Thinking about a Beck Speedster...

1) Heat - A waste of time.  I only drive my car when the weather is nice with the top down.  The heat works so poorly, it's not worth the added expense, weight, or clutter.

2) Mirror placement - The originals were all dealer installed, so there's no historic location.  I find mine to be in the most astetically pleasing location, but the right one is completely useless and the left one can only be seen by peering through the side curtain.  Since I'm a top down driver, this isn't much of an issue, but when the side curtains are in, it becomes one.  Further out on the fender where I could always see them through the windshield would be functionally better.  Still happy with my choice, though.

3) Beck specific - Snaps should be added to the top at the rear bottom edge of the window openings.  The originals and Vintage (probably the others) have this.  Beck has Velcro, which doesn't work.

4) External Oil cooler - my engine needed it.

5) Cold starting - be really careful not to over rev or you will blow the seal out in the oil filter.  Ask me how I know.

6) Fire suppression - IM installs a nice self-contained halon unit.

7) Key scratches around ignition - place some protection film over paint to avoid them

8) Stay Fast Top & Tonneau - I lucked out on these

9) Rear disc brakes - They're going in this winter.  Too many close calls.

I had excellent advice from this site.  Look up "Last minute spec advice" I chose to ignore some that I later regretted, like CSP shifter. but, in general, In general, everyone helped me avoid a lot of mistakes.

Everything can be remedied.  I would recommend focusing on builder, color, & Powertrain.  These are harder and more expensive to change.

Thanks for your thoughts, Tom.

 

If only it were nice enough for top down often enough in the Northeast. 

 

Never would have thought about mirror placement...and hoped I didn't have to to think about fire suppression!

 

The more I read, the more I wonder what is driving me down this route (pun intended). Kinda costly, tough to register, circumscribed by insurance regulations, fire and rain, cold and cranky.  But still such a desirable artifact.  

 

Reminds me of an official Red Ryder, carbine action, two-hundred shot, range model air rifle.  I just know I'm going to shoot my eye out.

 

Michael

 

Follow the link below for a well written, concise article on what you need to know about Speedster Replicas?

Ready for a Speedster Replica?

Thanks, read it!

Talk to Lane...

Thanks!

convex rear view mirrors( if you're really going to drive with them). Concurring with Tom on CSP shifter. Depending on your budget you may want to consider 3.10 first gear. 190 second. Stump puller first (3.80) is somewhat useless. Torque bar brings some stability. Many different ideas as to the best ways to spend your $. All changes are expensive. Good luck!

 

Bob

"7) Key scratches around ignition - place some protection film over paint to avoid them"...jeez, slow down Tom!

CUP HOLDERS!

 

Also, some vinyl film along the tops of the doors to forestall abrasion of the side window bottom rubber into the door paint.

 

A 12V power outlet

 

Under-dash courtesy lights

 

Suspension narrowed to accept 6" - 7" rims on a classic body.

 

A kafer brace as standard on a pan car, along with front longitudinal braces on the beam tubes.

 

Gas struts as standard on the engine cover.

 

A hydrovac booster for the brakes (power brakes) - that would make rear discs un-necessary.

 

 

 

Yes, do your homework, there's plenty of these things available in all sorts of variety. Be patient, unlike me!

Rich, the key scratches are from the other keys dangling from the key ring.  If you haveb't experienced this yet, you will.

Ahha, Tom, here I thought you were just so anxious to get moving each time you got near Natalie...

Look for one with decent power.  I know that decent power is very subjective, but if you like to be able to merge onto the freeway and pass other vehicles on the highway without worry a 1600 won't cut it. 

My engines over the years:

1.  stock 1600-scary slow

2.  mild 1776-better, but not much highway passing power

3.  breathed on 2110 MUCH better 

4.  2276-Just about right.  I would have gone larger, but I already had an 82 mm crank.

Ron's correct. Power is important if you're expecting to have some fun. If you just want to "be seen", a teenie-tiny engine will do you just fine.

I'll say it again, search on "Last minute" and you'll find a wealth of suggestions that mostly went into my build.  You asked "what would I have wished I had known" and that list is much shorter due to these find folks and that thread.  Another, thing, I'm adding a oils drain plug and breather box this winter.

Fine, not find.  I hope autocorrect in IOS6 is not such a PIMA.

Man, lots going on here!  Thanks fr all your input, particularly the admonition to be patient!  I've got some research to do.