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I've run into a problem with replacing my Recarro seats with the set from my 912. The 912 seats are wider at the top and the backs will rub the convertible top mechanism where it connects to the body and ruin the leather in no time.

I've never liked the top mech on the car...looks chinzy. Two tubes coming together with a bolt through them to the car frame at the top of the door post. The whole assembly sticks out a bit more than 1 1/4 inch.

So I thought, what about making two brackets up as per the attached crude drawing? The curvature of the top of the seat means that the brackets only have to be 2 or 3 inches long. The one bow will be fixed, the other will pivot and the whole bracket will pivot at the same point as the two bows do now. Make it out of 1/8 steel and powder coat...I think it would look nicer too. At the point where it pivots it would only stick into the cab about 1/2 inch which is what I need to give adequate clearance for the seat backs.

Anyone see any problems or issues that I haven't though of?

Brian
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I've run into a problem with replacing my Recarro seats with the set from my 912. The 912 seats are wider at the top and the backs will rub the convertible top mechanism where it connects to the body and ruin the leather in no time.

I've never liked the top mech on the car...looks chinzy. Two tubes coming together with a bolt through them to the car frame at the top of the door post. The whole assembly sticks out a bit more than 1 1/4 inch.

So I thought, what about making two brackets up as per the attached crude drawing? The curvature of the top of the seat means that the brackets only have to be 2 or 3 inches long. The one bow will be fixed, the other will pivot and the whole bracket will pivot at the same point as the two bows do now. Make it out of 1/8 steel and powder coat...I think it would look nicer too. At the point where it pivots it would only stick into the cab about 1/2 inch which is what I need to give adequate clearance for the seat backs.

Anyone see any problems or issues that I haven't though of?

Brian

Attachments

Images (1)
  • bracket
I'd say as long as the tubes are cut to the appropriate shorter length, you should be in business. I think the geometry of the bows are dictated by the top in the up position, no the down, but if you mock it first, measure twice and cut once ... yeah. Should be golden.
Nice idea.
Make sure you mock it up with PVC or cardboard first, too.
I was talking to Alan this evening, and he suggests it might not work without the second flange to dip the back piece below the front one when it's down. I still think it'll work, but he's built about 300 of these things, and I haven't had a roof for almost three years.
He's probably right.
Here's the prototype quickly fabbed up. Now that I know it'll work I'll make up another pair a little less robust and I finish the metal better so that the chrome powder coat is a smoother finish. Used 1/8 steel plate, 1/2 inch hex bar stock ground round where it goes into the tubes and stainless hardware. Frame tubes just slip over the bar stock so removal of the top is a cinch.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • IMGA0137
  • IMGA0138
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