Any welded in height adjustment screws in the middle of the beam?
Yes, the height screws are there, in a bracket welded to the front(s) of the beam. They push on the grub screws and their little aluminum slider housings.
They look like 
I had to fiddle with mine to loosen their grip on the bars.
I have never had any luck hammering on the end of the torsion bar stack-up to try to remove the bars. It always seemed to do more harm than good.
It sounds as if (a.) the center grub screw has somehow distorted the top two thin leaves making it difficult to get the dimpled center of the leaves past the center donut and (b.) that the leaves are rusted together or (c.) that the donut is rusted to the leaves (most likely).
The stack-up is two thins on the bottom, two thicks in the middle and two thins (with the grub screw depression) on the top.
Re-assemble one of the trailing arms to the end of the torsion bar. The other end of the torsion bar should NOT have the trailing arm assembled to it. Use the assembled trailing arm as a sort-of slide hammer base by hammering against the inside of the trailing arm to force the bar stack outward from the center.
Usually the leaves slide right out with moderate effort, but sometimes, if they've become rusted together, they can be a real bear. You could try heating the center donut a bit to see if that releases the leaves - a longer shot, but that sometimes does the trick. IIRC, that center donut is captive in the torsion tube by three dimples tapped into the torsion tube to hold it in place. Feel around the tube and you should feel them. That's why it only goes so far and stops. Putting the grub screw into the center donut (but not all the way in to the top two torsion bars) keeps it from moving more because the screw/bolt has less play and holds it closer.
BTW: I would strongly suggest that you not remove the torsion bad stack entirely, tempted though you may be. They can be a super-duper-major PITA to get back through the square-ish hole in the center donut. Instead, tap against the trailing arm and pull them out to one side so that 4" - 6" of the far side of the bar is still in the center donut, then use your needle bearing puller/slide hammer/reamer to do whatever work you're doing on that side, then push them back in, swap trailing arms and pull it over to the other side to service that side of the tube.
I actually got a bar stack to go in first try once. ONCE. I greased the hell out of everything and put an o-ring around the stack-up to hold them in place and damned if they didn't whistle right through first try. Every other time I had to push two horizontal leaves leaves at a time through and those top two were always a bear.
Congratulated myself for a week, after that.
Thanks, Gordon. Yeah, that's the plan, just shift them over to one side and then the other. I, too, have had them out and had to reassemble the beam.
FWIW, the lower stack is complete with the small leaves, and those six small ones slide easy. It's the four big ones in the center of the stack that won't budge. The upper tube has only those four, and the same issue.
I soaked them again in Liquid Wrench and we'll see what's what tomorrow. I'll try reassembling a torsion arm on one side. Maybe the upper only, as the lower still has the whole hub assembly still attached. 
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@edsnova posted:FWIW, the lower stack is complete with the small leaves, and those six small ones slide easy. It's the four big ones in the center of the stack that won't budge. The upper tube has only those four, and the same issue.
Ed, forgive a stupid question (I'm a complete Luddite when it comes to beams) but could this be the source of your problems? My web search for pictures to help me understand what you were describing shows both the top and bottom stacks having 10 leaves each. 4 wide ones and 3 narrow ones top and bottom.
I can imagine a scenario when everything was tight, until you drove it, when the missing leaves wallered out and damaged the bushing, allowing the play you discovered?
The leaves shouldn't touch the bushing, like ever . If you remove leaves I believe you are supposed to cut some small pieces for each end and the middle adjuster so they don't all get buggered when you lock them in with the grub screws.
@dlearl476 the center mount is machined so the leaves fit just so—you can see this in the pic I posted a few posts above this one. You can remove the small leaves without causing any trouble; the holes are stepped so the leaves can't twist or "waller" out. And, indeed, they have not done so in my application.
It appears VW designed these beams this way deliberately, to allow for easy changes in spring rates on lighter vehicles such as the Spyder.
