Skip to main content

Closed12 replies

The show begins...

FM Former Member
Just bought my doner, a 1970 VW Beetle 1302S (Super Beetle).

http://www.1302super.com/page5.html



Checked local internet ads for such a specific car (IRS, gearbox), then found a few and went on to see them first hand, in all their various conditions - and prices.

Managed to find one that looks pretty good, little to none apparent rust (other than that superficial one), engine was stopped circa 2 years (and ran beautifully after a gasoline "shot" straight on the carburator), and is now on the workshop were I'll jointly work on it, after some 90kms on a trailer.

Next step is disassembly, part separation and labelling (hopefully will try to get some of the purchase money back on a few parts :P), and ...


The madness begins!! :D
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

FM Former Member
Just bought my doner, a 1970 VW Beetle 1302S (Super Beetle).

http://www.1302super.com/page5.html



Checked local internet ads for such a specific car (IRS, gearbox), then found a few and went on to see them first hand, in all their various conditions - and prices.

Managed to find one that looks pretty good, little to none apparent rust (other than that superficial one), engine was stopped circa 2 years (and ran beautifully after a gasoline "shot" straight on the carburator), and is now on the workshop were I'll jointly work on it, after some 90kms on a trailer.

Next step is disassembly, part separation and labelling (hopefully will try to get some of the purchase money back on a few parts :P), and ...


The madness begins!! :D
FM Former Member
Jeff, I think I will use a new (or "donated") front end from a non-Super.
It should be the easier way to go, unless someone here has a magic mojo to share :)


Bill, if you go to the link I posted up there, production in Europe started 8.70 (mine is 12.07) - I belive the US got them one year on?




FM Former Member
With the deal I got this one, with a perfectly working engine, I'd be hard pressed to find another one.

It has a lot of the features I'm looking for - and selling the parts I won't need will translate to more money than I'll spend buying the alternative front end.


(at least that's the reasoning I was told by the people who are helping me put this whole thing together) :)
FM Former Member
Pedro,

As others have said you can change the mounting points for the front suspension but locating another IRS pan, just the pan, to shorten might be easier in the long run. You could save the good motor and sell the Super without a motor.

Unless the welding is done REALLY well you will have alignment issues later.

Your car is only as good as the foundation you begin with.

Good Luck
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
Its the rear part of chassis that needs to match the title - suspect front ball-joint chassis pieces are readily available (and you don't need title for that piece). (Make sure you remove the front VIN plate and one in windshield before you trash CVW body). I still remember using two 2x4"s from Home Depot as jig to shorten my CMC (IAW the build manual). Just hope they weren't warped too bad.

There was a piece made by CMC to convert SB struts to ball joint - see the build manual in the library.
FM Former Member
The alteration will be done by a company that has a beetle-specific jig, and does that alteration often.
They are also the official Manxter builders in Europe, so that should be some sort of 'quality stamp'?

To the best of my knowledge, there is no OEM standard Beetle with IRS in Europe (?), hence the difficulty.



I will go there and see the shop and talk to him, and ask about the change.
How about using two chassis', and join them at the "cut", hence only having one weld?
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
2 chassis' is what I was saying - not sure what body you are using but cutting directions are in the CMC build manual (a complicated jig is not even required). Just remember to get the front half with the tunnel piping cut long (clutch tube, gas line, gas pedal, emergency brake, heater control lines).

I picked up rear 1/2 for a SO who could not register his built Speedster because the title was lost over years. His needed complete refurb so relatively simple graft of rear piece. Got extra trans, trailing arms and relatively new oil shocks out of it.

Attachments

Hide
Images (1)
  • 74 rear chassis 1
Post Content
Remove This Ad

Membership Required

We're sorry. You must be signed in to continue. Sign In or Register
×
Are you sure you want to remove from your Block List?
×
Loading...
×
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×

Access to this requires a premium membership.

Supporting Member

Please help keep us running!

Supporting members have donated about $4.00 a month ($49.00 US per year) paid annually.

  • Priority support
  • Removal of inter-page (between thread) advertisements.
  • Access to Build Manuals
  • Access to Knowledge Base
  • Access to Supporting Members events.
  • Access to Leveraged Group Buying from site Merchants.

AUTO RENEW: You membership will auto-renew after 12 months. If you prefer not to auto-renew, you can cancel your premium membership at any time and it will remain in effect until the end of the 12 months. To cancel, sign in at SpeedsterOwners.com and navigate to: (Your User Name)  > Premium Membership.

PLEASE NOTE: Your credit card will receive a charge from CROWDSTACK PAY, the payment processor, not SpeedsterOwners.com.

$49.00 per 12 Months (plus tax if applicable)
×