turn signal switch - what to use?

My donor(s) has a modern style steering column with integrated turn and headlight switches.

What to use for the traditional speedster style. The headlight and wiper switches are easy enough but how about the turn signal?
I see this but 95.00, out of stock, and will it fit a 66 or 73 column

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-953-513-A

If I drop the column mounted switches, what did the Speedster have as a headlight dimmer - old style floor switch?

Robert, the pictures of Mickey Donatello's car are pretty descriptive for a modified turn signal arrangement that looks correct to the period -- not perfect and not Porsche, but really, really close to the right idea. He's after perfect, and probably will get there eventually.
I believe he did it all himself. You might want to e-mail him for specifics.
I don't know if the bright/dimmer switch is incorporated into the turn signal stalk or not. I don't have any switches at all on my steering column. I decided to put the turn signal switch on top of the tunnel, right in front of the hand-brake lever, and the dimmer switch for my headlights is under the dash, over my left knee. The intent there was to keep the switch from getting corroded and/or damaged hanging out from under the car. I figured what the hell, right? My car's so customized now ... why not?
Even if you're an electrical engineer, you're going to have a devil of a time trying to figure out the horn, too. You could save yourself a great deal of headache and use a button on the dash for that.

A 67 bus is a good donner.. It looks almost identical to what was used . and new switches are available. It also has the dimmer built in it. making it even nicer and very user friendly.

Look at my pics in the oldyelr gallery.

The one other upgrade I recommended is to use the superbeetle steering link. Sounds easy but you have to shorten the column some which is already a bit short anyway.

Then you can pic out the steering wheel YOU want

Agreed! Those u-joint Super Beetle shafts are neat!

But . . . don't use a bus blinker housing, only the internal mechanism. The Type II steering column has a MUCH smaller diameter than a Beetle. On Buses the steering shaft is attached to the steering box, not coupled to it like in a Type I. The column tube is a smaller diameter and the hole in the blinker housing is similarly sized. You're gonna have to get a housing from an early Beetle.

URRR: opps He's right a 61` thru 66 bug. is better. I actually now remember taking a 2 inch exhaust pipe and making a new shaft housing over lay to make it work

Wait a minute ....67 bus column and 67 bus switch .. that's a no brainier ... They fit perfect...

Hey guys read my post more carefully.. I used a beetle column and then had to make a overlay... TC don't mess with me I'm stress out enough these days.....

Here are two useful links on horn wiring:

http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqhorn.htm

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_12_00/wired_12_00.htm

I used a '67 bus switch.

I made a new steering column tube out of copper pipe. I used a fitting on the upper end to enlarge it to take the Beetle bearing. I also had to change the spring to make it work with the hub I made.

I wish someone had mentioned earlier using the outer part of an early beetle switch.

Barry

Is this the steering link you are referring to:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-415-951-B

Is it a direct fit to the box? I understand that the shaft needs shortening

Looks like this should solve the problem of the steering wheel not being centered in front of the driver?

It's listed as a U-joint steering shaft pt# VWC-113-415-951-B.

And yes it does solve the centering issue..

FYI, here is a new repro for the 67 bus switch. 40 - 50 bucks more than a used one on Samba but it is new.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-211-953-513-F&CartID=57

If I cannot find the bus column, I will change the outer tube on a Beetle one to fit this switch. This causes no problem with the Flat 4 banjo wheel I am ordering so maybe the best way to go for me

You will do fine. but the steering wheel is most comfortable about 4 inches away from the dash eyebrow. That gives you decent knuckle room. But it will push you to get room for the u joint shaft at the lower end Mine was a snug fit..

Barry, did you have to provide support for the U-joint?

I did have to add a additional 6 inch plate at the lower end of the column. to increase the bolt in area into the fiberglass. which is hard in such a tight area.

Then make a smaller pipe clamp out of a muffler clamp to bolt the lower end of the pipe down.

"If I cannot find the bus column, I will change the outer tube on a Beetle one to fit this switch."


How?

I can guess!

First get a 3 ft peace of 2 inch exhaust pipe and slice it down one side to make it the correct diameter then Mig wield it back together .

