trans coupler to shift tube coupling

You would have to cut a hole.

It is pretty strange that the access opening was removed during the shortening.  Typically that is done farther forward on the pan.

I was surprised, chassis # is there but immediately behind that by about  2 inches is the vertical steel for the "seat?".

from the center of the shifter to the base of the "seat" is +/- 28 & 1/2".  Does this tell you anything?

You cannot access the shift rod coupler from underneath.  I have also never seen a pan shortened to eliminate the coupler inspection cover (unless it's a weird, tube frame chassis and even then, there should be coupler access - They needed it to put the coupler in there during the build, right?

You may be looking in the wrong place.  Usually the coupler cover is partially underneath the rear seat cushion in the centerline of the tunnel.  Lift the seat cushion and you should see the cover or a large (3" X 6") elliptical hole.

Typically, the shift coupler inside of the tunnel is held in place by two "grub screws" and yes, one of them might have loosened up, but I would still check the shift lever base first.  

What you need to do is adjust the base of the shift lever.  If you're having trouble with 1'st, reverse and 2'nd (left side of pattern) then you need to loosen the shifter base bolts just enough to allow the base to move, then use a thin punch (a fancy name for a large, flat screwdriver) and gently tap the base either left or right (there is enough slop between base and bolts to allow quite a bit of travel).  Get it to move 1/8" or so, re-tighten the bolts and road test it.  If it got worse, go back and push the base in the opposite direction.  This may take a few tries as you "dial it in", but you should eventually get it to hit all gears correctly.

If it turns out that you find the coupler cover and one or both grub screws have loosened, put Locktite blue on them and replace them.  They should also have holes through the heads so you can use some mechanic's wire through them so they'll never back out again.

@Jerry Wolfe posted:

I was surprised, chassis # is there but immediately behind that by about  2 inches is the vertical steel for the "seat?".

Ok.  The cover should be just behind that vertical piece.  Pull up the seat cushion and you should see the cover.

OK, I am basing a lot of assumptions on the VW you tube videos I have watched.  Never occurred to me that the cover is under the seat. Thank you for the heads up. I'll check right now.

Seat is glued to the floor.  I'll pull it loose tomorrow and see what I see. Thank you for taking the time to reply.

I can find 1st all the time but 1st is not always 1st.  Acts like it might be 3rd? And reverse occasionally seems as though it's only partially engaged. 

Under the seat, on mine, there is fiberglass.  I cut a piece away in such a way that I can fasten it back in place.

Thank you for the reply.  I will pull up the "seat" tomorrow and check this out.  Is yours a CMC kit?

CMC here - I had to cut an access door to remove the coupler cover plate to access coupler.  I cut FG up from the center tunnel to maybe 2" beyond where the seat front ledge would be.  I replaced it with a piece of piano hinge at the top and sealed it with duct tape.

I thought I had a photo - but here's one of a VW pan showing the forward sheet metal screw holding the inspection/access plate.

This isn't mine but you can see where a similar access door was cut - I only went back 2" where this one looks more like 4"?

Here's the crossbar that is revealed once access door is cut out.

Both Michael and I have CMC cars.  That might explain our resourcefulness.  Easy to tell us apart, though…..  Mike is the tall one.

I know nothing about CMC's   "~)

Very funny!

Thanks you guys.  Lots of ideas for me to try. All the interior trim is glued to the metal and fiberglass.  I see a mess in my future.  Now I have one of the dual carbs leaking.

Here is what I see in my "back" seat, carpet and seat removal before I can determine where to put hole.  Thanks again.

@Jerry Wolfe posted:

I can find 1st all the time but 1st is not always 1st.  Acts like it might be 3rd? And reverse occasionally seems as though it's only partially engaged.

That whole description is screaming "I need my shifter base adjusted!"

I will try centering the shifter and then roadtest.  Looks like you loosen the two shifter bolts a bit then move the shifter side to side and back and forth to find a neutral position? Sound right?

Kinda-sorta.  Loosen the base just enough that you can tap it back and forth with a flat punch and it stays where it is, then tighten the bolts and road test it to see what happens.  It is usually an iterative process.

@Alan Merklin had a good method for doing this, ( maybe @edsnova, too) but I can’t quickly find it.  Alan?  Ed?  Beuller?

Just pull the carpet up in the center for a couple of inches and you should see the one screw holding the access plate in.  Or cut carpet in center and pull to either side.  Once removed it should slide forward - but might have black mastic or even fiberglass sealing it in - so might not easily slide.

I suspect Gordon is right on with the shifter needing adjustment.  Good opportunity to clean and regrease it --- and check the nylon bushing (as they disintegrate).

The nylon bushing referenced above holds the shift rod just behind the shift lever base opening inside of the central tunnel.  You have to remove the entire shift lever and reverse lock plate underneath to find it.  

To replace the bushing, the shift rod coupler has to be removed at the rear (under the rear seat), then the shifter assembly removed, then the shift rod inched forward (water pump pliers work, here) until it clears the bushing, then remove the bushing and replace (a 6” ratchet extension holding the new bushing to guide it into place works well).  Remember to grease the shift rod for a 6” length where it passes through the bushing.  Re-assemble the coupler and re-adjust the shift lever.

Or, you can ignore all that, assume that Vintage installed a new bushing and lubed it when they built the car, and just adjust the shifter base to get the shifter lined up with where the transmission expects it to be.

I would recommend that if the crappy VW bushing is worn, replace it with something else:

https://ev4unow.com/vw-bushing/

I put one of these in a VW Thing for a customer. They are somewhat difficult to install, as they are one piece, and get retained with a snap ring. But once installed, play and wear are non existent.

A new coupler is a good idea too, make it non-urethane(as in German or Brazilian rubber).

Then the adjustment will hold for a LONG time.

The tool they sell for the bronze bushing seems expensive for what you get but it works well.

I made an installation tool out of PVC pipe and fittings.

The bushing is now made of Delrin, not brass. It has the same lifetime warranty, though.