Top/side curtain question?

Short answer is "nope".  One company has advertised them for years, but they're not really available.  Replica Speedsters are all slightly different so quite a bit of individual fitment is required for each car, even from the same manafacturer.  I made a set of lexan side windows with pop-out vents that are a great improvement, and I know of at least one fellow (who's name escapes me) that made his own sliding set.  Do a search on this site for people's posts on the subject.

And I think they projected cost at $1299 a pair.  If you could weld aluminum and had access to marine aluminum parts it could be done.  Over years I saved photos I found of real sliding side curtains. Suspect you'd be adding more chances for water leaks too though. With a hard top these would be great.

 

GR;

 

I think, the VS tops are similar to the CMC tops. Go to top of the SOC page, click...."Resources"......."Library". Download the CMC pdf.  On page VII-15 is a drawing of the top frames/bows.

 

Art

G.R.

The longer bow is just behind your head.

The shorter bow fits close to the top of the rear window.

 

But there may be a problem if your metal hoops accommodate a 'low bow' profile top and your new top is dimensioned for a 'high bow' profile

Yet to fit my top to car but as Carl says longer one in front and the short one is adjust up when the lever is flicked to tighten.  I'm hoping all VS tops are low bow since they only list one top which is what I ordered several years ago. I'm thinking there is one top for speedsters and another for the higher top (taller bow) Roadster with the taller windshield and windup windows - at least that was case when CMC offered the windup window optioned kit.

 

 

 

 

 

G.R.:

 

email me at speedstahguy at gmail dot com and I'll send you a detailed, illustrated article about mounting a VS Stayfast top onto a CMC, complete with modifying the two top bows to fit properly.

 

Gordon, the Speedstah Guy from Masschusetts

 

G.R. I also have a VS, so...

Assuming that Kirk sources his tops from the same supplier, yours, like mine is likely a 'High Bow' unless specially ordered as a lower profiled top.

 

The center metal bow, hoop, rib...whatever it's called...is approx. 58 linear inches. If that's your measurement then you're good to go!

 

The only 'hardware' is a through bolt high in the wheel well (just in back of the door) that the center bow is attached to...the shorter rear bow is connected with a locking arm to the center bow....But the bows and top have to be assembled (unattached to the body) because the bows slide into positioning pockets on the underside of the top.

 

It's good to have an extra pair of hands to attach this assembled top to the car because it's an awkward PITA for just one person.

 

Oh...also...The wheels have to be removed to get at the hole in the wheel well. it's cramped and dark and invisible. Have your extra set of hands protrude a straw, stick or something through the hole from the inside so you can locate it by feel.

Gordon, can you email this to me also? Thanks, Art

ambray@pacbell.net

Greg:

I hate to deflate your expectations but every speedster VS top that I'm aware of is the 'High Bow' Conestoga Wagon profile!

 

But it seems an easy modification to configure that bow dimensionally to a 'Low Bow'

One bow(rear) is bent in more of a 90* vs the other a more gradual curve that goes in the forward position.

 

Greg, since you won't finish your speedster would you like to sell some parts?

Carl:

 

I bought a Stay Fast top from VS.  I already had a set of top bows and a windshield header from CMC (but a mouse ate a hole in my top when in storage so there you go).  

 

The top material from VS, when laid over the top bows I had from CMC, did not reach far enough down the sides or along the back side to reach the body.  It was short all around by 2+ inches, indicating that what I had were taller (High) bows and received VS's standard top, which corresponded to CMC's so-called "short bows".

 

The answer (as documented in my top installation article) was to simply cut about 1-1/2" off the ends of both metal bows to allow them to drop for everything to line up properly and give me the right amount of "flap" along the body to install the snaps.

 

I agree that "Speedster" tops are, generally, lower, while Cabriolet and Roadster tops are, generally, higher.  Whichever one you use depends on what'cha got for a car to start with, how tall your seats and upper torso are and whether your head hits or not with the top up.....

"Does anyone make a side curtain with plexiglass or Lexan sliding windows rather than the totally closed stock.."

G.R.

