Tough clutch pedal

It takes quite a bit of force to depress my clutch pedal. I have adjusted the play in the pedal with the wingnut. The freeplay is between 1/2" and 1". I had to tighten the wingnut almost as far as it could go.

The pedal is very stiff. Any suggestions.

Also, when I start the car and try to shift into gear there is a squeal or rubbing sound when I press in on the clutch pedal.

Sounds like the throw out bearing is headed south...you'll have to pull the engine anyway so, be sure to replace the clutch assembly as a unit i.e clutch disc, pressure plate and the throw out bearing...Be sure to also order the $3.00 plastic clutch alignment tool (looks like the fwd section of the transmission shaft)when disassembled, look carefully at the two flat spring clips that secure the throw out bearing to the fork making sure that they are not broke or bent ...also look at the fork itself for cracks misalignment etc.
Depending on the sixe (cc) of the engine will designate the clutch you want to use ....a stock set up up to 1`776cc can use the stock German clutch any higher cc engine I suggest you go with Kennedy 1700lb clutch.

.....Alan

you need to lubricate (grease) the clutch cable sleeve/tube

throw out is gone/done/finished, depending on how long you run it
like that it will wear down your clutch plate fingers. good luck

Replaced the throw-out bearing. The throw-out bearing was the only part that I did not replace. Clutch pedal still seems a little stiff. Now there is a rubbing/squealing noise when I push the clutch pedal in. Does something in the clutch need to get worn in?

Thanks for all your help.

I backed the car up too fast an scratched the side a little. This will give me some practice at touch-ups for stone chips.

John,
Backing a speedster up and scratching it isn't bad ......
"someone" other than me, backed a Speedster up with the door open and met a porch ! :~)

And the garage door frame!

BD

shouldn't make noise with the new components. Are you sure you have the right TO bearing and clutch set?

On the stiff clutch. You may have a kink somewhere in the line. Bowden tube maybe, cable stretching, pedel worn, spring on clutch are binding.

How heavy is your clutch (ie: 1700lb 2300lb?) A stock or light duty clutch should depress very easily. You start to feel the snap on say a Kennedy stage 2 or 3.

Have someone step on the clutch while you watch under the car and see if it all move freely. Just don't let the back up over you. It is not as easy to touch up skin as it is paint.

John, it sounds like you have two issues. The spinning/rubbing
squealing etc.. should have gone away when you replaced the bearing.
The bearing starts to spin when you apply pressure to the pressure
plate via the pedal, and then stops when cluth is fully reengaged
unless it is adjusted improperly. Since you did'nt check for
smooth movement when the eng. was out, back off the wingnut and
move the pedal/cable to check for binding without the clutch assy
being activated. At least you'll eliminate 1/2 of the system.
good luck
ps-if you end up going back "in" make sure that the bearing is
being activated and meeting the press. plate squarely.

No one's mentioned it, but you can also be suffereing from a bent cross shaft. If the throwout bearing clips came loose, it might be jamming up. You also mentioned you have the wing nut adjusted nearly all the way. Might be time to replace the cable as it may have stretched

john, let us know the out come

Your problem sounds a bit more serious than mine was. But in case it helps someone, try this: After my original clutch cable became two halves of a clutch cable, I installed a new cable. I liberally greased it as I slid it into the center tube. Carefully installed a new bowden tube. After final adjustment, my clutch pedal force was about half of what it had been. At first it scared me. I figured I must have made a mistake somewhere because the pedal was so light, but all is working very well. All by adding 3 cents worth of grease!

Normally the cables saw themselves in half because of the Bowdin tube being out of adjustment. If the tube is not aligned to the pipe coming out of the chassis it'll wear badly right there.
ed

The clutch cable was installed at Vintage. There is a ton of grease where the cable connect to the pedal assembly. No grease is visible from the Bodin tube to the wingnut. I am thinking of removing the cable and making sure that it is fully greased.

Note: I had my engine dyno'd before I discovered the clutch problems. The report came back with 85 hp at 3500 rpm. The engine is a 1776 with dual Kadrons and not a drop of oil.

You'll find you get a few more HP John once you put oil in the engine....

To clarify, not a drop of oil leaked.

Even if the fork checks out OK

It would be a great time to pull the fork out and add more weld to the fork base as a reinforcement

That trick could spare you a dammaged clutch.


A tell tale sigh is when you clutch petal suddenly changes during a shift.


Take the fork OFF THE CAR before welding it!!! Don't forget the bell housing is magnessium it will burn.

RESULTS:
The problem was the Bowdin Tube. Mine was shaped like a 'J' on side. I looked at my friend's Bug and couldn't believe the difference. Shortened the tube to achieve the proper positioning. The results are night and day. Thank you all for your help and suggestions. This forum is priceless.

Could someone take a good photo of a correct Bowden tube and post it? I'm having a clutch problem and am wondering if that could be it. Might be useful to others.

Bowdin tubes should have about an inch of deflection. You can use washers at the transaxle end to achieve this. Try to get a German one, they are higher quality(what a surprise!).