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Looks like that should work fine - not seen a bar with that extra joint there by the bumper. You can get an adjustable hitch bar assembly from Harbor Freight for under $18 that will let you drop the hitch ball up to 6". This would let the bar sit more parallel to the ground.
Below is link to a heavy duty $30 one - but they have a cheaper one too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95991
Below is link to a heavy duty $30 one - but they have a cheaper one too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95991
Cool Bill, what hold it up under the car? Does it mount to the torsion tube or the bumper supports?
Thanks for any advice.
Boston Bob E
www.bimelliott.com
Thanks for any advice.
Boston Bob E
www.bimelliott.com
It's not mine. I have a towbar for a bug that needs to be moddified.
This is on a car on ebay.
This is on a car on ebay.
Bill,
I also saw that on the car on ebay, I was hoping that it was yours so you could tell us where to find one. It looks simple and quick for a weekend car tow and go. Back roads are fun, highways are tedious in my car. Anyone know if this is a buy it or fab it? Thanks
I also saw that on the car on ebay, I was hoping that it was yours so you could tell us where to find one. It looks simple and quick for a weekend car tow and go. Back roads are fun, highways are tedious in my car. Anyone know if this is a buy it or fab it? Thanks
Sparked my interest.
I went over to the bay to check it out and found this pic of an early speedster and saved the photo, you guys might like it to.
http://cgi.ebay.com/first-Porsche-356-Speedster-ever-raced-withClark-Gable_W0QQitemZ200345770551QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2ea589da37&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1307|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
More tow bar speculation please.
Dave
I went over to the bay to check it out and found this pic of an early speedster and saved the photo, you guys might like it to.
http://cgi.ebay.com/first-Porsche-356-Speedster-ever-raced-withClark-Gable_W0QQitemZ200345770551QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2ea589da37&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1307|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
More tow bar speculation please.
Dave
Somebody cue Lane.........
Huh? Wha...? Ok, I'm awake now. What's this all about? Oh, tow bars. Yeah, I'm thinking about one.
Long ride back home, Lane?
Carey said one of his customers has one on a Speedster to move between summer and winter homes. Give him a call on what mods need to be done for your application.
Ahhh, more converts. At least you have a top, Lane. For us Spyders, it can be brutal out there!
Carey said one of his customers has one on a Speedster to move between summer and winter homes. Give him a call on what mods need to be done for your application.
Ahhh, more converts. At least you have a top, Lane. For us Spyders, it can be brutal out there!
Honestly, the changes needed to a Speedster in order to use a stock VW tow bar are minimal.
1. Mount the receivers (which may have to be custom made) on the torque tubes of the front end. The tow bar will attach at the BOTTOM of the receivers. Leave the receivers permanently in place (you normally won't be able to see them).
2. Get someone (preferably a competant welding shop like Pender Bros. in Beaufort) to bend the stock VW tow bar attachment ends at about 15 degrees positive from straight, in order to get the bar down low enough to clear the front Speedster apron W/O rubbing.
3. Fiddle around with it at the welder's to get it bent and straight to the right dimensions to fit right to your car and tow vehicle (after all, the CAR is a custom, so why shouldn't the tow bar be custom, too?). The bends will be different for each tow vehicle, as the tow hitch receiver and ball height from the ground are different for each vehicle. You and the welder will have to mess around with tow vehicle/ball height configurations to get one that works. It's not magic, just get in there with a tape measure and make it work.
4. Go home and paint it so it looks nice.
4a. Wire up your tow vehicle and Spedster/Spyder so the tail/stop lights will work when towing. This will probably be harder for most people than getting the tow bar built.
5. Hook up and tow somewhere to get used to it being back there. Unless you've got a BIG diesel pulling it, it will assuredly feel different and you'll have to get used to how it feels, especially when braking.
6. Also, unless you're Alan or me and a small coterie of others, DO NOT try backing up with a car on a tow bar. Period. It will not do anything the way you expect it to and you might break something, so just get used to that fact and ALWAYS find a way to pull it forward to where you want to be.
That's about it.
gn
1. Mount the receivers (which may have to be custom made) on the torque tubes of the front end. The tow bar will attach at the BOTTOM of the receivers. Leave the receivers permanently in place (you normally won't be able to see them).
2. Get someone (preferably a competant welding shop like Pender Bros. in Beaufort) to bend the stock VW tow bar attachment ends at about 15 degrees positive from straight, in order to get the bar down low enough to clear the front Speedster apron W/O rubbing.
