Skip to main content

 

One of the cool things about the Speedster is that it makes you really think about little stuff you've managed to ignore all your life.

 

Like headlight switches.

 

I've been driving for half a century and have owned various cars for fifteen, eighteen, twenty years and more, without ever having a headlight switch that needed attention. Until now.

 

From day one, my headlight switch has been wonky. Wonky in ways that have been recorded by others in the archives of this forum. The instrument light dimmer has always had two settings - full-on bright or flickering between off and too dim. As time wore on, it was more flicker than anything else. And the parking lights have come on almost as soon as the switch is touched - before the switch is pulled out to the first stop.

 

After a twilight cruise the other night, I went to turn the lights off and almost couldn't. With the switch pushed in, the lights would pop back on of their own free will. I reached under the dash to feel the back of the switch and learned you shouldn't do that. Unless you like putting your hand inside a waffle iron and closing the lid.

 

The doctor says the bandages can come off in about two weeks.

 

VS is sending me a replacement switch for which I'm grateful. But it will be the same as the one that branded its mark onto my palm. Made with the same craftsmanship and painstaking attention to detail. The Chinese seem to have a genius for reducing the production costs of the most reliable device to the point where it will fail. I'm glad they don't make number two pencils.

 

So, desperate to become a true Speedster owner, I set about making a good thing even better. There must be a simple way to fix this without Chinese parts. There is! You can get a German switch online for sixty bucks - yikes! Not the cowboy way.

 

After an hour upside down under my dash and another hour deciphering a helpful wiring diagram posted here by Gordon Nichols, I came to two conclusions:

 

  1. The wiring in my VS only vaguely resembles the original VW wiring
  2. Neither VW or VS have used proper headlight relays in their wiring

 

We may have a dimming relay to switch between high and low beams, but all of the current for the headlights is still run through the headlight switch.

 

Aha! That's it. That's why the friggin underweight, under-engineered headlight switch is getting so hot. I'll just rewire and go get a couple decent, made in the US, properly rated switches that can handle the headlight current. That current isn't really that high - about six amps for the old school sealed beam lamps that are standard issue on my car. Which is probably why VW left out headlight relays in the first place.

 

But if I use a simple toggle switch for the lights, how do I adjust the brightness of the instrument lights? Simple. While rewiring, I'll just add a separate 'pot' (potentiometer) for that. Just like in real cars.

 

Off to the downtown, full-quality, top-dollar electronics store that stocks genuine, made in the US (well, made in Canada, actually) bits and pieces. Rough calculations told me a 50-ohm pot should be about right. And the beefy thing was rated at two watts - which had to be enough to handle some tiny instrument bulbs.

 

Do you remember from your school days what you make when you assume?

 

Back at home. Patch in the new pot for test. Power on.

 

Ppppfffffttttt!

 

Never has ten bucks gone up in smoke so fast.

 

More calculations and meter readings tell me I'm going to need one mother of a pot to handle this load. Back to the store for the amateur electronics technician's last resort - power resistors. Twenty freakin watts worth of power resistors. More juggling and calculating and testing finds the right combination of bits to properly dim the lights and not cook the power resistors.

 

But, hokey smokes, who'd have thought the little dash lights could be the circuit that generates so much heat?

 

I'm starting to think that it's not the main switch contacts for the headlights that are burning out the cheesy Chinese switches but the lightweight pot they contain for dimming the instrument lights.

 

One of the cool things about the Speedster is that it makes you really think about little stuff you've managed to ignore all your life.

 

 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Right? You had that $60 spent at "two hours upside-down under the dashboard."

 

But the headlight relays are a good idea. I went with them a couple years ago and feel much safer.

 

Just wire your headlights through standard relays and use a regular $60 German-made headlight switch and--providing you don't cross any wires--you will never have to think about it again. 

 

If you document the job step-by-step and save the file somewhere (like here, though old fix files tend to get buried fast) you will be a great resource the next time a noob titles their thread "Headlight Switch."

 

Another little epiphany tonight, as I was working on the headlight switch re-engineering project.