As Danny says, adding plugs made from cut leaves would be extra insurance, not necessary. I have run my MG TD replica with two sets of 4 leaves in front for most of a decade now, no problem. And it really improves the ride quality and handling.
Oh, also: once the beam is assembled, the leaves can't touch the bearings or the bushings. This is because they are captured inside the trailing arms which ride inside the bushings and bearings.
@edsnova posted:@dlearl476 the center mount is machined so the leaves fit just so—you can see this in the pic I posted a few posts above this one. You can remove the small leaves without causing any trouble; the holes are stepped so the leaves can't twist or "waller" out. And, indeed, they have not done so in my application.
It appears VW designed these beams this way deliberately, to allow for easy changes in spring rates on lighter vehicles such as the Spyder.
As Danny says, adding plugs made from cut leaves would be extra insurance, not necessary. I have run my MG TD replica with two sets of 4 leaves in front for most of a decade now, no problem. And it really improves the ride quality and handling.
Oh, also: once the beam is assembled, the leaves can't touch the bearings or the bushings. This is because they are captured inside the trailing arms which ride inside the bushings and bearings.
Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation.
And we're on to PLAN C.
I tried pushing, pulling, tapping, whacking. I put the control arms back on and tapped and whacked them to try to pull the springs out.
I tried selecting just one leaf at a time with the vice grip to pull on.
I looked carefully at the center adjuster thingie. I looked at another identical adjuster thingie I happen to have in my spares stash.
See that slot? What if I twist the spring pack around until that slot shows in the oval adjustment hole and then I hit it with Liquid Wrench and then try to pry on it with a screw driver to like open it up slightly?
What indeed!?
Nothing is going to get those torsion springs to budge.*
Which means the puller I made to get the old bushings and bearings out will not be working on this beam.
Which means how do I get the new Delrin stuff in place when it comes Tuesday? And HOW CAN I REAM THOSE NEW BUSHINGS AS REQUIRED?
Plan C: Forget the Delrin and just replace the bearing and bushing in the top driver's side.
Complication: New Micarta inner bushings also require reaming.
What to do?
I pulled the OG VW bearings and bushings from my spare beam...
They came out intact.
So now it's down to making an installation tool. I have another washer like the puller washer I can hog out the center square to clear the spring pack, and a piece of pipe with a slightly smaller OD than the top tube's ID. If I cut the end square and tack the washer on centered it should work as a useable drift. I'll mark the depth and try to figure out a way to make it into a press so I don't damage the bushing.
Or there's OPTION D: Pull and wreck the outer bearings and use the drift to drive the inner bushings in farther, then install the Delrin, after first installing in the spare beam and pre-reaming it there, then pulling it out.
WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING WITH MY LIFE I'M SUPPOSED TO BE A GODDAMN WRITER!!
==
*Some of you may be wondering why I have made no mention of the Flame Hammer. The reason is simple: The beam is under a 1/4 full gas tank and surrounded on all sides by fiberglass. Also it is chock full of grease. Could a torch be used? Sure! I could just remove the fuel tank and shroud the fiberglass with whatever. Can you tell me the smoke point of the grease that's been pumped into the beam? How about the powder coat? AND WHY IS THIS NECESSARY??
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I would take some time away, Ed.
It's troubling to see a writer resort to all caps and doubled punctuation.
I worry that you're reaching some tipping point from which there's no return. You don't want future generations looking back and summarizing your life in the sad story of Ed and the torsion bars.
These are simple, mechanical things. We have the ability to reason and opposable thumbs. Over centuries, we have shown that we can master mechanical things and make them do our bidding.
Maybe some trout fishing or a few days on the Chesapeake will help you reset?
When you come back, you can buy a bigger hammer.
What Mitch said. We get smarter when we get away from the problem.
