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So I'm getting ready to install a new top on my speedster. I bought the car without a top, and am not sure how its supposed attach along side having the full tonneau cover. Does the top use the same snaps as the cover with one unsnapping the other snapping in for use? That would seem terribly inconvenient if a spot shower pops up! Is there a second row of snaps? Or......? And can someone post a pic of the inside of the headrail end? I assume the top wraps over and inside the head cap and gets glued, but would like to see it before proceeding.

 

Thanks

Chris

 

1997 993 C4S Black/Black - previous DE and instructor car

1975 914 1.8L Summer Yellow - long term back to bare metal ground up resto

1957 356 CMC Speedster Silver/Red - new to me traffic light to traffic light cruiser

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Originally Posted by Gordon Nichols:

Is your header painted with lacquer?  If not, paint it to make the top adhesive stick.  Also I used DAP Neoprene adhesive (contact cement) which gives you a few more seconds of wiggle time with the fabric before it sets up.  It is also removeable in the future when the top marerial stretches and you want to take some excess out.

Gordon I don't know. It came as part of the car when I bought it, but no top. Its black and looks to be made of fiberglass maybe? Its got remnants of something once glued to it. Figured with a few inches of glue-able area on the face as well as an inch or two of glue-able area that rolls up into the header, should have more than enough grip area to glue the top to. I have everything pulled tight so far, I'd hope not to have to re-adjust and re-glue! I'm hoping it will relax over time to a not so tight state.

 

I couldn't open you email btw, a strange application of some kind my system didn't recognize. If you have it in PDF that would be best. Thanks

Well I tackled the tough part today, gluing the front of the top to the head rail...........that was no fun at all!

 

Started out ok. We installed the snaps last week and kept tension on the top as if it had been glued, just to get the top to stretch and settle. After making sure the top was pulled tight, I used a white crayon to lightly mark the leading edge of the top relative to the header below, did the same inside to make sure I knew how far to run the glue. Then it got difficult and sloppy.

The top was cut with the same bow as the windshield but the problem is when you go to roll the front into the header, the extra material is now working against the header and hard to hold/glue/ keep in place. After lots of pissing and moaning I had what I hope will prove to be a brilliant idea. The top material doesn't want to cooperate when making such tight direction changes and it just would not lay down flat enough to remain adhered to the header. So I had to be smarter than the part (par for the course Ive found when dealing with German cars) and so I ran a ratchet strap across the front of the header! It was perfect as it is about the same width as the header. The angle of the windshield relative to the ratchets point proved perfect and I'll know tomorrow if my idea worked and I have a completed top! If not, I huess I'll go back to the drawing board and figure out what plan B will be.

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Miserable job. I went through it when I tightened my top fabric.  The saying "measure twice and cut once" is a good 'un because I cut my top fabric that goes into the bow a little too skimpy and had a time getting it glued right.

 

Gordon has recommended the 3-M peroduct available at Lowes so I used that.  The thing that made it possible to do was the use of about 20 spring loaded clamps to hole it all together as it dried.  That was also a perfect time to add a third (center) clamp which I did. Also great new rubber to selal the bow to the top of the windshield.  Now I don't get a drop of water along the bow.

 

Good luck with your project!

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