This oil filtration setup

How does this type of filtration setup compare to the pump based styles (full flow). I am thinking that it might allow the internal high pressure bypass valve to open, during periods of high pressure (like startup), and then send unfiltered oil to the engine ?? However,, if the oil pressure is below the bypass valves set limit (stock 28psi,, I think), it should provide continuous filtration. Does that sound correct ??
thanks,
Alan

You can have a remote filter without the cooler.

Some people don't like the pump based filters because the filter is near the heat of the exhaust.

I am assuming by pump based you mean the filters that are mounted on a rigid arm extending from the pump.

For something other than pump based you need to have your engine case tapped.

Also, the kit you show has a fitting that replaces the stock oil cooler.

Removing the stock oil cooler can have a negative effect on engine cooling. It changes the air flow in the shroud.

thanks for the reply, Michael,,
Actually,, when I said "pump based" I meant the same setup as the first photo,, but with one of the aftermarket oil pumps, which have a set of inlet/outlet ports specifically for remote filter attatchment. Like this second photo illustrates. The rigid arm filter pumps don't really allow for a remote cooler,, which is desirable in many applications.
thanks,
Alan

Gene Berg cast iron pump cover, with built-in overpressure bypass. Full flow the case, and throw that aluminum piece away that goes on the case. Then you can leave the cooler in the shroud(which should have all the flaps and a thermostat), add a filter, and add an additional cooler if needed. The thermostat is only needed if you have the additional external cooler. You'll want the extra cooler if you have anything bigger than a 1915cc or live in a hotter climate.

Thanks, Dan,,
I already have the same general system that is illustrated in my first posting. It seems to work very well,, even though I also currently have the much critizised dune buggy style shroud as well. I don't have any overheating issues, and it takes either a hot day, or a bunch of really spirited driving to even get the oil thermostat to open up. I do keep the rev's under 3k, until I get above 120deg's on my oil temp's, but then it may take another 20 minutes or so to get it up to 180ish.

I need to get an oil pressure gauge set up,, cause that is good information to have. But I was mostly concerned that the 20w50 oil I am currently using would force the stock bypass valve open, during the warmup period. So, I plan to try a 5w40 Brad Penn oil on my next change,, which should flow a lot better when cold. Cruising Canada,, is surely not as demanding at Arizona or similar.

Now,, I am changing my fan shroud over to the stock style empi 36hp, with no doghouse. But I don't plan to use the stock internal cooler with it. I just don't buy the idea that #3 will run cooler by pumping more heat from the stock internal cooler over it. I guess I do agree with this "Hoover" article on the topic, and think it is worth a read. Scroll down to the bit on aftermarket oil coolers, and let me know what you think. Cheers, Alan

http://www.vw-resource.com/oil_cooler.html#bit

I've never figured out why Bernie's illustration shows the fan thermostat switch on the Input side of the cooler.

That doesn't make sense to me. I think the fan thermostat switch should be on the Output side of the cooler. You don't need to turn on the fan unless the oil coming OUT of the cooler is over 180 and needs additional cooling by turning on the fan.

Putting the thermostat on the Input side is backwards logic. Why would you turn the fan on at 180 at that point? The temp at that point is over 180 all of the time (it had to be over 180 to even be released to the cooler by the main thermostat valve). So basically when the fan thermostat is on the Input side of the cooler the fan will turn on every time the main thermostat valve switches supply to the cooler.

Why not let the cooler get first crack at cooling the oil switched to it by the main thermostat valve. That's the cooler's job. If the cooler needs help, then turn on the fan.

The idea is to keep the oil temp to at least 180. Turning the fan on before you know you need it kind of defeats the whole purpose of the thermostat control.

I think you are correct, in your reasoning about BB's thermostat switch location, Mark. Actually,, I just have a manual fan switch on the center console, as well as a oil temp gauge. My cooler location has pretty good airflow, as long as the car is moving. If I get into a stop and go, or any time I am driving hard enough to push the oil temp's over 180, I just flip the switch on. In traffic the temperature is quickly reduced with the fan on. BUT,, does the fact that I prefer a manual switch,,,, make me a control freak !! ;-) Alan

Yes, you're probably a control freak. ;>)

Mark, think about this, though......that particular cooler is designed to mount on an unperforated, flat surface. If, instead, you mount it into a free-flowing air stream (like under the front end of the car and direct air through it all the time) then I would agree with your logic about the fan thermostat switch placement.

