What are the differences with these types of VW motors? I see that the type 4 cost more. Can someone explain the details?
Marty G.
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What are the differences with these types of VW motors? I see that the type 4 cost more. Can someone explain the details?
Marty G.
Marty G.
Where are you Jake?
Reminds me of the Beatles song " Long and Winding Road "
Marty,
...do a search here there is more than enough info on this topic.
Marty,
...do a search here there is more than enough info on this topic.
They both are good T-4s can be built to much bigger displacement. But will cost you a ment. and have to be converted to upright. which is not their normal suitcase cofiguration.
T-1s can go almost as big and you have a wider selection of parts to build by. and are a bit easyer to build. and the mainstream parts busness is geared to Type 1s
T-4 usally have more torque than T-1s But crank strokes and heads are avaible that NOW make eather able to have good torque.
My main concern is use a good quality Aluminum case eather way it will make a difference in how well it stays sealed and leak free.
T-1s can go almost as big and you have a wider selection of parts to build by. and are a bit easyer to build. and the mainstream parts busness is geared to Type 1s
T-4 usally have more torque than T-1s But crank strokes and heads are avaible that NOW make eather able to have good torque.
My main concern is use a good quality Aluminum case eather way it will make a difference in how well it stays sealed and leak free.
Marty, it really depends on what you want to do with your car. There's a bit of a rift here from time to time, as Alan suggests, between T-I and T-IV folks. VW people might refer to them as "Bug" and "Bus" engines, respectively. Both are Volkswagen.
Barry hit the nail on the head, too. The Bus engine doesn't want to live in the back of a Beetle. Its normal environment is the 411/412, the Bus (and all of its descendants through the early 70s), the 914 and some aircraft.
Torque and heat are the divisions. If you don't mind running multiple coolers and spending a thousand bucks or so on a fan shroud -- from any number of sources -- then you can convert a Bus engine for use in a Speedster. The sheet metal that usually surrounds a Bus engine will not work in your car. The cooling system will not work in your car. The cylinders and heads will not be easy to find without spending some money and it might be difficult to conjure up some exhaust pipes and the right transaxle for your purposes.
Bus engines come in a few displacements from source vehicles, the most common (in my experience) being the 1.8 and 2.0. 914s are dying by the dozens, usually more from rust and neglect than anything else. In a 914, if the longitudinals are shot, the car is generally not salvageable without a lot of welding. Most wind up on the scrap heap, and their engines and transaxles (mid-mounted) are a bit of a pain to remove in the junkyard setting. You'll find the most useful 914 donors in backyards or through the classifieds. A 914 with a working, useful donor engine is pretty EASY to find for under $5K; half of what a built Bus engine will cost. Your biggest problem will be to figure out what to do with the carcass.
Sometimes, they turn up cheap: http://www.volksride.com/marketplace/index.php?a=2&b=226 -- but you don't always get a gem. This one is only an example; I have no idea whether what the ad says is true or not. Seems above-board, but it's across the continent from you. It's been my limited experience that the modifications on the Bus mill are to put different cylinders and pistons on them, making the dimensions of the engine itself change. 914 owners aren't as likely to change that geometry because the cars themselves are too inexpensive to modify an entire exhaust system. The fabrication of an exhaust system won't be as difficult or expensive in an unmodified engine, and even the smallest one will be torquier (is that a word?) than a Bug engine out of the box.
If you were to look for a donor car to get a Bus engine from, that'd be where I'd start. It's a relatively inexpensive way to obtain an engine in the 2.0 range. The newest one is older than dirt. They stopped making them in the 70s.
As for the other engine type ... What was that called? Type what? lol
Barry hit the nail on the head, too. The Bus engine doesn't want to live in the back of a Beetle. Its normal environment is the 411/412, the Bus (and all of its descendants through the early 70s), the 914 and some aircraft.
Torque and heat are the divisions. If you don't mind running multiple coolers and spending a thousand bucks or so on a fan shroud -- from any number of sources -- then you can convert a Bus engine for use in a Speedster. The sheet metal that usually surrounds a Bus engine will not work in your car. The cooling system will not work in your car. The cylinders and heads will not be easy to find without spending some money and it might be difficult to conjure up some exhaust pipes and the right transaxle for your purposes.
