to build it yourself will cost you over $3,500, and probably $4K - $5K for a turn-key......not cheap. However, I'm constantly seeing posts here from folks who got a 1776 and now wish they had a 2110 or 2160 T4 (or bigger) or something like that, so why not start out with that to begin with? If I was gonna do it over, I would probably go the 2160 T-4 route and another beefy transmission, but I'm happy with my 2110 so far. Stan, Paul and Jim have some terrific insights (wish I could figure out a way to get to Knott's to visit with them!) so listen to them!
Cockpit Heat's gonna be an issue, unless you spring $600 - $1K for a new Gas heater, and then it's moot unless you live in a warm place where you won't need it. All the rest is personal preference.
Gordon
I have one of those 2110's and I love it. It runs a pair of Dellorto 40mm carbs, an Engle 120 cam, balanced crank, Berg 903DP headers (no heater boxes), lightened flywheel, magna-spark ignition and all that other stuff, along with stock cooling, and has a LOT of low to mid torque between 2,200 and 3,500 rpm. Only at the end of the Summer did I start to open it up at the top end when I finally got over 1,200 miles (although my mid-eleven-second-son tells me I was still babying it) and it is a whole different (and much hotter) engine over 4 grand when it starts to flow. I built it up myself, but it is heavily invested in CB Performance (the heads, carbs and some of the case work). I do not have hydraulic lifters, but I would be interested to talk with someone who successfully uses them, although it's too late for me to use them on this engine.
It doesn't leak (yet), seems to run cool (but I've now got a good temp thermometer in there so I'll know better this Summer), supposedly makes about 140 hp and, so far, has been super reliable but, hey, it's only got about 1,600 miles on it!!
It has more than enough power for what I want to do with it (I'm too old to go crusin for V-8's to kill but it ROCKS on twisty back roads!!) and I believe it should last for 100K miles or more.
I totally agree with Stan on the costs involved - he's right on the money, (no pun, there) as to build it yourself will cost you over $3,500, and probably $4K - $5K for a turn-key......not cheap. However, I'm constantly seeing posts here from folks who got a 1776 and now wish they had a 2110 or 2160 T4 (or bigger) or something like that, so why not start out with that to begin with? If I was gonna do it over, I would probably go the 2160 T-4 route and another beefy transmission, but I'm happy with my 2110 so far. Stan, Paul and Jim have some terrific insights (wish I could figure out a way to get to Knott's to visit with them!) so listen to them!
Cockpit Heat's gonna be an issue, unless you spring $600 - $1K for a new Gas heater, and then it's moot unless you live in a warm place where you won't need it. All the rest is personal preference.
Gordon
I tell you a 2.3 Raby Type IV is pretty sweet. Just had the 500 mile service so I can now wind it out. I just keeps on pulling from low rpm to high. May be more expensive than the engines that you guys are talking about, but you know what you are getting and for my money it was worth it.
Glad to see its working our Martin.. Next time you drive it take it to 7K and hold it there.. No need to be easy on it!
I could add pages to this post, but they probably would not be thought of positively by the majority here..
I could add pages to this post, but they probably would not be thought of positively by the majority here..
I'm going with a 2332 with good street performance guts. I like lots of power and don't think you can have too much. There are a number of good engine builders in CA that can build you what you want for about 4.5K
Jim,
Actually, you're being generous to say my motor is a lot like yours. Yes, they are both 1776s, but I'm putting yours at about 100- 110 hp, and mine at 80 or so. Carbs, heads, and exhaust make a BIG difference. I'm actually looking at the 2007 configuration, because I'd like to stay with an off the shelf (CSP) exhaust if I do this, but the size limitation is still the exhaust. A nice 2007 long block is only about $600 more than a 1776 long block, and if I'm already spending money at that rate... Pat Downs thinks I could get away with the 1-1/2" CSP on the 2007, but we both agree that it would be the restriction in the system. And the "compromise" CSP exhaust is over $1K if you buy the boxes and get it ceramic coated. If you DO have a 1-5/8" replica of your CSP exhaust fabricated, let me know. I'd like to see what kind of pricing we can get if we would have two built. You know, now that I think about it, just let me know when you really get hot on a new motor, and we'll talk about me buying your current set-up (exhaust included). I thinks we'd both be happy with that.
