2019 VMC build. Some snaps just won't snap even if lined up properly. Others won't reach far enough to line up. Suggestions welcome. Talk to Greg?? Upgrade?? Visit a top shop?? Want to avoid drilling more mounting holes if possible.
Jim Ruiz
Westchester, CA 90045
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Some snaps needs to be tapped with the keel of your hand to get them to snap, if you have a snap that easily comes off the male portion you can slightly squeeze the female portion with a pliers to elongate it a bit.
" won't each far enough " ..... post pics .
Jim, try laying the tonneau in direct sunlight for 30 minutes to warm up the canvas. This may help stretch it to reach those difficult snaps.
Also, try attaching tonneau to the front snaps first (on dashboard and base of windshield posts) then pull to attach to those on rear of car.
Hope this helps.
Problem solved. I am replacing all of the snaps \with Loxx pull up fasteners and studs (all stainless steel) for the top, full tonneau, and quarter tonneau. I got rhem from Sailrite in Indiana.
Pricey, but now everything attaches as it should. The original snaps on my 2019 VMC Speedster could not be adjusted. The Loxx units allow adjustment on the fastener's upper portion that attaches to the material. The studs screw into the original snap mounting holes in the body. They can be adhusted for height.
Jim Ruiz
Westchester, CA 90045
Loxx fasteners look just like Tenax fasteners(function and design), just another brand.
FYI, if anyone gets Tenax fasteners, there are two types, English and everyone else. They are incompatible with each other. I got mine from Carey at Beck/SE.
I noticed the similarity. Loxx is a German brand.
I used English Tenax fasteners because they are less expensive than the German ones.
I've been looking at these German Loxx ones - they come in a nickel finish. The link provides info on the renaming from Tenax.
From the demented mind of Musbjim, my first thought when I read 'Loxx Fasteners' was something to keep your smoked salmon from sliding off the bagel. 
Probably mustard 
You guys are making me hungry.
Thanks to Wolfgang for explaining the Loxx/Tenax connection. I could only find the posts and fasteners in stainless steel from Sailrite. The installation tool they have for tightening the upper fastener is a must. Their post tightening tool is very small. A i/4" ratchet & socket works better. I got a six oiece hollow punch set/drill hole cutters from Harbor Freight (#67030). It will be used on the top and tonneau material pieces.
Jim Ruiz
Westchester, CA 90045
I used a paper punch for the holes in the tonneau.
I used a pair of hole punch pliers for leather belts, it was my Dad's.
Cuts a nice clean hole in 6 different sizes.
Like this $17.50:
https://www.weaverleathersuppl...YEAQYByABEgLnXfD_BwE
Sailrite sells basically the same for 90 bucks(but it says "Professional"), I'm guessing their profit margin is a bit higher.
Danny, I still have my leather punch that was my dad's as well. He used to do leather work as one of his hobbies.
We buys stuff from here...
Tandy Leather (the once proud parent company of Radio Shack) is a good source, too.
@jprpdr, I suggest installing the posts on the body first. Then, stretch the tonneau over one of the posts and rub a white pencil over the bump created by the post. Then punch the hole at the white mark.
Speaking of Radio Shack I see they are sorta back and sell on line via Face Book
There is one small store near me that has a Radio Shack sign but they don't have much stuff inside. I miss Radio Shack.
Mike - were you able to use any of the threaded machine screw base pieces that use the nut on the back? 3/8" seems to be standard depth of threads - which if you can get to the back side would probably be sufficient. Guess I could use the course wood screw looking threads with some super glue or resin as they are screwed in.
It has been a while but I think I used only the wood screw type into the fiberglass. I made the mistake of sealing the holes with epoxy after drilling. The hard epoxy made it difficult to screw the Tenax posts in. It is easy to twist off the brass screws. I put a washer under them.
I did use the machine screw post on the windshield frame where the top flaps attach. I carefully drilled and tapped the holes. Since I used Tenax fasteners from England the screws had weird British threads. I cut most of the screw threads off and screwed the posts in with epoxy.
Thin super glue is what I use to seal any fiberglass holes. Only use enough to just coat the fiberglass, then any previous holes or threads will remain.
I used the same wood screw posts that Michael used, and used stainless washers under the studs to prevent galling the paint. They held the top on my old car perfectly fine. There was no need to drill through and bolt the studs from behind. I think there were 6 or 7 that held the back of the top to the Spyder deck. FYI, I went 85mph with the top on, it held up just fine from the wind-load. I made several trips to Alan Merklin's PA house for the Pumpkin Runs, 280 miles each way.
Thanks to Michael M. for the tip on marking. I am not drilling any new post holes. I am enlarging the original fabric holes to 3/8". I've completed five complete installations so far. More sets have been ordered.
One spring pre-flight I noticed a couple of mine were a little loose. Rather than tightening them and risk stripping out the threads, I added a dab of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive aka Monkey Snot to them and screwed them back in.
They’ve help up fine going on three years now and I regularly drive with half the tonneau open and the other half flapping in the breeze.
The Loxx installations on the 1/4 tonneau, full tonneau, and the top are now complete.Everything snaps tightly into place with very little effort. Next project is to improve the full tonneau four front fittings that attach onto the top center dashboard and front body just in front of the front doorThe windshield angle makes the center top dashboard fittings awkward to assess. Will experiment with twist-lock and Loxx pull-it-up units to see if can get better fit than the original lift-the-Dot fittings
Originally I had snaps for my tonneau. I installed them per the CMC manual 1" behind the windshield. When I replaced them with Tenax fasteners, the ones behind the windshield were very difficult to pull up.
So, I made a tool out of a spoon. I cut a slot in the bowl end and put a hook in the handle end. The hook is to pull up on the grille in the engine compartment cover. I dipped both ends in Plastidip.
Good idea. I'm going to try the Dot-lift-the-top-extenders for the front four tonneau connections.
Mike, that is very clever!
@Gordon Nichols posted:Mike, that is very clever!
Agreed. Super-genius level.
My snap replacement project is now complete. I used extender straps from Northwest Tarp and Canvas for the 4 Dot lift snaps that connect on the front of the full tonneau cover. All connections are now tightly and easily made without a lot of stretching.
