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Hi all
Just started building Chesil speedster, well when I say started I have adi everything out in my lovley paitned garage. I am very inexperienced but think I am ready to make a start. Peter at Chesil mentioned one modifaction to the front beam, two shims, i am jst a bit unclear where they go. I have found the parts but if anyone can lend some suggestions that would be great
Thanks
Tim
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Hi all
Just started building Chesil speedster, well when I say started I have adi everything out in my lovley paitned garage. I am very inexperienced but think I am ready to make a start. Peter at Chesil mentioned one modifaction to the front beam, two shims, i am jst a bit unclear where they go. I have found the parts but if anyone can lend some suggestions that would be great
Thanks
Tim
Known as Caster shims. They go to either side of the lower front beam bolts when welded in beam adjusters (like Avis ones) are used to lower the front of car. You should also get the longer bolts. If front is not lowered with beam adjusters (like with dropped spindles) then you most likely don't need them. About $15 USD for adjusters and longer bolts.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-4190
From an earlier post.
They are probably aluminum and are appx. 1/8" thick at the thickest point. If you have one pair and the car still feels a little "twitchy" I HIGHLY recommend another pair. With our wide tires I really did not notice any more difficulty in low speed turning. To install, support the front of the car somewhere other than the front beam. Back one of the TOP beam attach bolts out ALL the way (to see how far out it will come). Then tighten it back in appx. 1/4". Next back out the other top beam bolt the same distance. Loosen the brackets for the bumpers/nerf bars as they will change relations to the body appx. 1/8". I recommend the longer bolts but they may have already been installed (they were on mine). Back the lower bolts out so that they are out appx 1/4". Use a pry bar to open the gaps at the lower beam and then slip the shims into place (it may take a little effort to keep the old and new ones matched).
Then tighten everything back up (don't forget the bumper/nerf brackets). It took appx. 40 min. and was REALLY worth the effort/expense.
Doug
Thanks again
Have done the job now but the beam doesnt seem to locate perfectly into the frame, it is fine on the shims and I get get it all tighened up ok. Just wondered if this may become a problem, its only a little out and all is secure I was just thinking of straightline and if the point f the shims will be lost
Thanks
Tim
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