Thunder Ranch build thread

ALB's favorite cheese...........wait for it...........swiss!

Thank you, I'll be every day!

Panhandle Bob posted:

ALB's favorite cheese...........wait for it...........swiss!

Thank you, I'll be every day!

And try the veal!

Sacto Mitch posted:

 

Looking great, Ed.

I'm surprised you're using a Crispix box in the engine compartment, though.

Crispix wasn't introduced by Kellogg's until 1983, and so couldn't have been tossed aside by a mechanic or used for cardboard aided design in the 1950s. The Ralston Purina products that Crispix was developed to compete with, though, were around since the 1930's, so would be much more period correct.

I know, I know, go try to find an original Ralston Purina Rice Chex box today - unobtainium since they were bought out by General Mills 20 years ago, but it's details like that that make all the difference.

 

Mitch you are my target market.

Yeah, I figured as much, Ed.

Just trying to keep you focused.

Blog on the engine insertion process, which was somewhat complicated by my attempt at making it a little easier.

Your link doesn't work, Ed.

I think this is the link.

Ed...I was looking at your link. I noticed that you used your drill press to clean up the hole in your transaxle bracket. Here's a suggestion that makes it easier and faster to to do this on your drill press...........Bruce

It looks better this way. It's made of scrap 3/4" plywood about 12' square and the bottom is closed up too. I just stick my shopvac hose in that hole. (a friction fit). Keeps stuff out of my nose n lungs.....Bruce

I use Unibits, the next step cleans holes nicely.

Ed, those two bottom transmission mount bolts are the bane of Spyder life. Easier to get to when the trans goes in first, then install and tighten. Then goes in the motor, but that's in my car with no torsion bar. I can see why you did it your way.

Do yourself a favor and weld an O2 sensor bung in your exhaust where the two mufflers merge by the tailpipe for tuning purposes.

Gordon Nichols posted:

They always look lighter when still attached to the frame horns.  Get them out onto the floorand suddenly they weigh over 80 pounds.  Still, lighter than the engine.   

Before I disassembled the late model single side cover (I wanted the case with it's offset top webbing for my Berg 5) transaxle I weighed it on the bathroom scale- 72 lbs. I'm sure a swing axle trans, minus only drums and axle nuts must come in at around 95 lbs. 

X-2 what Danny said on the O2 sensor bung...........Bruce

14 hours this weekend and almost no progress. Looking for new bulb sockets for the brake/running lights. Broke one of the lights trying to remove it after putting it on. (Fixed; they're just silicone glued). got no joy testing circuits with the battery in and grounded—power at the light switch at least... Hating my crimp connectors as you can just barely squeeze the shrink tube over them (and only then if you cut the ends off them before crimping). 

I mean dammit all to hell. 

Good news: Vred Sprint Classics came yesterday (the day after I ordered them) so they'll be going on the V-190s tomorrow morning and the spare tire will be mounted as well. So at least I'll be able to cross that off my to-do list.

edsnova posted:

14 hours this weekend and almost no progress. Looking for new bulb sockets for the brake/running lights. Broke one of the lights trying to remove it after putting it on. (Fixed; they're just silicone glued). got no joy testing circuits with the battery in and grounded—power at the light switch at least... Hating my crimp connectors as you can just barely squeeze the shrink tube over them (and only then if you cut the ends off them before crimping). 

I mean dammit all to hell. 

Hey Ed, it still looks brilliant even if some of the lights aren't on yet. I sprang for an upgraded crimper a few months ago when I was laying out the harness. I still hate it, too. Good luck

Mike

Good, cost effective crimper

https://www.amazon.com/TC-1-Ra...0188101524&psc=1

Even with a good quality aviation ratcheting crimper, joints can be at the mercy of a poor quality connector. Now I strip off the plastic part on the connector, crimp, inspect, then solder every joint. That is followed by a well sized heat shrink and sometimes I double that. 

I'm with David.

For headlight connections, this is my crimping tool:

Vreds on V-190s (plus a steel spare with an older Federal). Mounted and balanced, ready to go. This is Chris, my tire/wheel guy. 

