Skip to main content

Got up this morning, smile on my face, title and bill of sale in hand and ready to get my Speedster registered so I can start enjoying this piece of art on wheels and then.......the state of Georgia and DMV offer a swift kick in the nuts to ruin the day. DMV stated that since this is an assembly vehicle built by hand it requires a salvage title which is $118 to apply for (not that big of a deal) and then I have to wait 4-6 for an inspection!!!! What the hell!! Totally pissed. Any words of wisdom or work arounds anyone might know of. Damn this sucks.

 

Thanks 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Every state has their own version of idiocy in the DMV.  In SC, the local office tried to get me to submit a form for a new VIN since a Beck has a tube frame and the chassis number is only 9 digits.  They couldn't figure out how to deal with anything short of 16 digits.  So I start reading this multi-page form, and I see questions like "How long is your mobile home."  After several weeks of going back and forth with them, I call the main office in the state capital.  The lady there tells me that the folks in the local office are idiots (well, she didn't use that word), and didn't know what they were talking about.  I went to the local office again, got one of them on the phone with her, and walked out with a license plate 15 minutes later.  Of course the state now says I have a 1957 "Becs".  It seems another had been registered with a typo and they wanted to use the pre-existing (but wrong) category rather than go to the trouble to create a new one.  At that point I just kept my mouth shut, took my shiny new plate, and left.

 

The moral of this story is that it'll work itself out.  You might want to call the main office and verify that the local folks have a clue what they're doing.  The ones here sure didn't.

I live in GA and have registered 5 replicas and one restoration with the same documentation that you walked in with.  I live near Atlanta and hence in the exhaust emissions area.  No one has ever asked to inspect my car.  The so-called SEMA language as adopted by GA seems very clear to me.  Some of the cars even have YOM plates - the year they look like.  Perhaps you should try another DMV (DDS) office.

Consider the advice given by guru39, someone who has accommplished the feat in your state.  That's the best advice you can get.  If he can do it, so can you.  Getting pissed off may make you feel better for short time, but won't help get the job done.  Slow but steady wins the race and keeps your blood pressure down.  Good luck, and please let others know your progress.

Here is the GA rundown:

1.  The IM had a Certificate of Origin (CO) from IM in Canada; no title.  It was registered as a 1958 Porsche 356A Roadster.  No title.  IM assigned VIN.

2.  The Ferrari 250 GTO had an AZ title as a 1962 Ferrari Special Construction and was registered in GA as a 1962 Ferrari. AZ title.  AZ assigned VIN.

3.  The Jaguar XK120 DHC had a CO from SAS in Knoxville.  It was registered as a 1953 Jaguar XK120 in GA.  No GA title.  SAS assigned VIN.

4.  The Bugatti Atlantic had a CA title as a 1937 Bugatti Atlantic Special Construction and was registered in GA as a 1937 Bugatti.  CA title.  Builder assigned VIN.

5.  The SAS Outlaw Coupe came with an SAS CO and is registered in GA as a 1957 Porsche Coupe.  No title.  SAS assigned VIN.

6.  The 1966 Mustang Convertible was registered and retitled in GA as a 1966 Ford Mustang. GA title.  Pre-17-digit VIN.

 

The IM and Jag transferred on the registration to GA and TN respectively.  The Bugatti transferred to France on the CA title.  The Mustang transferred to GA on the title.

 

I do not know why you would need a salvage title.  What is it registered as now?  Look at the clause in the GA law that says a car can be registered in the year it was built or in the year it looks like (SEMA?).  All of this has emissions and tax implications.

Dang. That is a lot of killer toys! My Nevada title states it is a 2004 Assembly Vehicle Bathtub. From the research I have done some people have it titled as the VW frame VIN (which I also have stamped on my engine) with the Make as VW and the model as Speedster. Others have it titled like yours as a 56-58 Porsche 356A and other's have it as a year built (ex 2004) VW or Porsche. My thoughts are to shoot for the VW frame date as the registered year in order to not have to worry about emissions, etc. That sound like a correct plan of attack?

 

FYI -How much did you love that 250 GT? I had always wanted and loved the early 60's 250GT Spyder.  That and the Speedster have been on the brain since I was probably 13 years old!

The GTO is probably my favorite of all the replicas.  I still have it.

 

 

You may be plagued in your GA registration by some previous attempts at registration elsewhere.  I like the 1957 Porsche approach because it avoids most of the taxes and meets the intent of GA law.  My registrations seemed to work because I always had some piece of paper that looked very official (and in fact were) that had numbers on them.  No one has ever verified anything although they were always correct.

 

I like the VW frame approach.  I have always taken the attitude in GA (may not work everywhere) that I am willing to call it whatever they want me to - a VW, Porsche 356A, a pickup truck or a firetruck.  The DMV (DDS) have never tried to fight me and seemed to want to help.  The salvage title thing seems way off base to me.  I don't believe it even accomplishes the objective.  If they will register it as a 2004 something and you have to pay taxes then so be it.  Wish I could help more.

All good. You have been a lot of help.  I am going to just speak with the inspector when he comes to checkout the Speedster Friday. That car is beautiful! 

 

Last, on a lighter note. I had someone ask if they could walk around the car today to look at it which was pretty cool. When people ask "what year?" and "is it a Speedster?" do you just say "Yes it is" or do you say "it's a replica?" I only drove two miles in the car today and already got questions so I have a feeling this might be a fairly common thing. Just wanted to see what common practice is.

 

Thanks dude!

Originally Posted by mojogoatlanta:

 

Last, on a lighter note. I had someone ask if they could walk around the car today to look at it which was pretty cool. When people ask "what year?" and "is it a Speedster?" do you just say "Yes it is" or do you say "it's a replica?" I only drove two miles in the car today and already got questions so I have a feeling this might be a fairly common thing. Just wanted to see what common practice is.

