Time delay headlight off switch

Some ideas:

http://www.liteminder.com/left.html

http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=270782084530

And only $6. If anyone has one of these, interested in what you think of it.

Holy Cow!  An "Octal" socket on the ebay unit.  I haven't seen one of those vacuum-tube-style sockets since my Ham Radio days.

I also run with my lights on for safety.

 

To remind me that my lights are on, I wired a single LED light (blue) to my headlight switch and attached it just below the dash by the ignition switch where it would be most visible as I turn off the car.

 

$2 @ Pep Boys, Auto Zone or your local auto parts store. 

The most simple solution is to run your headlamps off of the run circuit rather than battery.  Due to the current draw through the ignition switch you probably need to add a relay to the the ignition switch.

I have a big set of fog lights that I use as day time running lights.  I have them wired up to my ignition, with a switch under the dash, so I can turn them off when I want.

My lights come on with the ignition.

Tom: don't think I want a buzzer to nag me, although it might work fine.  And the other relay is rather low amps.

 

I think I'll just use a 12 v relay (have seen many available on-line) enabled by the ignition switch in the run position.  Turn off the ignition, and the circuit to the headlights goes off.  Time delay would be cute, but not really needed.

Agreed Kelly.  After thinking about, that's the right way to do it.

 

It's a good idea to run your lights through a relay, anyway, especially considering that most of us have repop headlight switches of questionable origin. My VS came with no relay. All of the current for the headlights and running lights went through that switch. Or it did for a little while, anyway.

 

There are few Speedster moments so memorable as a lazy drive down that perfect country road on a warm, summer evening, an orange sun settling slowly beneath the horizon, and a delicate wisp of gray-blue smoke curling gently up from under the dashboard.

 

 

I think most switches run the main headlights current through the switch.  I have some pretty bright driving lights that suck a lot of current, and these have been wired up w/a relay working off the dash switch.

My lights work off the dash switch, but the switch simply provides power signal to a relay that actually *powers* the lights.  Safer to not run a ton of power through the older switches.

 

The other benefit is that the switch may introduce a drop in voltage (smaller wires / old technology / etc.) If you use a relay you're putting 12v to the bulbs. Brighter bulbs are always a good thing.

Ted

As has been covered before, use a 6v switch. It can handle twice the current, so will last a lot longer at the 12v we run. The trick is to find one.

 

The relay idea is a very good one, but the 6v switch is super easy. I didn't have to grind the backside of the dash or anything, and even used the same escutcheon. Swap wires and you're done.

 

The new switches we get today are absolute CRAP.

I just installed LED headlights so I don't need to be so concerned with current.

Pictures and information please, Mike.

I have wanted to switch to LED headlights for a couple of years at least. The early ones available didn't look like they belonged on a Speedster and some extended forward so I thought they might hit the glass.

 

Finally I found some that look like a conventional sealed beam or halogen lights.

 

They are Hella H4 units that are modified to use LED bulbs.

 

I got them from The Mustang Project:

 

http://mustangproject.com/Prod...0c-9630-58236775e1af  

 

They have a heat sink on the back that hit the back of the headlight cavity on my car so I cut a 4" diameter hole and glued in a 4" diameter metal storage thing I found to make space for the heat sinks.

 

Now everything on my car is LEDs except the alternator light and I just realized I haven't converted the license plate and backup lights. Alternator light has to stay incandescent.

 

I also recently swapped the glass covers for the grilles. I don't think attempts to put these over the glass are totally successful. But, I also don't like having things open.

 

I am going to vacuum form some plastic to fit the back side of the grilles. I have purchased the vacuum forming device but haven't yet told my wife I want to heat the plastic in her oven. The company that sells the device says to keep a fire extinguisher handy but that would probably increase the likelihood of her objecting.  

 

 

"...but that would probably increase the likelihood of her objecting."

 

Ya think?

 

How do the lights compare in brightness? I just converted to HID and am impressed with them.

As to the original post, this job may be closer to the forefront than I realized.  Last night, after a very relaxing and enjoyable dinner w/ Cory and Jenni at a local tavern, we went to drive our respective Speedsters to our respective homes, and I have no lights.  It is dark.  The dash switch has no effect.  However, I do notice that if I work the high beam switch, incorporated into my turn signal lever, the brights come on: high beams plus the driving lights.  Well, OK, this might get us home, 20 mins away.  Have to hold the momentary switch  on the turn signal stalk down to keep the lights on, but OK, I can deal w/ that.  Many on-coming drivers are not liking the brights in their eyes, but too bad.  Country lanes to home.  I can manage.  Except about 1/2 way home, the lights go permanently out.  No way to do nothin', nohow.  Did I mention that it was dark?  So we limped on home using the very small flashlight to sort of see the road edge.  Dragged my foot on the brake pedal to light up brake lights.  turn signal worked, so put that on too.  Was very worried about being seen, and not so much about actually seeing. Made it home.  So now to dope out the problem (fuse??) replace this cheap-ass switch, and wire up the new relay, per prior ideas above.

 

are we having fun yet??

 

Frazer, when my own switch went up in smoke, I was forced to learn a lot more than I ever wanted to about these headlight switches.

 

Here's the thread:

 

https://www.speedsterowners.com...t-a-headlight-switch

 

 

It sounds like you may have burned out both the headlight switch and then the dimmer switch (by holding in the 'flash to pass' button for a long time).

 

On my VS, the dimmer switch is a separate button under the dash that controls an actual relay (one of the few wiring details they got right). It could be that your 'flash to pass' switch is just that - a switch, not a relay, that wasn't intended to handle high current for more than a second or two.

 

So how could your lights still work even after the headlight switch died?

 

The dimmer and 'flash to pass' circuits are powered independently of the headlight switch. If you think about it, they have to be. Suppose you want to flash your headlights at someone during the day when your headlights are switched off?

 

The confusing thing is that the power lead for the dimmer circuit usually comes from a terminal on the headlight switch that is always 'hot' - the one that is wired to the fusebox (and that also does supply power for the headlight switch).

 

But the power for the dimmer and headlight flash circuits doesn't pass through the headlight switch, so they will work even if the headlight switch is dead.

 

If this all sounds like gobbledy gook, find someone who knows electrics and have them help you troubleshoot. These cars all seem to be wired differently, so you'll need to do some detective work to find out what's up.

 

After that last thread, I put in relays for the headlights and running lights, so was able to use the replacement Chinese switch that Kirk sent me without any more problems. If you go that route, make sure you don't hook up the instrument lights to that switch.

 

 

 

Lane, I can't really say how they compare in brightness from personal experience because I haven't driven in the dark with the new ones.

 

One place on the website is says 2400 lumens each and another place it says 3600 lumens. The 2400 might be from an earlier version.

 

Here is a video of an installation on one side in a Mustang:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXjPSn1McKA 

Yeah, I can't see that going over too well in this house either..

Sacto:  Even tho I be an Mechanical Engineer, I nevertheless have always had good luck nuking out circuits.  Back in school when the MEs had to take EE lab, I was the guy who always wired up the experiments after the other guys figured out the theory.  I understand how relays work, and think I can deal w/ this one, if I can find the bloody thing.  And the stalk switch is click-to-turn-on and click-to-turn-off type thing, when working properly.  Momentary on and momentary off.  I have also thought that using it in an always-closed position may have fried something.  I did not notice any peculiar electrical type smells after I got home, however.  Also, have not had a chance to get after this yet, but maybe this week.  More to come.

I was always leaving my lights on and then I installed one of those "lights on" buzzers, what a battery saver!