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Use loctite. Check them often.
The VW manual recommends the following for torquing wheel lugs:
4-lug (bolt) pattern: 90 ft. lbs.
5-lug (nut) pattern: 72 ft. lbs.
I don't know the torque setting for alloy nuts if you're running 5-lug alloy rims - maybe someone else can help here (George B.?) but I know alloy nuts a have a different (lower) setting because they may be softer.
Also, if you're using an aluminum (typically cast, at that) adapter ring, they tend to be softer overall so I would use the earlier suggestion of applying locktite to the 4-bolt bolts and torquing them to around 75 - 80 ft. lbs so you don't mess up the adapter.
In my experience, I have cast adapters from SoCal that came from Taiwan. The rings were OK, but the adapter stud (the one that goes in the "special" hole which is the only common hole between the two bolt patterns) had a 19mm flanged nut welded on it. The hole through the nut was not straight, such that when you torqued the stud down it would actually cause the stud to deflect slightly making the wheel both hard to get on and then run slightly out-of-round causing vibration around 70 mph. Dremeling off the weld and replacing the nut with a higher quality (read that: straighter) flanged nut fixed the problem.
4-lug (bolt) pattern: 90 ft. lbs.
5-lug (nut) pattern: 72 ft. lbs.
I don't know the torque setting for alloy nuts if you're running 5-lug alloy rims - maybe someone else can help here (George B.?) but I know alloy nuts a have a different (lower) setting because they may be softer.
Also, if you're using an aluminum (typically cast, at that) adapter ring, they tend to be softer overall so I would use the earlier suggestion of applying locktite to the 4-bolt bolts and torquing them to around 75 - 80 ft. lbs so you don't mess up the adapter.
In my experience, I have cast adapters from SoCal that came from Taiwan. The rings were OK, but the adapter stud (the one that goes in the "special" hole which is the only common hole between the two bolt patterns) had a 19mm flanged nut welded on it. The hole through the nut was not straight, such that when you torqued the stud down it would actually cause the stud to deflect slightly making the wheel both hard to get on and then run slightly out-of-round causing vibration around 70 mph. Dremeling off the weld and replacing the nut with a higher quality (read that: straighter) flanged nut fixed the problem.
AIM industry is a leader in adaptors. there out of phoenix, take a look.