"Thor's Hammer"..?

Rod Ez posted:

Robert M posted:

You should have all the tins installed so you should not be able to see the ground through the engine compartment. Also, most of the cars use a VW bus foam seal to close the final small gap between the tin and the rest of the fiberglass pieces that surround the engine. At least in a Vintage Speedster built car and the CMC's. I'd imagine it'd be the same for an IM.

I'll look for a photo when I come back from physical therapy.

Robert,

What is your opinion on a 36hp doghouse fan and a ram air fan? Which cools better?

My only experience with the Type 1 is with the 36hp doghouse fan and mine cools just fine. Sorry I couldn't help you more on that question.

Rod Ez posted:

 

Robert,What is your opinion on a 36hp doghouse fan and a ram air fan? Which cools better?

By "ram air fan", do you mean a 911 style fan and shroud?

No cooling issues with my 911 shroud set up.

I just noticed that my Beck has a blower built into the left rear engine compartment that draws air in from under the car.  I thought it was a blower assist for hot air to the passenger compartment but there were not any hoses leading inside...So THAT'S what that extra toggle switch is for...

The hoses from that blower DO lead inside through the frame - eventually.  The ones directly from the blower go to the heater boxes.  Check in front of the rear wheels for the frame connection after they come from the heater boxes.

Got a picture of this blower set up?

Actually,  you can see a little of it in this photo, lower left corner. Will send a better one later.

Very cool. A better pic would be great. You need to fill in the heater hose holes in the breastplate over the exhaust, though (if you already have it on your list of things to do I apologize). Al

Mad Duck posted:

Actually,  you can see a little of it in this photo, lower left corner. Will send a better one later.

It could certainly be a heater. Look for a plate/tag/name or something on the device.  If you'll notice, and I can't see how you couldn't, but there are two tennis balls shoved in the air outlet ports on your doghouse cooler. There would normally be a hose called a fresh air tube (but I think you have enough AC knowledge to know that) coming from each of those outlets that would exit through the bottom of the tin and would connect to the heater boxes on your headers.

Since there are no hoses there I would ASSUME the exhaust may have been changed and the new exhaust does not have heater boxes anymore.  This heater might have been installed to get hot air into the cabin.

The first picture is my engine w/ fresh air tubes and the second photo is just something I selected from the internet showing the connection under the car. If your headers don't have the connection for the FA tube that's why you have an external heater. That or the guy lived in a VERY cold place and the car's exhaust heat wasn't enough.

Mad Duck - That is certainly different than mine and is obviously missing some of the heater ducting.  On mine the blower in on the shelve above and in front of the engine,  The ducting goes from the blower through the two holes in the engine compartment tins/floor and into the rear of the heater boxes.  Ducting then comes from the front of the heater boxes to tie into the heat channels in the frame that carry the hot (well, tepid) air to the floor vents and defroster vents.

What year is your car?

Ham never saw actual tennis balls used to block the flow - the can lids yes but not the actual tennis balls.  914 and VW buses has an ad on blower to push air to cars interior.  Without the electric blower air flow was minimal at idle and low speeds.  Where it is here would I guess help cool the heater boxes (which are now gone) too.  Some folks have used the inline plastic boat bilge blowers to increase air flow.  I'd at least put a soup can lid over the holes in the loser tin.

Any vents for a defroster?

I wonder if a previous owner was having overheating issues and thought plugging the holes in the fan shroud would send more cooling air to the heads.

In any case, If the fresh air hoses ARE removed for any reason, the holes in the shroud should be plugged - as described here:

http://www.vw-resource.com/cooling_qa.html

...speaking of my progress in getting the engine out, it AIN'T as easy as pulling a Bug engine.  Can anyone direct me to some more appropriate steps when removing the engine?  It feels like it's WELDED in place!

Meade

Mad Duck posted:

...speaking of my progress in getting the engine out, it AIN'T as easy as pulling a Bug engine.  Can anyone direct me to some more appropriate steps when removing the engine?  It feels like it's WELDED in place!

Meade

When I helped get Teby's motor out of his car it came right out. No fuss, no muss. Just took the air cleaners out, disconnected all the wires, carb linkage, oil lines, and fuel hose. Unbolted it and out it came.

You must have something still hooked up. Gas cable off?

Try pushing in the clutch arm.

Mad duck - What the hell is your real name, anyway?