The 356 style center adjusters that we use look the same as what you have. They may be different (likely are) but just in case... our have a hidden set screw that locks the bars to the center section, and then a 2nd exposed set screw at the adjuster. I'm sure you've looked, so this may not be your issue, but just in case rotate the leaves 360 and look for a hidden set screw while you rotate.
Also, i can't tell how yours are attached. I've seen versions where you cut out a section of the beam and weld in the adjuster to replace the section you cut out, and there are versions where you mill a slot and just weld the adjuster bracket to the existing beam. If yours is the former, I can see where it would be easy to have a blow through in the weld that would act as a permanent stop locking the center section in place.
holy ****.
THERE IS ANOTHER SET SCREW HIDDEN INSIDE THE MECHANISM THAT YOU CAN ONLY SEE IF YOU ROTATE THE MF AFTER REMOVING WHAT YOU THOUGHT WAS THE GODDAMN SET SCREW??
And thank you, @Sacto Mitch, it's the trout fishing what did it.
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Welp...
Quarter inch allen fits these. You can reach the lower one by feel if you stand directly under it and feel around and curse until your finger joints scream as loud as you do.
So that's good.
Pulled the outer bearing on the passenger upper but the inner bushing is stuck. I got the puller working and then it sort of "popped" and came out and now I can't get it back in so that's cool.
The honest truth is that I really did just about give up fishing for this hobby.
I'm an idiot.
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Is that picture where the wrench hit the wall when you threw it? 🥴
Either that or Ed's foot......
@edsnova posted:Welp...
Quarter inch allen fits these. You can reach the lower one by feel if you stand directly under it and feel around and curse until your finger joints scream as loud as you do.
So that's good.
Pulled the outer bearing on the passenger upper but the inner bushing is stuck. I got the puller working and then it sort of "popped" and came out and now I can't get it back in so that's cool.
The honest truth is that I really did just about give up fishing for this hobby.
I'm an idiot.
OK, so I have been of no help at all on this one. I have NEVER seen a double set screw donut on any of the 8 or so VW front ends I've pulled apart or modified for adjustable height mods (and I always used the Berg "Avis-style" adjusters for mine).
I'm filing this one away so that future jobs won't go through what Ed has had to endure.
Sorry, Ed........
I'm glad at least that puzzle is solved, Ed. Here's wishing you smoother sailing from here on.
Good to see you getting back to lower case again, Ed.
Yeah..... Wouldn’t want to see you turning into GERD, after all......
Somethings take a long time to learn or figure out.... just life
Ed, if it makes you feel any better, your explanation of the missing leafs in your beam kind of explains why my front suspension feels pretty supple (now that I switched the KYB shocks and 18psi in the size tires Carey recommends) and my rear end feels like a "Hardtail."
Which begs the question: does anyone sell thinner torsion bars for the rear? I don't think I've ever seen anything but thicker ones. My older Beck doesn't have adjustable spring plates and I'm thinking of updating that. I'd love to put in lighter torsion bars when I do that, if they're available.
This is the only thing I found in a short search:
https://www.kartek.com/parts/s...ar-torsion-bars.html
You could contact Sway-Away direct to see if they have smaller, custom bars.
@Gordon Nichols posted:This is the only thing I found in a short search:
https://www.kartek.com/parts/s...ar-torsion-bars.html
You could contact Sway-Away direct to see if they have smaller, custom bars.
Good idea, I need to call them about the spring plates anyway.
Doh! My Selective Vision Disorder strikes again. I could have sworn that SA only listed two bars when I looked at their site the other day; OEM and +2mm. In my defense, I was looking at the OEM VW page. I'll drop Carey a line and ask him what he uses.
@Gordon Nichols posted:This is the only thing I found in a short search:
https://www.kartek.com/parts/s...ar-torsion-bars.html
You could contact Sway-Away direct to see if they have smaller, custom bars.
So, this is kind've weird.
Like a lot of guys of a certain age and disposition, I have problems staying asleep. I fall asleep easily, but after about 4-5 hrs, I wake up and have a lot of difficulty going back to sleep.
