Turn signals, Engine lid release problems

VS is really slipping...

Do you have any pictures of the engine bay?

Bill,  

The turn signal issue will be within the switch unit itself have Kirk send you another one. The Steering wheel will have to be removed, there is a small set screw on the left side of the signal stalk assembly that gets loosened for removal, be careful to label the wires.

The deck lid: you can get it open by removing the deck lid grill, at the bottom of the lid opening you'll see a nut, remove that nut & remove the remaining stud , the deck lid will open . You may be able to reattach the cable knob but I'm not sure what the latest cable style may be...or you'll need a replacement deck cable.

Now that I am truly done building speedsters, maybe I'll fly around the country fixing stuff..... for others :~)

Slowshoes---Definitely "sorting time has arrived for you"  that's part of the reason it's called the Madness.  Any sane person would have bought a Miata.  But then they'd have a Miata. Pity.

I hope you got your engine lid cable fixed.  Here's an idea for you and everyone else reading this.  This isn't my original idea , I got it off some smart dude on the SOC.  Get yourself some aircraft safety wire, or similar and hook one end of it to the actuating mechanism of the release which is right inside the opening at the bottom.  Do it so when you pull down on the wire, the release releases and opens the engine cover.  Then  attach the other end of the wire somewhere below the release where you can reach from below it if the regular cable ever breaks.

I believe I'll see if this idea will work for the front trunk release also.

SOC---the source of madness relief.

Jack Crosby posted:

 

...I believe I'll see if this idea will work for the front trunk release also...

 

Jack, I think it's easier in the front.

I'm pretty sure I can just reach up from underneath and get to the hood release on my VS. This is why you should never keep your Dom Perignon or your Bruno Magli driving shoes in the frunk of a VS.

crhemi (Bill) poboiinhawaii posted:

VS is really slipping...

Do you have any pictures of the engine bay?

 

 BIll,

 When I get the lid open, I'll post some. Maybe you guys will be able to give me some info on the engine going by pics.

Alan Merklin posted:

Bill,  

The turn signal issue will be within the switch unit itself have Kirk send you another one. The Steering wheel will have to be removed, there is a small set screw on the left side of the signal stalk assembly that gets loosened for removal, be careful to label the wires.

The deck lid: you can get it open by removing the deck lid grill, at the bottom of the lid opening you'll see a nut, remove that nut & remove the remaining stud , the deck lid will open . You may be able to reattach the cable knob but I'm not sure what the latest cable style may be...or you'll need a replacement deck cable.

Now that I am truly done building speedsters, maybe I'll fly around the country fixing stuff..... for others :~)

  Thanks for the great info Alan - if you do fly around the country fixing others cars, please make my house your first stop!

Jack Crosby posted:

Slowshoes---Definitely "sorting time has arrived for you"

 

 

 I wish it would have waited a little longer! Thanks for the idea on the back up release - I'll definitely do that. I'll be checking out the front as well. Hopefully, as Mitch says, I'll just be able to reach up and release it. I can imagine this happening in front while the car is running on fumes!

 Thanks for the help guys - I'll let you know how it goes.

Alan,

 I got the nut off the bolt, but the bolt, while loose, won't push through - even tapping on it with a hammer. Any ideas?

Bill

 Got it - removed a piece of the engine baffling. That gave direct access - now on to the cable repair.

This wont help you now but for the future.......I attached another cable operated from underneath the car (spare hole in the tin) 2 cables attache to the mechanism. For the front - hood, I drilled a small hole from under the wing directly in line with the latch, then used a wire coat hanger to make a pull with a D handle. Both can be accessed from the outside but they're not obvious.

  I was able to push on the cable in the engine compartment which got the threaded end at the door panel poking back through. Adjusted the cable and now everything is working fine. Going to the store now to pick up more cable and some blue Loctite (only have the red at home).

  I'm going to go over the front when I get back home - I plan on making secondary cables for both the front and back.

 srblower - I'm not sure what you mean by the "wing" - could you elaborate?

  Thanks all,

   Bill

Ha - the English language translation!  

wing = fender

Boot = trunk

bonnet = hood

hood = convertible top

dynamo = generator/alt

wanker = someone who hacks on car clueless

I thought a "Wanker/Wanka" was a "Jack-Off" ??

aircooled posted:

I thought a "Wanker/Wanka" was a "Jack-Off" ??

!!

 Thanks for the translations Wolfgang!

 Bill

aircooled posted:

I thought a "Wanker/Wanka" was a "Jack-Off" ??

A wanker is in fact one who wanks.

Robert M posted:

aircooled posted:

I thought a "Wanker/Wanka" was a "Jack-Off" ??

A wanker is in fact one who wanks.

DONT EVER WINK at a WANKER.......

Ha......yes, wing = fender

I think the blinker can be adjusted. Sounds like it needs to be moved up closer to the steering wheel then rotated a little until both sides catch and release properly.

 Hey Rusty - I owe you a beer! Found a set screw, loosened it up, and moved the ring forward. As I did that, the ring kind of snapped into place, and now everything is working as it should. Thanks so much!

 Bill