That little bit of a picture looks like an Eberspacher Airtronic B2 gas heater.  If it is, it should have a 1/8" ID fuel line going into it, as well as an electrical connector of, I think, 4 or 6 wires.  It is missing an air duct but without being there to see it close up, I don't know if it is missing the inlet or outlet duct, although I think we're looking at the inlet end.  If so, no "duct" is needed - it just draws cold air into that end of the heater and blows hot air out the other end, presumably into the cockpit via a round duct to the frame.

Take a look and see if I'm close.

Gordon Nichols posted:

Mad duck - What the hell is your real name, anyway?

That little bit of a picture looks like an Eberspacher Airtronic B2 gas heater.  If it is, it should have a 1/8" ID fuel line going into it, as well as an electrical connector of, I think, 4 or 6 wires.  It is missing an air duct but without being there to see it close up, I don't know if it is missing the inlet or outlet duct, although I think we're looking at the inlet end.  If so, no "duct" is needed - it just draws cold air into that end of the heater and blows hot air out the other end, presumably into the cockpit via a round duct to the frame.

Take a look and see if I'm close.

He's put his name at the bottom of a number of his posts. His name is Meade.

Sometimes I think I AM a Mad Duck...but its Meade Duckworth, and I finally figured out if you take off the the nuts that hold the engine in (and NOT the ones that are holding the transmission mount), it comes right out.  I think this is what I get for teaching learning disabled teenagers for 30 years...I usually get things right on the thrid thidr third try.

Anyway, I'm going to bed; I've got the shroud and most of the tin off, along with the pressure plate (it was tightened to 40-60 pounds!) and clutch disc.  I'll find out more tomorrow. 

Thanks for everybody's help.

:-)

Meade

Meade, that is funny!  Glad you figured it out before taking a sledge hammer to it.

I'm certainly glad that I shined a little bit of humor into someone's life.  Now, I'm going outside and strip it down to the long block before I take it over to the shop.  Then we can discern the damage done from my over tightening the head nuts.

Meade

How do I replace the photo of the yellow ghia with a pice of my Beck? 

Just click the dropdown by your name which brings you to your profile page. Click Edit Profile, then scroll down to Profile Picture/Avatar and replace your Photo. 

Glad to hear you got it figure out Meade.

I was thinking... tennis balls in the shroud is a great way to keep your balls warm.

I'm glad YOU said that, because of course, THAT would never be something that I would say, maybe...

Since you have pressure plate off have them check the torque on the flywheel bolt.  Its like 240 ft #.  If it works loose it take the crank and flywheel +.

You're getting unexpected early dose of THE MADNESS.

...just to update, got the engine apart and I may have mistaken "loose cylinder noise" for "Loud muffler noise", but at any rate, I pulled the heads and discovered that the sleeves were pitted from water.  The heads and valves seem to be ok but I'm having them checked for leakage.  SO, I'm putting on a new set of Mahle 95's, type 3 cooling tins, and a new muffler.  I hope to have it running by next weekend.  The weather is supposed to be non-convertible weather here this weekend anyway.

Will keep everyone posted.

Meade

In regards to Wolfgang's comment on the flywheel gland nut, I couldn't take it off here at the house with my 400# electric torque wrench...but with patience, I got it off with an air impact wrench at the VW place.  When I pulled the pressure plate nuts, would you believe they were all set BETWEEN 30 and 58 pounds??. When I pulled them, some metal shavings came out when I pulled the bolts.  Also, my flywheel bolt was a larger size than the 36mm that comes on the stock motors.

Meade

Why the type 3 tins?

Scat makes the larger flywheel gland nut. Gene Berg Enterprises has a 36mm gland nut that's properly forged and will withstand as much torque as the crank will take. Were the shavings from the bolts or flywheel? And what Bill said- why the type 3 tins?

Meade, you are on the fast track to speedster "Madness"

"The Force" is strong with this one...

I do believe our young Duck is gonna fit right in with us.

...aaarrrgggghhhhh...

I still see a yellow Ghia...

There's debate in VW community on the T3 lower air flow tins and if more effective than stock square bits.  The square OEM T1 VW plate are often lost/discarded in a rebuild --- plus they rattle.  The T3 super cooler bits are inexpensive, look factory, don't rattle and most say they work.

Paul,

There's "debate" in almost any community of people (if by "debate" you mean, "people with strong opinions").  Most (all?) of the people I trust in this "community" long ago stopped debating the merits of T3 "kool-tin", and decided it was an EMPI thing. The ones that are left are generally selling something.

...and that was my understanding.