3. Fiddle around with it at the welder's to get it bent and straight to the right dimensions to fit right to your car and tow vehicle (after all, the CAR is a custom, so why shouldn't the tow bar be custom, too?). The bends will be different for each tow vehicle, as the tow hitch receiver and ball height from the ground are different for each vehicle. You and the welder will have to mess around with tow vehicle/ball height configurations to get one that works. It's not magic, just get in there with a tape measure and make it work.
4. Go home and paint it so it looks nice.
4a. Wire up your tow vehicle and Spedster/Spyder so the tail/stop lights will work when towing. This will probably be harder for most people than getting the tow bar built.
5. Hook up and tow somewhere to get used to it being back there. Unless you've got a BIG diesel pulling it, it will assuredly feel different and you'll have to get used to how it feels, especially when braking.
6. Also, unless you're Alan or me and a small coterie of others, DO NOT try backing up with a car on a tow bar. Period. It will not do anything the way you expect it to and you might break something, so just get used to that fact and ALWAYS find a way to pull it forward to where you want to be.
That's about it.
gn
Northern Tool sells a light set for towing cars and boats for about $30.00. I used one to make a light bar that is removable and can be used on both boats and trailers and is hihger and at eye level so it can be seen by soccer moms driving SUVs and talking on the phone. The bar is removable and never gets submerged so it always works. Might be modified for a speedster.
DO NOT try backing up, you might break something expensive! If the front wheels turn all the way, big problem.
Wiring the car wasn't hard on my Spyder, I ran an extension through the car and plugged it into the existing connector by the rear of the frame. Spyders have this due to the rear clip being removable. Two hinge pins and a plug and the whole back of the car is accessible.
Make sure someone VERY good at welding does your work, it is the only thing keeping your car from ending up like Gerd's(no disrespect meant!) And please have a safety chain welded to the bar, just in case it comes off the hitch.
While towing, I usually run about 65, sometimes 70, but never more than that. With a smaller car, you will really feel it back there, especially Speedsters. Remember, my car weighs 1400 pounds, yours don't. A good rule of thumb is the tow vehicle should be a minimum of twice the towed vehicle weight, and please consult your owners manual so you don't exceed the allowable weights.
My Suby allows 2000 pounds, but I am a lot lower than that. It recommends trailer brakes for anything over 1000 pounds, so I am fudging there. You just have to plan and think when towing, leave extra space, and make sure your brakes are up to snuff. Two weeks before Carlisle, I installed new pads and rotors, front and rear.
Under windy conditions, slow down, your little car WILL push you around, unless you drive a rig like Gordon's. Have fun.
Wiring the car wasn't hard on my Spyder, I ran an extension through the car and plugged it into the existing connector by the rear of the frame. Spyders have this due to the rear clip being removable. Two hinge pins and a plug and the whole back of the car is accessible.
Make sure someone VERY good at welding does your work, it is the only thing keeping your car from ending up like Gerd's(no disrespect meant!) And please have a safety chain welded to the bar, just in case it comes off the hitch.
While towing, I usually run about 65, sometimes 70, but never more than that. With a smaller car, you will really feel it back there, especially Speedsters. Remember, my car weighs 1400 pounds, yours don't. A good rule of thumb is the tow vehicle should be a minimum of twice the towed vehicle weight, and please consult your owners manual so you don't exceed the allowable weights.
My Suby allows 2000 pounds, but I am a lot lower than that. It recommends trailer brakes for anything over 1000 pounds, so I am fudging there. You just have to plan and think when towing, leave extra space, and make sure your brakes are up to snuff. Two weeks before Carlisle, I installed new pads and rotors, front and rear.
Under windy conditions, slow down, your little car WILL push you around, unless you drive a rig like Gordon's. Have fun.
Dan: all good stuff.
Dan wrote: "A good rule of thumb is the tow vehicle should be a minimum of twice the towed vehicle weight"
I can't count the number of times I've been in Ireland and seen someone towing a 26-30 foot Caravan (camper) or a 20-30 foot boat behind a Volvo wagon or a Ford Escort or a Subaru. You NEVER see that over here, but they do it all the time. I guess when it's all you have, well.......But I sure wouldn't do it!
gn
Dan wrote: "A good rule of thumb is the tow vehicle should be a minimum of twice the towed vehicle weight"
I can't count the number of times I've been in Ireland and seen someone towing a 26-30 foot Caravan (camper) or a 20-30 foot boat behind a Volvo wagon or a Ford Escort or a Subaru. You NEVER see that over here, but they do it all the time. I guess when it's all you have, well.......But I sure wouldn't do it!
gn