 

Thanks dude!

I'm new to this as well. Here's how I respond.

 

It's a 1957

If they ask whether or not it's real, I tell em it's a Porsche Tribute car

Sh!ts too expensive to be called a "replica" IMO

The GTO has a long and rather colorful history.  It started out about 2000 as a McBurnie body on a 1974 Datsun 260Z by The Vintage Restoration Shop (Prescott Valley, AZ/out of business).  The car was poorly assembled and was delivered to me at SAS in Knoxville for convenience.

 

Before I could get across Knoxville, the engine overheated and I ended up changing out the engine and transmission.  It ran in this configuration until about 2004.

 

Jenkins Rod Shop in NC agreed to correct some of the body defects and extend the wheelbase 4 inches to match the actual GTO.  He ended up keeping the car for several years and the body work was reasonably well done..  I finally had to send someone to retrieve the car in that it was not being worked on and had sat in the middle of a field for over two years.

 

When the car returned from NC, it sat in a local shop for several months awaiting mechanical work and a muffler system.  After some marginal work, I finally retrieved the car myself and completed the replication in my garage.  It turned out pretty well and I drive the car often now.  I would not recommend this route to anyone.  Some of the actions by the vendors was almost silly.  I will never let it out of my control again. 

 

Actually, there were 14 GTOs at Amelia but who's counting?

 

There are a few scars up close but after all this is a replica of a 50-year-old road racing car.  It still creates quite a stir locally. 

 

I am not sure about Asheville after getting rear-ended there last year.  Diane does all of the long distance driving and that was our longest trip to date.  We are not good long range planners. 

Charles:  That story reminds me of what I went through "finishing" Pearl.  I had been working on her slowly for several years and the company I worked for was expanding exponentially.  I was managing an effort to open new R&D centers in Ireland, France and Singapore and spending a lot of time on airplanes, so I farmed her out to a local Rod shop for final fit corrections and paint.  Long story short, I sort of forgot about her except when I was 6,000 miles away and then couldn't call for an update.  Long, long story short, after 18 months I was home and called them to let them know I was coming in two days to pull it out of there to either finish he myself or get it done elsewhere.  The guy convinces me that if I just leave it there for another week, he would get it finished and painted.  Son-of-a-gun, he did.  Did a great job, too.

 

So, you see, these non-enthusiastic "Custom Builders" seem to be everywhere.

The depth of knowledge behind the counters at DMV is a variable that boils down to 'luck of the draw'

 

This past winter I was nervous about registering my out of state replica. I was advised to wear my veterans cap, smile, make eye contact and nod frequently! BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY, for subtle intimidation purposes, have big bold notary seals on every piece of paper!!

 

It worked. Easy in easy out.

I am here in GA as well. I've registered two replicas and had no problems. They were both

registered as the VW chassis underneath. Makes insurance easier too since the pans had real VIN numbers. I use Hagerty and have stated value policies.

 

 

Whether Porsche built it or not it is still a SPEEDSTER! I call mine a widebody Speedster when asked.

 

David

I hope you guys are aware of the difference between stated value and agreed value.  With stated value, in case of a total, the insurance company decides how much the vehicle is worth, based party, of course on its registration as a 40+ year old VW.

 

With agree value, you and the insurance agree on a total value of the car, which doesn't change if it's totaled. 

 

If you have stated value, don't think that you are fooling the ins. company by putting a high value on the car.  That value is only used to determine your policy cost, not the value of the vehicle.  You'll be paid off at the market value of an old bug.

It is not titled as salvage, just as a VW. I have a buddy that works for Lawrenceville PD and he says they see dune buggies and the occasional kit car tag/insured that way. No problems for them.

 

This statement is off of Hagertys website. Stated value works just like a standard policy.

 

What is the difference between Hagerty's "Agreed Value" coverage and other types of insurance coverage?

 

There are three types of value related coverage offered in the marine insurance industry today:

  1. Actual Cash Value: This is the coverage type found most often on homeowners policies. It pays out a depreciated, “book value” in the event of a claim. The older the boat on this kind of policy, the less value it has.
  2. Stated Value: These policies are better than Actual Cash Value because they allow you to “state” a value for your boat greater than its depreciated book value. But, these policies can still depreciate vessels, because they usually allow the insurance company to pay “up to’ the stated policy amount.
  3. Agreed Value: Only Agreed Value polices guarantee you will get all of your insured value back in the event of a total loss. There is no depreciation of a vessel’s value with an Agreed Value policy, although many companies will still apply a deductible in the case of a total loss. Hagerty Classic Marine Agreed Value policies waive the deductible in the event of a total loss.

 

David
Originally Posted by carlberry:

...I think you and Hagerty both 'agreed' that the 'stated value' of your auto is 19K !! Remember, Hagarty is an agent, a broker, NOT the company underwriting your insurance policy.

 

Obtaining an Agreed Value policy is difficult to come by, and requires jumping through a lot of hoops with a whole lot of documentation.

 Carl.  I have to disagree.  Obtaining an "Agreed Value" policy is not difficult to come by at all and there are no special hoops to jump through.  Maybe you are speaking about trying to obtain one from one of the big companies like Allstate or Geico or something.  Hagarty is a good example of how easy it is, but I don't use them because of their restriction on driving the car to work.

Last edited by Troy Sloan

Carl, have to say I am with Troy on this one. My Spyder has been insured with Hagerty since 2005, and has an AGREED value of 28K. I doubt I could replace it for that, unless I did all the work! Anyway, I have had two claims and they take VERY good care of you. One of the best companies I have ever had dealings with IMHO. Less than $500 for a whole year.

 

I just turned over 25,000 miles the other day!

 

As others say, your mileage may vary........

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×