The right wheels for a CMC flared speedy?

Hello everyone,
I have a question about wheels.
I have found a set of Porsche cup II wheels for my speedster with the following dimensions. They are 17" dia.,5 X 130mm, fronts are 7" and rear are 9". I will need to find some 4 to five bolt adapters but would like some input from anyone that might know if these would fit without hitting? I dont care if they sit up inside the fender well just as long as they don't rub. the car has been lowered a little but I don't think that will cause me any problems.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

from reading one of the previous questions I guess I need to add more information:
I have a standard width adjustable front beam with gia disc brakes in the front and I have an IRS rear suspension(74 model) with adjustable rear swing arms.
I guess my biggest concern now is the rear. with 9". now this 9" and 7" is the total wheel width.

Thanks,
John

You can easily measure your wheel width, back space, wheel well depth, and spacing from the torsion plate to the flat of the drum or rotor . . . THEN hit the web for a wheel spacing calculator site. The Tire Rack and a host of others have them.

Easy Peasy.

You don't want to place too much strain on the stub axles and bearings, hang too much extra wheel width and weight off of the end of those tiny stubs. Adding a spacer/adapter is just providing extra leverage/moving the fulcrum point inwards to make damage all that much more likely to occur.

Just be careful.

Luck,

TC

What is the offset? This should be stamped on the P wheel

I have Boxter wheels on my flared CMC personal car 8.5 x 17 rear and 7 x 17 front.
Rear trailing arms are 86-944T and 25 mm wider per side. With 245/17 rears they fit perfectly.

Your spacer/adapter and 1/2" wider wheels will compensate for my wider track, but I suspect that it will be very close.

My half-built CMC flared speedie came with 8.5x16 aluminum wheels front and rear. Mounted on the front were Goodyear ZR 225/50 16s and 255/50 16s on the rear. The handling was slow and the ride rough.

I located a set of Dyna Lite 7x15 aluminum two-piece wheels that had been made in Japan. They are very light weight and look good. The ride and handling were both greatly improved with these wheels and tires.

I weighed one of the old wheel/tire sets, which was right at 50 pounds. The Dyna Lite with tire as closer to 30 pounds. I figure that unsprung weight makes a significant difference in the handling of these very light vehicles with their antique suspensions.

Chuck

I'd go with new brake drums/rotors drilled in the Porshe pattern vice the adapters. Not sure what the adapters add to pushing the wheels out further but suspect its 3/4" each side which would be too much (most likely in the rear) but might work on front.

http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp

John:

I agree with Wolfgang; adding spacer/adapters might push your wheels out too far at the back. I have a set of 7" Fuchs (unknown back spacing, but they're stock 911), I am running 1-1/4" spacer/adapters and the sidewalls are about a finger's thickness away from the fender lip at the rear, but don't use that as an example. Do what TC suggested and measure these distances first:

On the wheels:
- From the inner wheel sidewall to the hub mounting surface

- From the outer wheel sidewall to the hub mounting surface

On the car:
- From the Spring Plates out to the drum/hub mounting flange (where the wheel seats against the hub).

- From the drum/hub mounting flange to a vertical line (plumb bob) dropped from the inside of the fender lip.

That's the space you have to fit into. You should now know the overall width of your wheel and tire, AND where it fits in relation to nearby car parts.

Depending on what those wheels measure to, either they'll fit right in or they won't. If they need to go outward you can use thin (1/8" thick) spacer rings from some place like Tweeks (Mid-America), Automotion or our friends at Pelican Parts (great place). Just run slightly longer wheel studs (Pelican has those, too) and stack up the rings to get the thickness you need - that's it.

Pelican also sells one-piece billet wheel spacers and adapters - those might be an alternative, too, if they match what you need.

If the wheels have to go inward to fit inside the fenders, I'm afraid you're not going to be able to use those rims (at least the 9" guys).

Good luck!

gn

Hello everyone,
thanks for the great information and websites.
I did not by the wheels but will still be searching for a set of 17" wheels with a deeper offset that will fit on my speedy.

Hello,
I would like to re-iterate John's question, since I have a similar plan: What is the best way to get from the 4 x 130 mm to a 5-bolt pattern? And going 5-bolt is there a preferable diameter? (If I have missed the answer ..sorry) I have drum brakes in the rear and discs in the front.

I contacted VS (vintagespeedsters.com) because they have a beautiful picture on their site (bordeaux speedster) see under MEDIA. They were quite helpful with the rim sizes. I love those rims, which are 17x10 in the rear and 17x8 in the front. VS said they have the rims custom made. What I don't know yet is again the best way to convert to 5-lug, and what tires are actually on the car.

I appreaciate all the insight and info.
Thanks
Pete

PS: Jogyver, I read many good and helpful infos from you! Great is that site you just posted (rims&tires).

PSS I would have attached a picture but don't how that works...the File..doesn't pull down

Peter,

I would get new rotors(front) and drums(rear) with a Chevy or a Ford 5 bolt pattern if you are looking for a wider selection of rims. Thats only true if you prefer something thats not a stock 356 look. Assuming you like the look of the burgandy car on Vintage.

With the new rotors and drums you wont need adapters to fit the wheels of your choice. Lots of VW sellers carry rotors and drums in Chevy/Ford patterns. I would try www.cip1.com first. Cip1 does carry a combo chevy/porsche patterned rotors or drums if you want to switch between 911(5x130) and Chevy patterned rims.

Remember you must also get 20 new wheel studs and nuts. I would think this type of conversion would cost in the $500 range.

my .02

Bryan

Bryan,
Thanks for the input! I have checked out the cip-option and it really looks that is what I will do. Just thinking if I should go 5 bolt studs or 5 holes.. I have to check what is better for rims availability I believe. Thanks again - I will keep you guys updated as I progress.

Peter

STUDS ONLY!!! There are no bolts( like on a VW) that will fit. Studs have to be pressed in. You should be able to find a machine shop in your area that can press them in. Bolts are a pain any way.

I would buy the studs and bring them to the machine shop. I will try and find the place I bought my studs from. I dont think cip1 carries them.

I figured in this cost when I gave the estimate.

Bryan

I installed studs by pulling them in with a nut and a stack of washers.

The first time I installed studs I made the mistake of not using a drill press to drill out the threads. I would up with studs that were not perpendicular to the drum face.

I have a "wheel problem" also

Per Hans,
What size are your wheels? Your car has the stance I am going after with mine.