Bus engines come in a few displacements from source vehicles, the most common (in my experience) being the 1.8 and 2.0. 914s are dying by the dozens, usually more from rust and neglect than anything else. In a 914, if the longitudinals are shot, the car is generally not salvageable without a lot of welding. Most wind up on the scrap heap, and their engines and transaxles (mid-mounted) are a bit of a pain to remove in the junkyard setting. You'll find the most useful 914 donors in backyards or through the classifieds. A 914 with a working, useful donor engine is pretty EASY to find for under $5K; half of what a built Bus engine will cost. Your biggest problem will be to figure out what to do with the carcass.
Sometimes, they turn up cheap: http://www.volksride.com/marketplace/index.php?a=2&b=226 -- but you don't always get a gem. This one is only an example; I have no idea whether what the ad says is true or not. Seems above-board, but it's across the continent from you. It's been my limited experience that the modifications on the Bus mill are to put different cylinders and pistons on them, making the dimensions of the engine itself change. 914 owners aren't as likely to change that geometry because the cars themselves are too inexpensive to modify an entire exhaust system. The fabrication of an exhaust system won't be as difficult or expensive in an unmodified engine, and even the smallest one will be torquier (is that a word?) than a Bug engine out of the box.
If you were to look for a donor car to get a Bus engine from, that'd be where I'd start. It's a relatively inexpensive way to obtain an engine in the 2.0 range. The newest one is older than dirt. They stopped making them in the 70s.
As for the other engine type ... What was that called? Type what? lol
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Since everyone's asleep while I'm over here dialing in the Zippo and aiming lighter fluid ... Let me just say I don't know a dang thing about the unmodified Type I engine. I do like the mods you can make, but I think you're talking about something out of the box, no?
Tongue in cheek, here goes ... :
I've decided that the Bug engine is better for all-around ease of maintenance, parts-swapping and wheeling-dealing stuff. The parts joint can probably come up with Bug pieces in any number of combinations, and if you're a do-it-yourselfer with a wire wheel and some patience, you can make old parts look new again.
For what it's worth, I've both driven a (I guess) "built" Type I (Kelly Frazer's car has one) and a moderately well-put-together Type IV. I like Kelly's car for the highway better than mine, because it's got less oomph when you hit the pedal, and you're less likely to break stuff if you're getting your power higher in the band.
His car really seems to hit its stride at about 3500 rpms in third, and it'll hang out there all day with no real need for fourth until you hit the highway -- in my car, I'd overheat if I drove it like that.
He's also got new, aftermarket parts. I can't seem to get those reliably -- but every time I turn around, he's got some new thing hanging off his engine that he just went to the Walgreens and bought.
I'm exaggerating a little. Maybe. But it's also a better-than-stock Bug engine. It's reliable, it shouldn't puke oil, it's engineered well, it's balanced, ported, polished, blueprinted ... It's as well built as any engine in a Speedster anywhere, and he swears by it.
He also lives on a back-country road in the middle of frigging nowhere, and he'd get killed if he was grunting my engine around low in the band. For him, it's perfect.
But it doesn't matter. They're not very pretty. For me, it might as well be one of these:
Tongue in cheek, here goes ... :
I've decided that the Bug engine is better for all-around ease of maintenance, parts-swapping and wheeling-dealing stuff. The parts joint can probably come up with Bug pieces in any number of combinations, and if you're a do-it-yourselfer with a wire wheel and some patience, you can make old parts look new again.
For what it's worth, I've both driven a (I guess) "built" Type I (Kelly Frazer's car has one) and a moderately well-put-together Type IV. I like Kelly's car for the highway better than mine, because it's got less oomph when you hit the pedal, and you're less likely to break stuff if you're getting your power higher in the band.
His car really seems to hit its stride at about 3500 rpms in third, and it'll hang out there all day with no real need for fourth until you hit the highway -- in my car, I'd overheat if I drove it like that.
He's also got new, aftermarket parts. I can't seem to get those reliably -- but every time I turn around, he's got some new thing hanging off his engine that he just went to the Walgreens and bought.