If, however, you mount the cooler as I did, on the driver rear inner fender panel, it doesn't get a whole lot of air flow (some, to be sure, but I don't think it's a lot) unless the fan is running to pull air in from the 3/4" space between the cooler fins and the fender wall surface. In THAT case, I would prefer to sense the temp coming out of the engine, assume that the cooler would only be marginal without the fan and start up the fan as soon as the engine output going to the cooler is over 180F.

Either way, it's gonna cool the case oil better than a stock cooling tower alone. It's just a decision of whether you have enough air flowing through the cooler without the fan in your particular installation (especially when people are mounting these coolers all over the place).

With mine mounted inside the fender well and the switch on the input side of the cooler, I can run freeways on a 105F day at 70-75 and the oil temp (on a dipstick thermo) hangs at 200F. Would it be different with the switch on the output side of the cooler? Dunno. But I honestly don't think it would make a whole lot of difference one way or the other.

Just my 2 cents.....

gn

Had an interesting,,, but slightly disturbing, experience during an early evening drive today. As is my habit,, when I go to put the car away for the night,,, I take a cruise around the beach front to see what is happening. Actually,, it is Corvette weekend here,, and about 300 of them are filtering into town,, but I digress. It was about 20c degrees outside,, and although I had driven extensively, about 90 minutes earlier, my engine never really warmed past 140 degrees during this 20 minute drive (on the oil temp guage). My engine has a remote cooler, but also has the 175 deg. empi oil bypass thermostat. As I entered a quick sweeping turn, I notice my dash oil pressure light come on. After finishing the turn the light went out. Now I knew that my oil level was ok,, about 3/4 way to the full upper stick mark. So the obvious conclusion is that most of my sump oil (20w50 Castrol, with Lucas stabilizer) was pumped up into the engine, and thus starving the oil pump when combined with the centrifical forces of the turn.

So I am thinkin' that with the cooler fall temp's coming, that I really need a thinner oil in this motor. Once it gets down to 15 degrees outside, I find it can take 45 minutes to an hour to reach 170+ degrees oil temp's. I always keep my rev's low until I get temp's over 120 degrees. But this is the first time that I have ever noticed the oil pressure warning light come on,,, and that is a bit disconcerting. Opinions ??? thanks, Alan

Alan,

You need to keep all the oil in the motor loop until it gets up to "operating" temprature. Then the thermostat opens and it can bypass through the cooler and lower the temprature. You have two loops. A short one that goes through the oil filter and back to the motor is a smaller system then when the bypass thermostat opens it becomes a larger system with the cooler in the loop. As the bypass thermostat opens and closes the oil flow changes but keeps the motor at a proper "operating" temprature.

There is a possibility you have the bypass thermostat in backwards and it is always a big loop. If that is the case then you will take a VERY long time to come up to operating temprature.

Just a thought.

Mark is correct the automatic switch needs to be on the output side of the cooler, period. I also have a switch installed if I ever need extra cooling but so far Henry's idea of the twin oil coolers is keeping the IM-6 at under 185 even on HOT 100+ degree days.

Have fun!

Thanks, Dave,,
Problem is, that at the cooler fall temp's,, the oil never gets to the 175 degrees that it takes to open the oil thermostat. And then it pegs there,, because the cooler can take out so much heat. So what is "operating temperature",,, I used to think it was anything over 120 degrees,, and I would keep my revs down below 3000ish until I had that. But then when my dash light flashed at me last night,, I began to think that operating temperature for this oil (20w50 with Lucas) should actually be a lot higher. And with typical fall temps here,, it could take 45 minutes to an hours driving to get there. So maybe a solution would be to go to a less viscous oil for the colder seasons ??

Gord,, what advantage does tapping the case for "full flow" offer, compared to the cooling tower adapter that I use for both filtration and cooling ??
thanks all,,
Alan