I also put in an application for a Carlisle feature spot, in the hut. They want all kinds of pics for this and advise "plain background" and "good light" and obviously they assume the car is, uh, erm... assembled for all this. I uploaded some closeups of some of my talking points (more than 50 unusual Spyderesque details by my count) and emailed  Ed to state my position.

If they green-light me I'm bringing the Spyder, probably on a trailer. 

If not, probably not. She won't have any kind of top and probably the tonneau won't be right by then either so if there's no covered showcase spot I'll pull Bridget's engine and try to get the head gaskets replaced instead. 

Good luck on scoring the hut. Although, if you think about it, it would mean that you have built a trailer queen :-)

Temporary trailer queen, I hope.

Steering shaft is in and adjusted (with a BFH) for proper length and gap. Hey does anyone have a spare steering shaft nut? I had two when i checked a few months ago and now both've gone missing. DM me if you can mail me one.

I keep plugging in wires and I still have nothing by way of operable electrical accessories. 

Lotta what i assume are ground wires aren't attached to anything yet though, so I'mma put the wheels on her and lift her up and take the floor off so I can get my grounding bus squared away.

Also gotta put the clam back on and check to see if the engine fits under it. Looks a little bit high where the pipe comes off the top of the fan shroud. I don't recall anyone ever saying the DTM Type 1 shroud doesn't fit a Spyder. Does anyone know for sure it doesn't?

"...I keep plugging in wires and I still have nothing by way of operable electrical accessories..."

Did you remember to fill the wires with smoke?

NOT A BRITISH CAR!

There must be some electrical bits from Hong Kong - once a British crown colony.

edsnova posted:

Also gotta put the clam back on and check to see if the engine fits under it. Looks a little bit high where the pipe comes off the top of the fan shroud. I don't recall anyone ever saying the DTM Type 1 shroud doesn't fit a Spyder. Does anyone know for sure it doesn't?

If it doesn't, I don't wanna know about it. That shot of a DTM in reverse looks suitably excellent to me. Really stupid-cool.

Ed, some cars will have that top oil cooler hose tube hit the bottom of the clamshell, some not. Lenny's does not hit on his type4 powered Vintage with DTM. I think if it does hit you can flatten it some.

My 911 fan ring used to hit the clamshell under extreme conditions, like banging the next gear very hard, until I installed a stiffer rear trans mount and a transmission strap. There is no movement any more, thankfully.

So you have no working electrical because it's messed up or because you have nothing hooked to the ends of the wires?

Thanks, Danny.

Wires are not all hooked up. I'm trying to get front lights first for that small victory feeling but the car's fighting me.

What bulb sockets do y'all use for the parking/brake/signal lights? The ones I got fit loose and I haven't been able to source more than one (long discontinued) that fits tight. (And yeah I bent the tabs some).

Holes in mine are 1 1/8 inch. 

edsnova posted:

NOT A BRITISH CAR!

Blimey, mate.  More's the pity.  Still, you should be proper chuffed at that.

Ed, I'm not sure you have the time now but maybe you could change that top fan shroud outlet to a square shape then back to round a little lower ?.........Bruce

Update on the Week Of Struggles. Thursday night: 

And this morning.

Also greased up and installed my parking brake cables and then broke one of them while reinstalling the caliper. 

Also, Summit emailed to let me know one of the fittings I ordered can't ship until May 6. Dang! I knew I should've ordered from Allit.

But I did find several steering wheel nuts so at least there's that.

Keeping my fingers crossed

Nah. I think I'm beat. It's been a day, fellas.

Might set this aside and see about replacing Bridget's head gaskets. 

That's looking mighty good.

You're getting there, Ed....

Update. Working on fitting the sway bar now and, surprisingly, there's a lot to do. Like...make more brackets:

Well, the good news is that you should becoming expert at bracket fab by now.......     

Pull your Mig gun Ed, and turn up the heat a little.

Danny, the welder's at max and the penetration is good, I think. It's laying down and stacking up. This is no good?

Made the bar ends today. Will weld them tomorrow.

The village smithy has been hard at work.

Are you at all concerned that welding on the sway bar will weaken it?  I would be concerned that you will change the temper of the spring steel that was used to make it.

Years ago, I read about some guys that cut 2-4” out of stock VW sway bars to use with narrowed beams, but the bars broke in the heat affected zone.