Throttle cable kit

Hey, that's pretty trick.  

I wasn't clear on your problem description - did the PO weld the throttle cable to the transport tube inside of the tunnel and now it won't move?  

Or...is the transport tube welded to the inside of the tunnel AND you could snake a new cable through it?  

Or....Did you just decide to upgrade to a better cable-transport for the hell of it?

Either way, if you decide to fully use the new system, it might be more difficult to run the new cable sheath through the tunnel.  Not impossible, just harder, BUT!  Once you get to the rear of the cockpit you have to figure a way to get the new sheath through the back of the "K" section of the pan and exit it somewhere near where it is supposed to be (or used to be).  

This is needed in order to make the angle of the cable between the pan and the engine approximately the same as it should be, otherwise it'll bind as it enters the tube going through the fan shroud to the throttle linkage (or at the very least, it'll quickly wear a groove into the front end of the tube).

Because of all that, I would probably try running it through the tunnel.  I don't know how it's supposed to attach at the front, but the old cable tube exits the tunnel just behind the gas pedal and you maybe can use the same location, snake the new sheath through that hole and through the tunnel and find a way to either get it positioned to exit through the same hole behind the torsion bar "K" section.

If that looks impossible (and many things on these cars seem to be) then run it along the floor, out the back next to the brake line, gently angle it up to the throttle cable tube through the fan shroud (leave a nice, gentle bend in it to compensate for engine rock), through the tube and you're (almost) done.

Is this clear or did I obfuscate?

gn

Oh, and don't forget to anchor each end of the sheath.  Otherwise, it'll try to move back and forth as you move the throttle cable.  And grease the hell out of the cable as you run it through the sheath!!  Regular automotive grease is fine.

Assuming both options you are talking about are mounting outside of the tunnel, I'd just run it along the with the brake line in the corner between tunnel and floor.

You will want to anchor the front end of the sheath up where the original cable exited the tunnel so you don't get any odd binding issues with the pedal. And you want the end of the sheath to point in the same line that the cable is exiting so you don't rub through the ends. That is, the sheath should point directly at the place the cable is attaching to.

The back end of the sheath needs to either be anchored solidly to the chassis, or if the sheath is long enough, anchored to the fan shroud. If you anchor it to the fan shroud, you must have enough extra to allow for some slack in the sheath between the motor and chassis, just like the bowden tube that the clutch cable runs through between the chassis and trans. If you don't, when the motor moves, it will pull on the cable and could cause the engine to rev up and down on its own, making for a very difficult to drive car.

And both ends need to be anchored solidly. I don't think the cable clamps that are in that package will be enough. They're ok for the intermediate clamps, but not for either end. What I would do is find that same type of cable clamp at a hardware store, probably need to get one size smaller, remove the rubber cushion, and use some epoxy or JBWeld and glue the clamp to the sheath. That will give you a nice solid mount that can easily be bolted in place.

Thank you both. That helps.

Yes the original throttle cable was stuck in there (following the welding they did) so I had to put a lot of pull on it to get it out. So I'm concerned about crap inside the tube (in the tunnel) that might cause problems.

So I'll run it outside as you suggested. Thanks!

Have you tried blowing compressed air through the tube or even tried fishing a new cable through it?  

Yeah it's pretty tight and jambs so I'm not sure what's in there.

Maybe you could put some bigger cable in an electric drill and run it through the tube.

MIght be too late for this suggestion but my family did a lot of VW work back in the 60s-70s. You only  remove the throttle or clutch cable once without attaching either a string or new cable to the front end.  I will share my problem tho.  Similar grease monkeys welded the tube thru which the clutch cable ran at too much of an angle in tunnel.  Correct cable with with male adjusting barrel would not go thru hoop.

., so I had to buy a long cable, cut off the   adjusting male part, and pull it thru the tunnel and eventually to Bowden tube.  The fun part was anchoring the cable to the clutch lever with the $6 part from BugPack.  PITA.  Hope this helps.  JUst an FYI, the majority of my overage on completion date was unscrewing the crap work that was done by PO.  But , heh, easy to blame others.  I have made some mistakes along the way.