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Guys:

I need some help. Last week the car was running like a top (jinxed myself). This week the car is backfiring only when I am in 3rd and 4th gear. The RPM are also running high when I am in third and fourth gear. When I run the car in 1st and 2nd gear it runs fine.
Mayeb unrelated or maybe related on saturday after picking up my son from Baseball practice I forget to release the emergency brake for about a four block distance. Do you think that has anything to do with it? Could I have damaged something ? Any thoughts?
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Guys:

I need some help. Last week the car was running like a top (jinxed myself). This week the car is backfiring only when I am in 3rd and 4th gear. The RPM are also running high when I am in third and fourth gear. When I run the car in 1st and 2nd gear it runs fine.
Mayeb unrelated or maybe related on saturday after picking up my son from Baseball practice I forget to release the emergency brake for about a four block distance. Do you think that has anything to do with it? Could I have damaged something ? Any thoughts?
I doubt the brakes caused this problem.

It sounds more like carburetor{s}....If you are running Webers, the motor will run through the idle gas circuit quickly when accelerating through gears 1 and 2. However 3 and 4 leave you there longer. The transition from the idle to the main metering {high speed} circuit happens around 2500 to 3000 rpm, depending on a bunch of variables.

It sounds like a partialy clogged idle jet.... blow them out for the hell of it...

Good luck.....

Leon C.
Go here, http://www.spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=8411

download the exploded view. Remove the idle jets, (make sure you don't lose the small rubber "O" rings) Pull the idle jet off of its jet holder

Take a twist tie, the kind found on bread wrappers etc. and strip off the paper. Push the wire into the small end and make sure that no crud is present (if you push from the big end, you may possibly jamb the crud into the small hole)

Reinstall then for good measures, adjust the carbs. For information on how to adjust your carbs, go here: http://www.spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=8818&sid=88d463bc5988b74aa6d31a9eb631b729
Sorry to take so long replying...

Follow Larry J.'s advice and you should be OK.

Larry would probably be the first to tell you that compressed air is prefered over the "wire" method, if available. Just make sure the wire is smaller than the jet opening. DO NOT FORCE IT into the hole as this could wedge the dirt into the jet. If the wire goes into a jet easily, you will remove 99% of any possible trash.

Good luck...

Leon C.
Actually, and for some time now, I've come to the conclusion that I don't like using compressed air to clean idle jets, for a couple of reasons.

My preferred method is to squirt a little Brake Clean into the large end of the jet then use the twist tie through the small end, followed up by a squirt of Brake Clean. (I've NEVER had a twist tie wire that was larger than the idle jet hole) Once this is done, I hold the jet up to the light and make sure it's clean.

On several occasions I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to find an idle jet after it blew out of my hand using compressed air and the natural tendency is to clean the jet from the big end thus causing dirt to trap in the small orifice.

In conclusion, regardless how you decide to clean your idle jets, NEVER clean them from the large end, only from the small end..

Gents:

First I would like to thank Larry for his help. Unfortunately the problem is still persisting. It got better but it is still backfiring when in third and fourth gear. It actually ran for a while in 4th without popping, but it then started again. I also feel like the car is not running as powerful as before. Any other ideas before I bring it to the mechanic, or is that the best solution at this point?

Thanks in advance for the help and guidance.

B.Regards,
Andres D.
If it ran OK then started to backfire, I would repeat the jet cleaning process. Often times, those idle jets will clog up again right after cleaning. Replace the fuel filters to make sure that no crud is reaching the carbs.

Check for exhaust leaks. Cold air mixed with the hot air exiting the heads will cause a backfire. Also, go to the auto parts store and purchase a can of ether (starting fluid) With the engine running, spray the fluid near the base of the intake manifolds and the base of the carbs. If the engine increases in speed, you have an intake leak. That can also cause backfiring.

Your main jets may be too small or your air correction jets too large thus causing your engine to run lean once the carbs are off the idle jets and running on the mains.

Check the carb linkage. If one carb is opening later than the other, that too can cause backfires.

If you have a point eliminator (petronix, compu-fire etc) open up the distributor, remove the module, clean its mounting surface with steel wool and re-attach using loctite on the screw. (If that module isn't grounding properly, that too can cause backfires)
Larry is exactly right. Mine clogged up repeatedly until I had the gas talk cleaned out, replaced both fuel filters, replaced as much of the fuel lines as I could, AND recleaned the carbs. No problems since then (October). It's a pain, but the fine folks over in China who make most tanks nowadays don't paint the inside - they just coat it with cosmoline to keep it from rusting. Cosmoline is a waxy substance they used to use to coat cars in transiit from the factory. It dissolves in gas. If you don't drive the car quite a lot in the beginning, you can count on this sort of problem until it's all dissolved. You can try some fuel injector cleaner in an attempt to speed the process, but you may just want to remove the tank and get it cleaned out. It's not as hard as it sounds.
Larry:

I did the it again and it got even worse this time around. I finally brought it to my local VW mechanic and he said the timing was completely off on the car. The point gap was too little, the fuel lines had dirt in them. He blew out the fuel lines, adjusted the carbs (air to gas mix was completely different for each of the carbs).

The car is running like a top now and much faster since my weight was reduced by the lack of funds in the wallet now. The idle speed seems to be a little high. It is running at about 1300 rpms, should I adjust it myself or just bring it back to him. If so how hard is it and will I risk screwing up the carbs again.

Thanks for all the help I truly appreciate it. I feel like a smuck because I was not able to do it myself.

Andres D.
Ricardo is correct.

If you adjust the idle speed screw on one carb, it must also be done on the other carb..

After setting one carb to run lower, it is also drawing less air than the other carb. When you adjust the 2nd carb, you'll never be sure that both carb's are drawing the same amount of air unless you have a device that measure air flow. Buy it now and it will save you a ton of money in the long run.

Another suggestion is to get rid of the points and condenser. Pertronix, Comp u fire and Empi make a relatively inexpensive point eliminator. Once installed, you'll never have to adjust points or, pay someone to adjust them.

see:http://pertronix.com/new_products/ignition_press/ig_pg43.htm

CB is expensive at +40.00, as I've seen the flow meters for as low as 30.00 but, this is what it looks like
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=572
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