Truss Bars

No exactly like pictured, but close.  Works like a champ

labull posted:

No exactly like pictured, but close.  Works like a champ

Is this the Medeola set up?

Yes.

This?

Yes, i have one.  one of the best mods i'v done to mr mango.

I'm  just about to embark on the same upgrade. This is the Csp version.

Here's a question for you guys with Torque Bars.

Is the 5 point necessary ? So far I've got welded up the 3 point in situ. Is it worth doing the other 2 bars?? It's really going to be a pain in the ass with the body on but do able. CSP only offer 3 point has opposed to the 5 point. Is there a reason for this??

I have the same one as Larry. I can HONESTLY say I don't think I drive it hard enough to make a single bit of difference.  I'd bet most of us fall into that category. 

"Is the 5 point necessary ?"

Are you going to track the car?  If not, then, no, you don't need a 5-point.  You probably don't need a 5-point even if you DO track it, if you get a barset with 3/4" tubes or larger.

Just remember, Kafer bars make the rear REALLY tight so expect some vibration transferred to the rest of the car.

I had a lengthy thread on here something like 2 years back when I installed mine and a lot of your questions were answered.  Here you go:

https://www.speedsterowners.com...2#384526766784056702

Thanks for that  link Gordon, still on the fence 3 or 5 point.

Although whilst typing away it makes sense l guess whilst the tools are out to do it now rather than regretting it and having to get them all out again to finish it off.

You got me thinking of a gearbox mount now. Something l never gave any thought to if I'm honest. 

Thanks

Richard

Since even a stock Beetle (with a stock engine) will bend the frame horns when driven "spiritedly" unless there's an engine support bar mounted, any time you triangulate the shock towers/frame horns  to stiffen up the rear of the car it's a good thing. Whether the 3 point is enough or the 5 point is necessary is going to be a great discussion, and the proof will be when someone with a 3 point truss bar runs it for a while (2 or 3 summers?) and the engine weatherstrip around the rear breastplate still lines up with the rest of the car. While I'm sure we have members that can vouch for the simpler bar now, I can see the extra 2 bars tying in to make a brace for rear roll bar supports.

I think a really healthy 2 liter+ could still benefit from an engine support bar, such as Stan and (I think) Bruce have designed and built. Al

Richard- A gearbox midmount like the pic below goes a long way to firming things up as well. Even with the truss bar it's possible to tear up the front trans mount without the extra support.

Just remember if you have heater boxes the Mendeola or the CSP won't clear the outlets without some serious modification.  I think the EMPI one pictured will.

The mendolia can also cause issues with some self supporting starters.

Thanks for the tips guys.

I'll start a new thread rather than hijack this one as I'm in the process of a few upgrades etc and may need some pointers from those that are already there.

TRP posted:

The mendolia can also cause issues with some self supporting starters.

Is the Mendolia a new product? ; )

Rusty S posted:

TRP posted:

The mendolia can also cause issues with some self supporting starters.

Is the Mendolia a new product? ; )

No.

I'm going to start doing some auto cross events and would like to set my car up for it.

Sounds like the tranny support should be the first mod to my 2110 then a Truss bar and motor support.

Anyone auto cross?

Rusty S posted:

TRP posted:

The mendolia can also cause issues with some self supporting starters.

Is the Mendolia a new product? ; )

No sir, just spelled wrong if that's why you couldn't find it.

http://www.coolrydescustoms.co...ndeola-products.html

Did anyone who installed either the bugpak/empi 3/4" bars or the  kustom1 1" in- house truss bar have interference issues with heater boxes? Or the starter?

my car is 2013 VS, 1915mild engine, swing Axel with a IMI101 high torque starter and stock heater boxes?

i had read some old samba post that referenced potential interference issues.

Figured I would ask before I crawl under the car and start the install process ;-)

many thanks!

I installed the Bug Pack Kafer assembly and had no interference issues with a stock VW  starter.  I have no heater boxes, anyway.  I had to manufacture new mounting tabs for those BIG bolts on the transaxle frame horns because of clearance problems with what came with it, but had no other install issues.

I installed 1" Kafer and have interference with the control lever on the driver side heater box.

Thanks guys.   I guess this is why the kustom1 guys along with the truss bar kit sent me two extra attach tabs---  Just in case I needed to cut the existing ones and re- weld the horizontal bar tabs in a different location ( closer to the bars end) to clear any interference with heater boxes.

will save playing with this for a long weekend...

thanks again

luis