Wolfberg West, has the switch and the shaft bearings and collars for the bus column . That's easy

That should fix ya right up.

I have had to make peaces for my custom bug heater this way. I have even made elbow tees to split the airflow.

OH YEA! It can be done!

Metric pipe is hard to find!!

Barry - how about a pic of the lower end mod

Wouldn't it be better to get a VW Beetle after0market switch and the correct year VW Beetle column from TheSamba?

Less work, looks correct, Easy Peasy. If you MUST have the high beam in the switch rather than on the floor, used the internals from the bus switch and the housing from the Beetle. REALLY easy swap, just two tiny screws. Then you can use the VW column and that neat little metal wire cover as well, plus you can use the stock VW collars and bearing and shims and all. Not to mention the VW horn brushes and such.

Seems like you're doing a TON of extra work where NONE is needed if you just buy the right pieces from the start.

I mean, REALLY. This is the EASY stuff. Why complicate it? Save the messing around for your rear wheel disks, four lug to wide five lug conversion, and front end sway bar mounting. There are enough genuine problems, don't make up more.

Luck,

ForUm TuRD

Getting confused now
What Beetle switch?

If one has to buy a switch and column is this any different from the bus switch and column method.

Now if I can buy an old style switch to fit my existing column(s) then this is the way to go

Ideally you want an original or repro blinker switch and wire cover for a 1957 VW Beetle. This is a "bolt-on" for the column that you currently have in your car. This switch is nearly identical to that used in the original Speedsters, and will require a floor mounted hi/lo beam switch.

If you want even MORE authenticity, use the column and column mounting bracket/gasket from the same car. The column tube comes with the horn brush attached.


If you want the the hi/lo beam switch as part of the blinker, use the Beetle housing and wire cover and the internal electrics from the 1966/67 VW Bus. The Bus arm looks nearly identical to the blinker switch arm from the 356C and the Beetle housing looks identical to the 356A so you're car will have a nice Porsche look to the whole assembly.

Should you decide to use the VW Bus electrics, you MAY have to open up the slot in the housing to accept the thicker blinker arm, this will depend upon the after-marker manufacturer of the housing. No matter . . . this is an easy Dremel job. I'll do it for you if you like.

Honestly, if you feel uncomfortable with the whole process, I'll swap out the internals, enlarge the opening, and paint it up for you, no problem at all.

I'm not trying to push you in any direction, just make things easier for you. The VW Beetle assembly is a bolt-on, the VW Bus assembly requires much more work to achieve the same "look." The only difference between the two is essentially the hi/lo option built into the Bus electrics which, as I said, can be placed within the Beetle housing. Keeping the results as a bolt-on rather than a bit of a chore.



"First get a 3 ft piece of 2 inch exhaust pipe and slice it down one side to make it the correct diameter then Mig wield it back together . "

Using the Bus switch and Bus column tube set-up is along the lines of Donald Sutherland (Oddball) sliding the larger pipe over the smaller gun barrel on his tank in KELLY'S HEROS. Way too much silliness for just a "look." May as well do it correctly by using both the switch and column tube from a Beetle.

Luck !!

FoRUm TUrd

The 1966 beetle turn switch is what normally comes with a VS build It does not look correct in these car's.

The 67 bus turn switch is almost a perfect match to what was used by Porsche back in the day..

It is a EXCELLENT! upgrade...

.... or just grind the '67 bus turn signal housing where it attaches to the steering column until it's the appropriate size. I did it on the JPS with a '67 bus switch, and it worked/looked perfect, and took about 10 minutes.

I used one of those 1-1/2" drum sanders that attaches to the end of a drill, and bought a pack of the 80 grit wheels. The pot metal is soft. It goes quick.

After you ground out the hole in the housing, what did you use for the metal half round insert?

As I recall, it wasn't very hard (other than grinding on a NOS switch I REALLY overpaid for).

I left the clamshell screwed together (with about 1/8" between the halves- I used some spacers), half-moon in place and drew a line with a sharpie. All that was left to do at that point is to insert the drum in hole, work it around until I was at the mark, and dry fit the piece a couple of times. Too little is better than too much.

Easy peasy.

"Too little is better than too much."

I'll check with my wife and get back to you on that one . . .