The thing is- I really don't want more than about 100 reliable NON-LEAKING hp or so, and I can tell everybody right now that its going to be hard for me to step up to an exhaust that costs more than the entire 400 hp small block chevy I built when I was 20 (to say nothing of the engine). Oh yeah- I still want heater boxes. And to think- I bought my first speedster because it looked like inexpensive fun.
Actually, you're being generous to say my motor is a lot like yours. Yes, they are both 1776s, but I'm putting yours at about 100- 110 hp, and mine at 80 or so. Carbs, heads, and exhaust make a BIG difference. I'm actually looking at the 2007 configuration, because I'd like to stay with an off the shelf (CSP) exhaust if I do this, but the size limitation is still the exhaust. A nice 2007 long block is only about $600 more than a 1776 long block, and if I'm already spending money at that rate... Pat Downs thinks I could get away with the 1-1/2" CSP on the 2007, but we both agree that it would be the restriction in the system. And the "compromise" CSP exhaust is over $1K if you buy the boxes and get it ceramic coated. If you DO have a 1-5/8" replica of your CSP exhaust fabricated, let me know. I'd like to see what kind of pricing we can get if we would have two built. You know, now that I think about it, just let me know when you really get hot on a new motor, and we'll talk about me buying your current set-up (exhaust included). I thinks we'd both be happy with that.
The thing is- I really don't want more than about 100 reliable NON-LEAKING hp or so, and I can tell everybody right now that its going to be hard for me to step up to an exhaust that costs more than the entire 400 hp small block chevy I built when I was 20 (to say nothing of the engine). Oh yeah- I still want heater boxes. And to think- I bought my first speedster because it looked like inexpensive fun.
You know, the more I think about it, maybe the perfect engine is John H's new subi-speedster.
What is John H's new subi-speedster engine like?
Also, many thanks to Jake Raby for posting on Speedsterowners.com I know he is quite busy. In my research I been pouring over and over his website.
The perfect engine, when and if it were ever to become a reality ....the "Big Three" would grind it into the eatrh as as they did with the Tucker......Alan M
You know, now that I think of it, John H's Subytub will have hot water heat in the cockpit.........Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.........Maybe not so crazy an idea at that!
Perfect engine. hmmmmmmm. Nothing is perfect, but I think I made a good choice for me. We don't have much of a winter here in East Tennessee, but when I took Algebra (VS Speedster) out on the colder days I found that I had to dress warmly to make up for the heat that wasn't there and the drafts that were. In going to the Suby power, I give up the traditional sound and the simplicity of the T1 which I thought about carefully. What I gained was a computer controlled engine with OBD technology, heat, a nice crisp raspy engine sound and no leaks. With the 14 gallon fuel tank, I expect that it will have legs for the long drives such as to Carlisle and no fear of overheating with sustained high speeds. That's the plan and I hope it works out as I believe it will.
John H
Maybe I should have two replicars....Uh oh....do I see someone reaching for a rolling pin....;)
John H
Maybe I should have two replicars....Uh oh....do I see someone reaching for a rolling pin....;)
The perfect engine is one built by a builder you trust. A good builder will listen to your wants and offer his two cents early in the process. Its smart to listen to the pro's. Its all in the combo. Buy the best heads you can for your application and a good exhaust system. Pay the guy and forget about it.
The perfect engine is always the "next" engine a guy is going to get!
Oh David, say it isn't so!
Paul just paid me for a "perfect engine"
He can tell you what it feels like..
No engine is perfect, every one I do could be made better...
He can tell you what it feels like..
No engine is perfect, every one I do could be made better...
Well.........
Paul's 182 BHP engine wasn't enough!!!
I have decided to keep his engine and slap it tinto my test car for testing our A/C over the summer.
Paul's credit is being applied to a 2615cc "Superhero" (80x 102mm)
Thats good for 220 *perfect* Horsepower and over 200 lb/ft of torque.
Paul's 182 BHP engine wasn't enough!!!
I have decided to keep his engine and slap it tinto my test car for testing our A/C over the summer.
Paul's credit is being applied to a 2615cc "Superhero" (80x 102mm)
Thats good for 220 *perfect* Horsepower and over 200 lb/ft of torque.