I'm exaggerating a little. Maybe. But it's also a better-than-stock Bug engine. It's reliable, it shouldn't puke oil, it's engineered well, it's balanced, ported, polished, blueprinted ... It's as well built as any engine in a Speedster anywhere, and he swears by it.
He also lives on a back-country road in the middle of frigging nowhere, and he'd get killed if he was grunting my engine around low in the band. For him, it's perfect.
But it doesn't matter. They're not very pretty. For me, it might as well be one of these:
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I bought a '75 1.8 Porsche 914 from a rust bucket. Have yet to take it fully apart and rebuild it. Stock it was like 85 HP - so right there you are double a T1. I wish I hadn't removed all the pancake tin and sold off the FI (I didn't get the FI brain). (1.7L was 76 HP and 2L was 95).(The FI is expensive to repair but did a decent job on a stock engine). I truely believe it would have fit in the back of a Speedie with the stock setup (after all that is how it is in the short lived '76 912E). The T4 stock is about 5-6 inches longer than a T1). The T4 has a very strong bottom end - enhanced by a better oil cooler and a real spin on oil filter. Weakest area is the valve seats - that can be welded when refurbishing them. Yup, parts are not as readily available and are more costly than a T1.
I favor an engine from a 914 (or 411/412) over an engine that was in a bus. The bus engine is lower compression (hence HP) right off - plus it has been struggling to push a heavy (2x a 914) square bread box down the road. Only advantage of the bus engine is that it has the needed 200mm flywheel/clutch setup (vice 914's 215mm), the heat exchangers are easily adapted, early ones had an ok dual solex carb setup with good distributer (vice one with FI contacts).
I favor an engine from a 914 (or 411/412) over an engine that was in a bus. The bus engine is lower compression (hence HP) right off - plus it has been struggling to push a heavy (2x a 914) square bread box down the road. Only advantage of the bus engine is that it has the needed 200mm flywheel/clutch setup (vice 914's 215mm), the heat exchangers are easily adapted, early ones had an ok dual solex carb setup with good distributer (vice one with FI contacts).
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wolfgang - interested in selling those exhaust pipes (right picture)?
I'm doing a T4 right now and am struggling with what to do with the exhaust.
I'm doing a T4 right now and am struggling with what to do with the exhaust.
Paul, Type 4 exhaust is critical, very critical and the most important part of the "bolt on" combination. I have several exhaust options, but none are cheap due to the development that has went into them and the quality of the pieces... People spend 5K on parts to increase induction, but are just plain dumb about exhaust, not wanting to spend even 10% of the cost of the engine on a proper exhaust system.... Just plain dumb!
After a decade of internet discussions there is a huge data base of info on the differences in the two engines, search!! Search here, the STF, the samba and over at my forums http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com
All that said, I still read the same misconceptions about these engines.. The biggest being that a TIV engine is grossly more expensive than a Type 1, thats just not the case when both engines are built to the same degree of quality.
The work we have been doing and the sheer volume of people doing the conversions has DROPPED prices over the past few years. A good example of this is the fact that most of my comprehensive engine kits are 4-500 dollars LESS than they were last year and most make 15-20% MORE power than the previous 2007 offerings..
IMHO, if you are not using a car for EVERYDAY, DAILY DRIVING a Type 4 is not doing it's job, so you may as well stick to a Type 1.... Everything we have worked to develop has been done for the person who wants to drive their car as a low maintenance, highly reliable, long living primary vehicle with more than double the stock HP.
If you like to support the Chinese govermnet, Type 1 parts will be the best choice for you... The Type 4 has not been invaded by the junk parts and we are doing everything we can to combat this from happening, creating another engine that can't be built worth a hoot due to inferior components.
I build a few Type 1 engines, on a case by case basis and I HATE the parts quality and the quality control work we have to do when building a decent engine worth our labor.
After a decade of internet discussions there is a huge data base of info on the differences in the two engines, search!! Search here, the STF, the samba and over at my forums http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com
All that said, I still read the same misconceptions about these engines.. The biggest being that a TIV engine is grossly more expensive than a Type 1, thats just not the case when both engines are built to the same degree of quality.
