@Larry Scislowicz posted:

Happy Thanksgiving to all!....well we got our first frost down here along the coast of NC, so it is time to put the Hartop on Speedy until it warms up a bit.....

😄 In late January, right? Happy Thanksgiving back at you.

Looks like you have a CMC? If so, what is the hardtop off of and how much modifying is needed it to fit my CMC narrow fender. Thanks

Hi....when I purchased the car the Hard top came with it. It is my understanding that once the owner purchased the Hard Top it needed to be custom fit to the CMC widebody, along with having the side curtains fabricated to fit the car perfectly. The fellow who actually did the Hard Top modification was Alan Merklin (Dr. Clock) a member of this club who did a great job! For more info on how you can get a Hardtop for your CMC narrow fender and how it will need to be modified I would go directly to Alan to get the straight scoop on what it will take.

Good Luck!

@Heritage 2008 posted:

Looks like you have a CMC? If so, what is the hardtop off of and how much modifying is needed it to fit my CMC narrow fender. Thanks

I believe all hardtops require custom fitment to each car. The windshield placement fore and aft and possible different corner post angle require this.

The bodies are the same between narrow and wide with the exception of the fender flares.

I recall DrClock had to cut top side to side and add in some fiberglass.  There is a thread here on the work.  It does look great!

Altering that top was a labor intensive,  spent half a day making enough carboard templates to build a kid's play house. Finally figured out where to cut across the top L to R at the right place on the radius. That was the most difficult part of the fitment. The top needed to be extended 2 1/2" inches so I made up some sheet metal temp plates ,screwed them in place from the top down only to find that doing so changed the radius arch. The second attempt was using heavy cardboard against the underside glassing that in place with a wide area of glass outside the carboard margins.  As that began to set up, I put back a couple of the upper sheet metal plates  by screws adjusting the screw tension found the correct radius then let that set up overnight. Cut out the cardboard template applied glass cloth and resin to the underside, let that set up then removed the sheet metal plates and screws glass cloth and resin that area. Lastly sand and fill a few times, shot some sealer, primer base and clear coat, NO matter what I did I couldn't get the back plexi glass to seat into the rubber plexi glass to hard top lip, so I had a friend from a local glass shop drop by.....boom, done in ten minutes with the right tools.  The top came out nice but I don't think I would do another though.

Am I guessing that the top was made for a non-replica Speedster, Alan? And you had to add LENGTH to the top?

So to answer @Heritage 2008 a top made for a replica could be fitted(and it will require fitting) to any replica? I think?

When Rusty-Tubs sold the hard tops, they had one for real Speedsters and one for replicas.  The replica one has the rear base untrimmed so it could make up for different windshield positioning.  I don't believe the tops are available any longer (not is Rusty-Tubs).

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Not a hard top. But this hard tonneau does keep air out of the passenger compartment. I just crank the heated seats and I can drive the car comfortably into the 40s.

I made this prototype tonneau for cooler weather driving. It's a bit thin, but I just got some canvas wax that I'm going to use to stiffen it up and also add some waterproofing. This one requires getting in the car Speed Racer style, but I have an idea for using the door for the next one.

It works very well in keeping the breeze out of the cockpit.

Carlos. That’s very cool. I mean warm. I bet it works very well. Hey I always get in and out Speed Racer style. I can’t remember the last time I opened the door.

@DannyP posted:

Am I guessing that the top was made for a non-replica Speedster, Alan? And you had to add LENGTH to the top?

So to answer @Heritage 2008 a top made for a replica could be fitted(and it will require fitting) to any replica? I think?

Yes add to the length and I forgot to mention that you need a hollow bulb weatherstrip along the bottom to conform the tub shape.