type 1 alternator

Have you driven it by a starter/alternator repair shop?  It might just be the internal regulator or a bad diode that could possibly be fixed without removing it.  Looks like a rebuilt unit but check your receipts as they often come with lifetime warranty.

I'll suggest you get rid of that old style  alt with the external regulator and buy a new single wire one for $100...actually 2 wires the B+ heavy red wire goes to battery lug on the starter solenoid and the other is the "61" wire that goes up to dash alt light.

Dr. Clock knows best -- follow his advice.  And if you ever have to finagle with the instrument lights, try real hard not to get the wires mixed up.  If you happen to swap out the red ignition light with one of the lamp wires, your engine will only charge when you turn on your lights, and the instrument lamp will act kinda funny.  You may not ask how I know this.

"And when I turn on my headlights, my heater comes on!"

Looks like a Motorola alternator - not sure why the red tape and American flag?

http://www.vw-resource.com/alternator_rebuilding.html

Thanks for all the quick advice. Dr. Clock referred to the 'newer' style with the 2 wire system..... for approx $100?   What is the manufacturer and p/n for a unit to fit my 1969 based 1835 unit.  and a suggested source if known.......thanks again, john fitz

also is it possible to remove the alternator and fan assy in one piece from the front?

Yes John. That's how it comes out. If you have a hexbar carb linkage bar in front of the fan cover, you'll likely have to remove it first. Then... Remove the belt and pulley. Undo electrical connections. Then remove the nuts around the perimeter of the fan cover, then finally undo the band clamp that secures the alt. to the stand. The alt. and fan will withdraw from it's mount as one unit.

P.S. I just looked at your pics and it looks like you have a single carb. set up. If so, you most likely will have to remove the carb if the circular fan cover will not clear it as you withdraw it out to the rear.

~WB

Here's one for $60  many on eBay and any VW parts house

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Al...xYxUv7WV&vxp=mtr

and another with higher 85 amp and free shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volksw...oA1RWv5M&vxp=mtr

Yes sir, we're here to help. You got a problem, We got a solution. Wanna know the straight skinny, ask the SOC. None finer, we know it all.

Hi everybody ...Happy New Year, thanks for your quick responses to my earlier questions to identify what alt would be a good replacement for my failed unit with illegible markings.
NEW "short story" good newes is finally received my replacement......of the 2 options suggested 1) remove the 36mm nut from the back of the fan and pull the alt out (minus fan ) directly thru the fan housing or 2) open up a path for the removal of the alt w/fan attached. I opted for #2 because of the "frozen" nut/need impact wrench issue suggested by some others. Upon further investigation, my single weber setup would require removal not only the carb itself but the entire intake manifold to allow clearance for the total fan package move out.
This took me back to try option #1 ( removal of the rear fan nut).
This proved not to be a problem, but after removing the retaining strap,I'm meeting some resistance to pulling the alt. out. I'm hoping it is just a tight fit and I can put some muscle into it, but i'm concerned that the front plate/cover still has to come with it, ugh........could you throw some light on this , I'd really appreciate it. tks, john fitz ( Fiberfab 356C )

Your correct that your intake may be causing you some issues. Which means unbolting the manifolds and at boots if it is a 3 piece design. It's difficult to help without a clear picture of what you have.

as for the alternator. You have older external regulator design. Almost everything available is internal regulator design now. Your options is to have yours rebuilt, buy that 100.00 made in China one or a Bosch for 225.00. Both those are std 55 amp.

if you step up to a 75 amp keep in mind these are imported also. Your charging light may stay on when you first start the motor. The high amp alternators don't put out much initially at idle and once you rev past 1500 the light should go out.

good luck, message me if you have any questions

Hi Anthony, tks for the quick reply...my replacement alt is a 75 amp unit. Although i did build my speedster and engine completely, in my former home's garage, I'm currently in a condo which frowns on any perceived 'engine' work in my assigned garage space so whatever 'work' I do must be relatively quick and not draw a lot of attention.  My specific question is; even if I disengage the fan ( remove the 36mm nut ) and remove the holding strap,  do I still have to unbolt the front fan cover or with some coaxing can I pull the old alt directly out without the additional work of uninstalling my carb/intake manifold asy. I know the bolt removal can be an issue but I've already done that so either I reinstall it and go for the bigger prep job or preferably I can just pull the alt out of the fan case??

After removing the 36mm nut you then loosen and remove the strap. Then the four (4)  10mm head bolts that hold the backing plate to the shroud. This is the tricky part. I don't know which manifold you are using. The stock ones allow barely enough room to remove the alt backing plate out and upward.  Send or post a picture of the manifold.

call me if you need to. 1-916-255-7996

Anthony, I think you've answered my question...I have the 3 pc ( boots) configuration...if the backing plate has to removed regardless, and I can't just pull the alt thru it, then I'm committed to continue the dismantling of the manifold as well. A little more work but no big deal, thanks again [ I still have a couple of hours of daylight so you know what I'll be doing] ...john fitz

I now have a new Bosch. They are not cheap. I tried one of the Chinese units "we have never had one come back." Well mine failed in a week. Spend the money for the best. You will thank yourself years from now. 

Guys ,tks for your good advice....I have another question- - -this alt replacement has turned into a major undertaking,  Since I have a center stack weber w/the 3pc intake,I have to remove the center connector pipe to get clearance for the alt/fan assy pull out . After removing some tin , to get accsess to the heat riser bolts to free up ythe center pc., I find I don't have enough room to the left to slide the assy off of the attaching  stud located below it on the upper engine case. At  first I though the tube dia might be  slightly smaller and could slide into the manifold enough to clear the stud _ NOT!  Am I missing something or do I have to actually remove the left manifold to get the necessary clearance,ugh.. help  : ) , john fitz

I know for a Weber Progressive, I needed to remove the manifold,  might as well both replace the intake gaskets too. 

It's difficult to tell without seeing it. But you may be better removing the manifolds. 

Replace the cast intake gaskets at the head and check your rubber boots that seal your weber manifold to the cast piece.  Replace those boots if the are hard.

As a general (and somewhat frustrating) rule, I have found that taking more stuff apart and proceeding from there is faster and easier than standing back and scratching my chin wondering if I can "get away with" not taking more stuff apart.

—The frustrating part being much more associated with the immediate aftermath of the standing-back-chin-scratching part of the operation than the taking-more-stuff-apart part. 

edsnova posted:

As a general (and somewhat frustrating) rule, I have found that taking more stuff apart and proceeding from there is faster and easier than standing back and scratching my chin wondering if I can "get away with" not taking more stuff apart.

—The frustrating part being much more associated with the immediate aftermath of the standing-back-chin-scratching part of the operation than the taking-more-stuff-apart part. 

Ummmm, yes. I am there right now. I think quite near the aftermath.....maybe.

Tks everybody...I've gotten much appreciated advice from several of you along the way this week ,but I have to hand it to edsnova for his approach to my last question. I actually mentioned this to my brother this afternoon , that is;  time invested in trying to get out of a task can exceed the time to actually do it. Tomorrow I will finally clear a path to remove my ^^&%#@$%^ alternator/ fan assy., replace it , reinstall the removed hardware and drive off into the sunset remembering all the support I got from all you guys--I am also going to become a supporting member of this 'speedster' community. john fitz  

John, if you need to rip out the windshield frame, you've gone too far.