Fibersteel in Azusa, CA is starting to make them for original speedsters.  Don't know if they fit our cars/

Les

Les,

 

Yeah, um... about that...

 

That's been "in the works" since 2000. I'm not kidding. Do a search on "Fibersteel". I posted a whole lot on this about 12 years ago.

Gordon, that's exactly what I meant about modifying the height of the metal bows...simply hacksaw the ends of the tubes sledge hammer them flat and drill new mounting bolt holes.

Merklin fabricated a very attractive smooth "low look" to a red outlaw he created. I imagine that's the process he went through.

One of Jay Leno's 'garage' features a silver speedster that as a 'rust-bucket-ready for-the-crusher' 356A coupe' was reincarnated by a talented enthusiast. It retained the coupe's roll up window doors and he fabricated an unobtrusive (slotted hard rubber?) to the edge of the speedster windshield to catch the front edge of the window....BUT HIS TOP was fantastic!...Smooth, very low, with such a shortened back bow that the rear window simply 'slid' onto the turtle deck at about 45 degree angle...Simply WOW!

"sledge hammer the ends flat"

 

Nope, not necessary.  The ends of the top bows are tubular all the way to the ends ("That's Tubular, Man!")

 

 

Wolfgang!!!!!!!!!

 

I finally found the bin in my shop with my extra top bow pivot point dress washers a'la Kirk Duncan.  They are, indeed, Ford V-8 valve spring keeper washers, re-purposed to the world of semi-outlaw speedster top mechanisms.  I suppose Summit has them in various shapes, but these fit perfectly and look great.  They have a nice dome to them to stand the bows off of the carpet.

 

If you need a picture, let me know (my phone was charging when I was out there).

 

I also had a bunch of 3/4" (pre-shrink) shrink tube so I put some over both top bows and then shrank it on instead of paint.  Looks great and will last forever.

HEY, EVERYBODY!

 

I just posted my convertible top installation article to the "Knowledge" section of the site.

Everything seems to work as far as the illustrations and pictures go.

 

Enjoy!

 

Gordon

The Speedstah Guy

Carl;

 

Is this the top you referred to? This car was on Jeno Leno's garage. But I pulled this pic from the Fantasy Junction brokerage listing.  I love this low look!  Cutting the bows, is probably the easy part, buying a new one-off top is probably scary $$$

 

Art

YES... Art, that's the top!

Swoooby slick...Huh?

 

Notice that dark rubberish looking 'something' fitted to the speedster's windshield?

That's catching (in a cut out slot I assume) the forward edge of the window.

Very neat.

 

I have a lot of ambitious dreams for the VS I eventually want to drive, but I realistically accept the fact that not all of them will materialize...for lack of $$; Lack of knowledge; lack of time.

 

But, I've imagined a practical way around an overly expense 'custom' top:

 

I've purchased a salvaged and intact speedster top from an SOC'r. 

I've spoken to a local young man who produces custom boat covers, has repaired convertible tops, measured and sown together custom tonneau's

 

My idea is to attach the modified (shortened) bows to the speedster in the swoopy shape I'm after (just like this photo you've found!) Stretch the salvaged top over the tubular bows and mark where the seams should be in the radius around the turtle deck up to the doors, and where the snaps are. Disassemble the top so it now becomes a pattern...Select the Harrtz cloth I want...Negotiate a price with the young man and turn the 'pattern' over to him!

 

Hey, without dreams life is boring.  

 

 

   

I like your approach, Carl but I wonder if the "shortened"  variety might be a useful / sale able product in the long run. A "high top" version might be more useful...like a Roadster type top.

 

Consider this, ...the cool factor of a low top could be argued as a good selling feature. One the other hand, why do people put the top up ? Because if they don't, they'll get wet. Now...if you have to put the top up to stay dry, you're not at home and likely need to drive home or somewhere where it may be dry. Driving a Speedster is a bugger when it is raining, especially if it has a low top....I know and have done too much of it.

