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That is going to require a lot of work. The top doesn't fit properly and I have no idea why the dash would be a thin piece of wood. Leads me to believe the fiberglass underneath has been removed but not sure why that would be. For a somewhat better assessment it going to take A LOT more than three photos. Full interior front, back, left, and right, engine pictures and specs, front trunk photos, and if possible underbody photos.

Last edited by Robert M

It probably originally had the VINTAGE CMC supplied gauges which are bigger than replacement gauges so rather than fiberglass the larger holes and repaint the dash, they applied the wood. That dash vinal looks bad and the right dash padded piece is missing (they are usually covered with vinyl). Carpet needs replacing and I'm not fan of the Autozone mirrors.  Most likely the original vinyl top (Haartz fabric is more popular now).

Kit was just under $8k back in 1988 (plus shipping from Miami).  That's with no chassis/drive train or wheels.  It came with "finished" gel coat --- but can be prepped and painted.  Things like front disk brakes, nice exhaust and more than a stock 1600 cc engine would add to price.  It does seem to sit high in front and maybe the back (so maybe no beam adjusters in front?) Also check how it is titled and registered - some states are very picky. Take a local SOC guy along to look at it.  The exterior looks good in pictures.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

This may be the car built in 40 hours with a screw driver and a flat bastard file.

I've bought cars that looked worse. It's 40 years old and likely needs a lot of work. I'd not pass it up if the price was right. Like Alan said; it's going to be a lot of work. Building the kit was a lot of work! The quality of the kit parts were similar to what is being used today.

The wood dash could be someone's idea of adding "class" to the project. Wood dash was "English" and looked good on the Triumph's. I doubt that fiberglass was cut out. Bet's it's back there. Looks like VDO instruments.

I think that the skin looks good from the few photo's provided (photo's lie). What about the bones?

I'd bite at the right price. Fixing it up is going to cost more than you think even if you can do all of the work yourself.

If you have to pay someone else don't buy it!

Devil's Advocate here, if what you first see looks poorly done you can be certain the same Artist did that same workmanship throughout the assembly. I've seen speedsters a like this many times over the years. Me, I would classify it as a total resto -rebuild, with that said and the current prices for Speedster related parts you are looking at $12,000 to $15,000 to make it right that being if you can do all the work yourself. Sub-letting body and paint can relieve you of an additional $4,000 - $7,000.   So you're now at $22,000. So what is that shade tree cobbled CMC worth as is ?  In reality , $2000 -$3500 maximum. I am not trying to be a Wisenheimer but speak from experience as this is a labor intensive project that will be a cash dump to make it right .  There are other CMC / FF Speedsters that come up for sale that need way less work.  In the past I would grab just about any Speedster in any condition this one, I would pass on .   Just my .02....if you want to chat message and I'll give you my phone number  ~Alanmoney in hands

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Last edited by Alan Merklin
@Bob: IM S6 posted:

One look at the horrible spacing of the wheels in the wells, tells me it's not worth pursuing.

I think its just the angle of the photo, fact that the fiberglass inner liner (usually painted black) and the fact that the front and back hasn't been lowered is what you are seeing.  Once front is lowered with beam adjusters (or CMC's alternative of cutting and twisting center section) and caster shims added, the front wheels will move forward a bit.

Unless you say take a Super Beetle chassis and weld on a standard bug front end to accept a beam suspension, it is difficult indeed to affect where the body sits on the chassis since 2 bolt mounting holes either side in front and one either side in rear need to match up to CMC steel subframe.  Only real variation is the side to side rear mounting which determines wheel gap on either side --- and that is always off 1/4" (my guess is due to body and subframe factory mounting).

That is a Speedster windshield - I don't see rear view camera rod so not sure if it is maybe laid back a bit or again just photo angle.

Here's original CMC manual layout for the Vintage gauges - it matches the wood layover -

If it runs and drives ok (and is titled ok) - it could be a good $16-17k project start -- IF YOU CAN DO THE WORK YOURSELF and have time and desire.  All car prices seem inflated now plus its beginning of summer so a convertible is high priced (vs November).

Another year or 2 for mine sitting in a barn and I'll advertise mine as a rare "barn find" and ask big premium for patina!

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Last edited by WOLFGANG
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