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Mel, hard to tell (ticking)from your description. Not that your
description is lacking it s just hard without hearing it personally.
As for the adjusted valves yes you'll hear distinct metallic
ticks with properly adjusted valves. I am "assuming" (I'm sure they've
done plenty) that the valves where set at the right temp and clearence. If you want to learn (and double check) it's very easy.
Get yourself a video or book which explains the process, two new valve
cover gaskets and a feeler gauge. You don't even need any "tools" to
do the job other than a screw driver to pop the wire bale off the cover. As for the knock are you speaking of engine run on after you
shut the ignition off? What kind of Carb(s) do you have. A stock
VW carb has a solenoid on the side that pinches off the the fuel flow
at shutdown. Do you have this? Is it working? If you do, place the key
in the on position, remove the wire from the carb body and repeatedly
touch the solenoid. You'll hear the solenoid clicking if it's working.
A properly set up car should not need "additives"====B.S.
You have to ask yourself "did it do this before?". I think your answer is no so something changed. When?===Good Luck
Boy, I guess I should read all of your post before replying.
Dual solex's. Sorry for the ranting. But either way if something changed from when you brought it in I would "assume" one of the things changes/adjusted is the new source of your issue. Is the
original sputtering gone?
Mel, the best thing to do (for your peace of mind) is to check the valves yourself). There are a number of sources out there that give you a step by step procedure. Loose valves are a PITA, but tight valves can cause ACD (air cooled death). This is in no way associated with ADD, which many of my students claim to suffer from. Another term for ADD is LAZY. This is something that many of my students suffer from!
Thanks for the advice...

Bruce, the sputtering is gone. The metallic ticking noise will take some getting used too. I'm going with the shop owner's experience on this. I've spoken to both, and they are good people. They will stand behind their work. As far as the knocking, I will avoid the lead additive. If it persist, I will bring the car back for adjustment. It has not done it before.

Ron L and Ron O - I've looked at the knowledge section and located the article. I think learning will always lead to peace of mind. Lambros - I'll be looking for that video!

Thanks again - Mel
Mel; when I did the first valve adjustment in my VS (can't recall if it was at the 300 mile mark) and I started the engine I noticed it was noisier than before (the ticking was noticeable). I set it up as per factory specs and the ticking is normal. I'm pretty sure that the valves were set tighter than factory specs when I got the car from VS; hence they were less noisier. On air cooled VW's it's better to have loose adjustment; your engine will run cooler and live longer.
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