 

Take a look at the pic attached. My Speedster outside a hotel in Durango, Co. a couple of years ago. Raining like shyt. ...(Note the bullet hole in the window. ),  Guns, eh ? Anyway, the second roof bow from the rear  is right atop my skull. We've met a number of times and you know I'm not a tall guy. If that top as you see it is not drawn up real tight, it rests on my head. No fun.

 

Not even for a short sprint to the Strater Hotel but we did it anyway and managed to hijack the entertainer for a few pics in the process.

 

 

I like the look of that top too, Carl.

Many thanks David. You've brought up a very valid point of resale potential, which I'd never given a though to.

 

Went to bed with pros and cons buzzing in my head and awoke with an elegant answer...

 

Since the 'pattern' will be the disassembled salvaged top, the existing top will be intact. I'll simply duplicate the two bows (ah-la Mango Smoothy's detailed DIY blog)

 

I've a friend with access to a pipe bending machine

I've got a 'sledge hammer' and drill press to finish off the ends then it can be reverted back to a Conastoga Westward-Ho profile!

 

The best of both worlds.

In the case of looks versus function this is instance where I'll take function.

 

That's because you're "height challenged"......

 

 

 

Wow....I just realized how old this photo is - the wheel spokes are black......

 

Anyhoo.....Lane has about a 6" inch "disadvantage" on me and certainly would NOT fit into Pearl with the top up.  I have about 1" clearance to the top from my head.

 

When I installed my top, I went for the look of a "Carson" top from the Hot Rod world.  Came about as close as practical for this car and my seat and torso height.

Here's a "Carson" top on a Buick (I think) to give you the idea - google carson top and hit "images"....

 

Close Gordon...but it's a '51 Mercury (4inch extended rear fenders from the 49's and 50's)

 

When I was a kid a Carson Top fabricator was located on Atlantic Ave in Lynwood California, half a block across the avenue from George & Sam Barris who kept them busy 'topping-off' their beautiful customized creations! 

 

 

Turkey special - FiberSteel sliding side curtains

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsch...3c0d55dc&vxp=mtr

 

 

Greg,

Are you kidding me???

$12 hundred for those???

 

Look at them closely, veeeery closely.

Then read my Dialog again!!!

 

Oh,... I'll take my set with black anodized aluminum frames

I was surprised to see screw or rivets.  The small print says they DO NOT fit Replicas and:

 

Please note that these windows do not come with any type of A pillar filler panels (strips).  We have found that it is very difficult to fit the A pillar panels and that since the windows rest behind and inboard of the A pillars, there is no need for the filler panels. Also note that these windows are not weather tight.  You may still have leaking issues if you drive in bad weather.

Carl,

How do you think this rear window would work with your adjusted bow idea?!  

Wow, Jane...That two piece soft top rear window is a clever 'period looking' solution to a one piece that tends to warp out of shape. Visibility would be compromised so a pair of body mounted mirrors is a must.

 

My idea (since I'm fabricating from scratch) would be to also incorporate a zip down rear window panel like my Healey 3000 had...which was always zippered down unless I drove in the rain.

 

BTW, whose Outlaw is this?

Very snarly engine lid. I bet it solves the heat dissipation problem.

And, I very much like the modified snug fit of the rear bumper.

This car is available on ebay:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsch...mp;pt=US_Cars_Trucks

 

Have some nice features.

Gary

John Estes had an older IM with a zippered back window.  I thought it was a great idea.  I've seen it on a few other cars, but very few.  with the rear window zippered down the top doesn't flap at speed.  Worth the price of admission right there......

I have a zip out rear window.  I stole the idea from Buckwheat.

I got it for the top up/side curtains out /long drive/hot day scenario.

So far, I haven't used it once. 

If I lived in more southern climes, however (here's hoping one day), I might.

If we ever do Corn Daze again, I can see it getting used.

One solution to a low bow top (as opposed to a high bow), is to remove some of the padding in the seat bottom.  I know Henry tailors the seats to the individual owner, and can make them the right height.

I'm meeting with someone today to make a top w/zippered side windows and rear.

 

I have a set of zippered windows that I had made ....you can borrow them for a template.  Dialog me....Alan