Torque Tool

I have one and it works very well.  Make sure the rack gear is tight on the lugs and everything is aligned correctly.  I try to keep the socket pushed up snug onto the hub nut.  When applying the 250 ft lbs to the hub nut, if the socket is not fully engaged, it can damage the hex on the nut.  This makes it more difficult to loosen/tighten the nut next time. 

 

In my opinion, it was a good investment for both the convenience and safety.

 

James

I used one all the time when I worked with industrial robots, torque multiplier which was produced by Snap On Tool. The big advantage to this tool is its size, whereas you would have to carry around an aircraft size torque wrench.

 

I still have one in my tool box.

 

 

Mine had a couple torque values stamped on arm so you don't even have to bother with the pesky math.

I've used a torquemeister-style torque multiplier for rear hub nuts and it worked really well.  The only caveat is that overtorquing becomes a real possibility.

I looked up torque tool on the web and found zilch. Any leads ? I understand the inconvenience of using a long cheater bar and that common sense / care is needed.

 

But in the end, does the nut actually care what turned it ?

 

I should have posted a link. I think you can find it also by searching for torque meister.

 

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/F...mm-p/torque-tool.htm

 

Take a look and you'll see what I'm talking about. You don't need a torque wrench that goes to the moon - 27.7 foot pounds using this tool.

 

Torque multiplier?  Sounds like an April Fools joke to me.  

$75 FREE shipping and no tax at CIP!

 

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...uctCode=ACC-C10-7036

 

I use the old cheap $10 hammer assisted tool.

 

www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7040

 

 

 

 

I don't like those torque multipliers and when I replaced my rear wheel bearings I needed to remove that big 36mm axle nut.

 

Harbor Freight sells a great torque wrench that has a heavy duty handle that's over 18" long --like a breaker bar and takes that 36mm socket.  It was pretty inexpensive and when you replace that nut you know it was torqued down precisely.

 

Google Harbor Freight or call them and rder one.  If you are close you can borrow mine for the shipping --but it was very reasonable to purchase..

Sounds like removing the nut with the torque tool will only need one person. Using extension bars requires two people; one to keep the nut placed in the socket and the other person to bounce on the bar 6 feet away from the hub nut.

Nope.

The Torque Tool also does double duty for the flywheel gland nut.

I thought so too, but my gland nut is 38mm, just bought the socket and changed out the rear main seal. Threw a new disc in while I was at it.

 

To get my gland nut off, I had my 250 pound friend leaning on a 3 foot cheater bar on my breaker bar, and I still had to smack the bar with a 5 pound hammer to break it loose! That sucker was TIGHT!

 

That Harbor Freight BIG torque wrench is $80 for the 3/4" drive unit. I just broke the ratchet pawl on the 1/2" HF torque wrench I had.....I was tightening the pinion nut on the trans. It broke at less than the 150 lbs. I had it set for. It was 20 years old, so I got my use out of it.

 

Tightening the nut can be done with one person, a 3 foot bar and 200 lbs. is 600 ft. lbs. I'm pretty sure a 6 foot bar will snap a breaker bar easily, that's too long.

I (and I guess, Dave) disagree with the two-people thing on an extended breaker bar.

 

I've been using 4'-6' lengths of pipe on a 1/2" or 3/4" drive bat handle for over 50 years (saying that always shocks me...) and the only time I needed two people as you describe was removing the lug nuts of truck wheels when we needed a 10"-12" long extension to get in to the nuts.  

 

HOWEVER!  I also have a 4' long piece of 2" wide by 1/4" thick flat steel stock with a couple of holes drilled to accept two wheel studs.  That is assembled to the wheel and positioned so that when I loosen the nut (or tighten it later) I'm applying pressure towards that flat torque bar and the bar holds the wheel (or flywheel, hint, hint) in place without needing the brake applied or rocking the car dangerously.  

 

When I do the rear wheel nuts on a Speedster, I either don't need an extension or, at most, a 2" jobbie, just to let the handle clear the fender.  It's the extension that sets up weird torque vectors (remember your Physics 101 and torque vectors?) which force the extension off at an angle, thereby disengaging the socket.  

 

BTW: I've had plenty of nuts rusted onto something so tight that my 300 ft/lb impact gun couldn't break them loose.  Put a bat handle and 6' piece of pipe on them and gently increase the force and they back right out.  And I NEVER "Bounce" the bar - that just gives abnormally high false torque.  Never had a stud break off, either, if it's been soaked with penetrating oil for a while first.  

 

Just figure out where, per your own weight, you should be standing on the bar a set distance from the socket pivot point for the proper torque and simply put one foot there, gently increasing pressure until all of your weight is on that one foot and when the bar stops moving, you're done.

 

Of course, having typed all this, if you're not comfortable with any of the use of this type of set up and want to stay safe with something you feel you can control better, then by all means, either buy a BIG torque wrench or get a torquemeister and "Git R Dun"!

       
       

Yes, some aftermarket gland nuts are larger than stock 36mm.

I'm a little confused.  Something here about Danny getting off with his gland nut.  That's a little too personal for me . . .

I agree, there's some things we just don't need to know, Kelly...

If Danny needs a 38mm socket, it sounds as though his Glands are swollen, right?

Hey Gordon,

I remember a Youtube video where a guy uses the 'angle iron' formed by a metal bed rail with holes drilled in it to hold the rear wheel in position while he cranks the axle nut off.  Simple and effective. 

Yes, Frank, that is a very cheap re-use that works really well.

 

I had to make a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off. Two leftover cheap angle-iron pieces welded together, along with a nut and a long bolt did the trick. Use two flywheel bolts, it works more like a "pusher" though, not a puller.