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No need to have the steering wheel locked ..it will track nicely while free steering..I've had it up to 75 mph flat towing with no broblems. As a heads up most states now require safety chains to the towed vehicle too.
Dave, do not lock steering when towing. I have towed many miles and many different vehicles. When towing my Honda Element, it is specifically noted to put key into position to unlock wheel. I towed my 67 VW sedan to Laguna Seca and did nothing to "lock" wheel. I towed a VW Thing across the USA and all ovwer the West coast with steering unlocked. I would like to see your towbar set up for the speedie!
David, I have over 1500 miles of flat towing my Spyder, 3 years to Carlisle and back.
DO NOT EVER lock the steering wheel. The caster will keep them straight and actually make it tow easier.
DO NOT BACK UP. If you must reverse, disconnect and manually push it, then re-attach. Gentle turns in parking lots, swing WIDE. I try to be very conscious of where I am going, sight far ahead. 65 mph is my top speed when towing. I have hit 70 on downhills, but I don't stay there, as I am using a Subaru as a tow vehicle. An extra 1500 pounds is very obvious under braking, leave lots of room in front of you.
I usually carry some stuff in the cockpit, but I tie it down solid so it can't move and hit anything. You don't want anything to touch the steering, shifter, and brakes. Even if something leans against the shifter it can cause trans damage.
After a couple hours, stop and check everything. I usually feel the trans with my hand, and it does get warm, but not alarmingly so. I have synthetic gear oil in mine, as a precaution.
My taillights are hooked up to the tow vehicle, a good idea I think.
DO NOT EVER lock the steering wheel. The caster will keep them straight and actually make it tow easier.
DO NOT BACK UP. If you must reverse, disconnect and manually push it, then re-attach. Gentle turns in parking lots, swing WIDE. I try to be very conscious of where I am going, sight far ahead. 65 mph is my top speed when towing. I have hit 70 on downhills, but I don't stay there, as I am using a Subaru as a tow vehicle. An extra 1500 pounds is very obvious under braking, leave lots of room in front of you.
I usually carry some stuff in the cockpit, but I tie it down solid so it can't move and hit anything. You don't want anything to touch the steering, shifter, and brakes. Even if something leans against the shifter it can cause trans damage.
After a couple hours, stop and check everything. I usually feel the trans with my hand, and it does get warm, but not alarmingly so. I have synthetic gear oil in mine, as a precaution.
My taillights are hooked up to the tow vehicle, a good idea I think.
As mentioned, DO NOT LOCK THE STEERING when using a tow bar wherein the towed vehicle has all 4 tires on the ground. As soon as they lock, the front tires will scrub as you try to make a corner.
I know this to be a fact. Years ago, I had a 1991 Toyota 4 wheel pickup that I towed behind my motorhome. I had to put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position then turn the key back to the position where I could remove it from the lock and, keep the key in the ignition lock. On one occasion, I forgot to do that procedure and left the camp ground. As soon as I turned onto the street leaving the RV park, it was totally apparent that something was wrong. I stopped, re-positioned the key and all was well once the front wheels of the Toyota could turn and follow my motorhome.
It's possible that the instructions were originally written in Chinese and translated by someone in China and therefore made a drastic mistake in the interpretation
I know this to be a fact. Years ago, I had a 1991 Toyota 4 wheel pickup that I towed behind my motorhome. I had to put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position then turn the key back to the position where I could remove it from the lock and, keep the key in the ignition lock. On one occasion, I forgot to do that procedure and left the camp ground. As soon as I turned onto the street leaving the RV park, it was totally apparent that something was wrong. I stopped, re-positioned the key and all was well once the front wheels of the Toyota could turn and follow my motorhome.
It's possible that the instructions were originally written in Chinese and translated by someone in China and therefore made a drastic mistake in the interpretation
Thanks guys
COOL!!
Sounds like a nice custom bar Dave. I would like to see it when complete. Let's get together soon.
Dave, I can't wait to see that when you're done. You said you were going to remove the bumper support bracket -- I removed mine so long ago that I don't remember if that grew off the axle beam or not.
If you put the new pieces in using the U-bolts, what's going to keep them from flexing up and down?
Will you attach to the lower beam, and use some sort of gussets to brace against the upper beam?
If you wind up welding anything, you'd have to disassemble the beams and de-grease them before firing up the old Miller, I would think.
Good luck -- and throw a picture or two up, will ya? I have a similarly low front end, and your idea is of keen interest to me. I've thought about a super-low tow bar since I first saw Danny towing with his Subaru, but I just haven't been able to figure out how to make it work.
If you put the new pieces in using the U-bolts, what's going to keep them from flexing up and down?
Will you attach to the lower beam, and use some sort of gussets to brace against the upper beam?
If you wind up welding anything, you'd have to disassemble the beams and de-grease them before firing up the old Miller, I would think.
Good luck -- and throw a picture or two up, will ya? I have a similarly low front end, and your idea is of keen interest to me. I've thought about a super-low tow bar since I first saw Danny towing with his Subaru, but I just haven't been able to figure out how to make it work.
I recently saw pictures of a tow bar that attaches to the beam and extends past the bumper with the first part. The second part (which is the part that attaches to the tow ball) is connected to the first part with 2 pins. The good thing is that the up and down pivot point is between the vehicles and should not come in contact with the body work. The drawback is that the first part remains bolted to the beam and extends a few inches past the bumper for the duration of the use of the vehicle. (unless you unbolt it from the beam, of course) This looked like a very quick and easy hook-up and I would like to see one in the flesh, but now I can't even find the picture. I hope this post makes sense.
I'm also thinking about a 2 wheel dolly. Anyone with expreience with these?
I'm also thinking about a 2 wheel dolly. Anyone with expreience with these?
Al - I looked hard at two wheel tow dollies. Both rentals and new purchases come with the strict stipulation that the towed vehicle MUST face forward. Don't know if that is a common state law or what? Anyway, between that limitation, pricing, and my frequency of use, I decided flat towing made more "cents".
Yes, when towing I must remove my nerf bars and replace them with my new towing extension arm. I only tow 1000 miles two times per year. Replacing nerf bars at trip's end in not an issue.
By the way, my new "tow worthy" front bumper support arms, attach to both upper and lower beams, plus my lower beam also has a "beam support arm", described in previous threads here, that ties it back into the floor pan. So loads should be spread out quite nicely.
By comparison, the "standard" VW Beetle tow bar only attachs to the lower beam.
Yes, when towing I must remove my nerf bars and replace them with my new towing extension arm. I only tow 1000 miles two times per year. Replacing nerf bars at trip's end in not an issue.
By the way, my new "tow worthy" front bumper support arms, attach to both upper and lower beams, plus my lower beam also has a "beam support arm", described in previous threads here, that ties it back into the floor pan. So loads should be spread out quite nicely.
By comparison, the "standard" VW Beetle tow bar only attachs to the lower beam.
The reason the car must face forward is due to the front tires and their caster.
If you can lock the front tires in a forward position then it will work. Most steering columns won't lock with the tires facing forward, they always seem to be a bit off which will make the car tow a bit sideways. By the way, If the front tires are not locked, they will turn left or right as soon as you pull forward. I've seen people who have tied their steering wheel to the seat frame, (usually in 2 places) to keep their front tires pointed straight.
If you can lock the front tires in a forward position then it will work. Most steering columns won't lock with the tires facing forward, they always seem to be a bit off which will make the car tow a bit sideways. By the way, If the front tires are not locked, they will turn left or right as soon as you pull forward. I've seen people who have tied their steering wheel to the seat frame, (usually in 2 places) to keep their front tires pointed straight.