I ended up buying a limo as a result of such a night. Last night, I amused myself for about 2 hrs in the sway-away site, looking at this very information. FWIW, I'd definitely call Carey before switching to something lighter. With a swing axle, I'd be leery of doing anything that might induce snap-oversteer.
I think one of the TD replica guys pulled his torsion bars and had them turned down a couple thousandths and put them back. This was before my time on the board though and the guy who (reportedly) did that has not been heard from in years. Paul Mossberg might know the story.
Further progress: The passenger side upper beam is clear. The inner bushing in that side came out pretty chewed up, but I am as yet unsure if my puller thingy did the damage.
I now must make a new, slightly larger, puller thingy for the lower needle bearing, as it is just a hair larger than the uppers. It appears the lower inner bushing is the same size as the uppers though.
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I guess we have to thank Carey again !! I certainly had no idea about the extra set screw !! Knowing me, I would have torn up the front end to find out why !
Question : Why would someone put that set screw in there ? Was it to hold the center piece and the torsion bars in their position during assembly and welding ?......Bruce
No idea, Bruce. I saw the threaded hole on my spare and stupidly figured it was builder's choice as to which one got the set screw. I know the sand guys use these adjusters to raise their suspension so I just assumed the second hole was there to give them a 90-degree different option along the outside of the tubes to weld these in.
Anyway, now we know. Very much thanks to @chines1, without whose advice I might have been seriously injured, as we shall see.
Progress today. The Delrin bushings came.
I went out after dinner and slid one on the upper trailing arm. Nice tight fit. Then I pressed it into the beam. It slipped right in with just a little persuasion from the palm of my hand. Checked the trailing arm again and perfect: tight but not too tight. No reaming required.
I made a new, slightly larger puller for the lower bearing and pulled both of them before switching back to the smaller cut washer to pull the inner bushings with. But when I poked around in the beam I could not feel the "step" indicating the presence of an inner bushing. This was true on both sides.
!
I went back to my spare beam and did the same thing, easily finding the bushings in that one.
So I guess it's a good thing I went through this process.
I'll clean out the grease and shine a light in, and dig around in there tomorrow. If they're gone that makes the job easier: just drill out the dimples and install a couple small sheet metal screws to hold the new ones, then press them in until the screws stop them, then put the outers in and reassemble.
Of course if I find the old bushings I'll extract them.
It makes no sense to me that the inner bushings would be MIA in three out of the four corners of this beam. Again, I had previously shaken these wheels (feeling for bearing lash) finding no appreciable play. And I drove the car about 5-10 kilometers through these suburban streets.
So I am well and truly stumped. Which I guess is pretty normal.
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Well, at least after you're done with the bushings the beam will be safe and true.
It really sucks when you have to do work that thought was done already. I do feel that particular pain!
When you get the bushing set in place- don't forget to pull the zerk fittings out and drill through the bushings so they will lubricate the trailing arms as intended.
Ya know, Isn't that set screw what holds the entire suspension together ? I was visualizing the whole assembly and when I got to that part it dawned on me that if that set screw isn't in there, the entire torsion bar could move, causing the control arm to start sliding out it's bearing along with all the suspension. tire. etc, and Ba - Boom !
Of course both torsion bar set screws would have to be missing for the whole suspension to com off. Then its possible both sides of the suspension could fall off !
Maybe the sway bar would hold them in until the problem is discovered ? Looks like those set screws are pretty important or I'm missing some other attachment to prevent this problem.........Bruce
There are control arms on either end that would keep everything together.
What Stan said....
The 4 rather large grub screws with lock nuts in each trailing arm keep it together.
Glad to see those bushings arrived protected by the now discarded mask AND "Pilfer Protection" tape.
These are trying times and.....
( Thought you might need a chuckle, Ed! )
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Bruce when you think about it, loss of the center grub screws would just set the front of the car down on the ground.