 

I finally did what I should have done first. I pulled one of the instrument light bulbs and read the itty-bitty little numbers on the base.

 

It's a five-watt bulb! About twice as bright as I will ever need. If I put in three-watt bulbs, I won't need to dim them at all - no pot, no power resistors.

 

So, why might you care about this?

 

Well, if you put in bulbs small enough that you can turn the headlight switch dimmer all the way up, the switch no longer has to dissipate any heat from the instrument light circuit. And if that's where most of the heat in the switch was coming from, the switch should run A LOT cooler. And maybe not burn out at all.

 

Remember too, that the original switch was designed to power two instrument light bulbs (I think). Maybe three. Our cars have six. So the dimmer circuit is carrying 2-3 times the current it ever did in any VW.

 

I know this isn't half as exciting as the thread about running 10W-40 oil to lower oil pressure, but I'm from Sacramento.

 

I'm easily amused.

 

 

Mitch, that is actually very helpful info. FYI the 1973 VW Speedo in my car has two bulbs in it. I don't know if the original car had another bulb somewhere or not--but probably not.

 

Few years back I bought 5 of them: VHD-N17-7222 is the part number. Two light the gauge and the other three are for--I think--turn signal. high beam and either the generator or oil light on the instrument's face. Obviously not on the same circuit.

 

Wattage for these is given at 2 watts.

 

This number-- VHD-N17-7512-- is rated 1.2 watts.

 

Craig, the bulbs that came with the car are marked only "12V/5W". No other numbers.

 

The smallest wattage bulbs I was able to find in town today were 2.8 watt, at RadioShack:

 

http://tinyurl.com/mr4ybe3

 

These are '1815' bulbs, not a RadioShack number, but apparently an industry standard. I was able to find them at a lot of websites, made by various major companies like Sylvania, all using the '1815' number. One site identified them as a BA9 bulb.

 

Plugging them in, they were about 2/3 as bright as the bulbs I took out. I could live with them like that, but they should probably still be dimmed a little. I'll try them out tonight when it's good and dark.

 

Danny, believe it or don't, I actually had to use Watt's law at RadioShack today, figuring out which lightbulbs to get. They don't show the wattage on the package - just the voltage and current draw.

 

Standing in RadioShack and working electronics formulas on my iPhone. If I don't win Geek of the Year this year, there is no justice.

 

 

 

Good to know BA9 will work in place of BA7s.  Just slightly different tabs on side of bulb for current contact.  There are probably more choices available in the BA9.  I ended up pitting in LEDs and I love the white/blue color versus, the yellowish incandescents.  I'll keep trying to send a pic, but this computer will not up-load suddenly.

 

craig

 

Danny and Craig, I didn't know LED's were available to fit these sockets.

 

Craig, where did you source them?

 

I was too far along in the project when I read this, so went ahead and put in toggle switches under the dash and two 20-watt power resistors to dim the bulbs.

 

With 40 watts rated power dissipation, and the resistors strapped to the steel cross member under the dash as a heatsink, the resistors still get warm, but not hot.

 

Put all of that heat into a cheesy plastic switch and no wonder the thing burns up. Six five-watt instrument bulbs (the ones that came in the car) add up to 30 watts - almost the same power it takes to light a sealed beam headlight.

 

I do like the look of toggle switches, though. And the way they 'thunk' when thrown. Very business-like.

 

But I guess our government knows what's best for us. How could all of those evil, profit-driven car companies have subjected us to the frightening toggle switch menace for so many years?

 

Every time I flick one on or off, I feel like I'm running with scissors.

 

 

Last edited by Sacto Mitch

Mitch,

I got mine from: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/ba9s-ba7s/

I used the BA7 bulb(few choices) although I now know BA9 will work and that gives you a lot of options (brightness and angle).  The BA7s-x, 100 degree angle was what I have and it is four time brighter than the 1.2W incandescent but not too brite to ever need dimming.  I have two in my speedometer, two in my temp/gas gauge and one in my tach.  If I can get this laptop to upload again, I'll send you a pic.

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×