The work we have been doing and the sheer volume of people doing the conversions has DROPPED prices over the past few years. A good example of this is the fact that most of my comprehensive engine kits are 4-500 dollars LESS than they were last year and most make 15-20% MORE power than the previous 2007 offerings..
IMHO, if you are not using a car for EVERYDAY, DAILY DRIVING a Type 4 is not doing it's job, so you may as well stick to a Type 1.... Everything we have worked to develop has been done for the person who wants to drive their car as a low maintenance, highly reliable, long living primary vehicle with more than double the stock HP.
If you like to support the Chinese govermnet, Type 1 parts will be the best choice for you... The Type 4 has not been invaded by the junk parts and we are doing everything we can to combat this from happening, creating another engine that can't be built worth a hoot due to inferior components.
I build a few Type 1 engines, on a case by case basis and I HATE the parts quality and the quality control work we have to do when building a decent engine worth our labor.
Paintthebug,
The ad is as exact as it states. It was a project that I was trying to build a few years back. I shipped it to Jake and picked it up, brought it back to New York where is sat.
My ambitions was larger than my skills. :-) I noticed Jake is a member of his board, it is surely his work.
http://www.volksride.com/marketplace/index/posts/page226.php
-ptek
The ad is as exact as it states. It was a project that I was trying to build a few years back. I shipped it to Jake and picked it up, brought it back to New York where is sat.
My ambitions was larger than my skills. :-) I noticed Jake is a member of his board, it is surely his work.
http://www.volksride.com/marketplace/index/posts/page226.php
-ptek
I might be interested myself, Marc. I need an engine for my coupe project. I cited your ad because it looked good. $150 is a steal!
I **think** I remember doing that work... It was for a Sharpbuilt 911 kit, right??
That was a long time ago!
That was a long time ago!
I heard my name again . . . And stepping in to this thread is diving into a pool that is way over my head. But for the record, my engine is a T-I 2332, just about the limit for ccs in a Type I. It is a new build from GEMVW, via JPS Motorsports, supplied in my turn-key car. Big engine, big carbs, lots of torque 3000 to 4500 -- you can go to GEM VW website and see what they say for themselves. I do not know the first thing about Chinese vs. American, vs. German parts in this or any engine. I do know that my engine goes well. I am told I can buy parts for it readily and at good cost. I am not sure how my engine's performance, etc. is different from Cory's from the driver's side. You'll have to take Cory's word for that. His engine is very strong, and pulls extremely well over much of its rpm range. I have driven his car, and I like the scoot it can deliver at just about any condition. The biggest difference in the two cars is: the two cars, which is to say the bodies. The Hoopty is the stiffest roll cage chassis seen in any Speedster anywhere, and my car is a tube frame - VW pan hybrid. These are most defintely not the same animals -- see Cory's pictures. We have yet to go head to head down a straight stretch, although the idea of that is intriguing. We have had a couple of spirited follow-me-if-you-can runs through the country, and I believe we both had some great fun w/ that. . .
Peace out,
Kelly
Peace out,
Kelly
l Kelly is that the turbo engine . Like posteed AT C B Performace as I re call its over 300 HP
By the way.?? You need to look at the NEW Sterling Vw based Kit cars Frame. The car has its roots in the Bradlys and the Manta's .
Hopptie has some stiff compatition. comming in the not to distant future It is a full race type frame.
Thats, Sterling Sports Cars LLC I'd Love to see that rolled under a Glass 356 Coupe shell. and I.d say it would fit if to gut it like Hooptie
By the way.?? You need to look at the NEW Sterling Vw based Kit cars Frame. The car has its roots in the Bradlys and the Manta's .
Hopptie has some stiff compatition. comming in the not to distant future It is a full race type frame.
Thats, Sterling Sports Cars LLC I'd Love to see that rolled under a Glass 356 Coupe shell. and I.d say it would fit if to gut it like Hooptie
Barry: If asking about my engine, no turbo there, just ccs and carbs. I am close enough to killing myself w/ this car as it is -- a turbo might seal the deal.
Kelly - With that smile you sport while driving it - there must be a leak in your Nitrous Oxide tank. (kidding - know ya don't have one --- apparently its really in Cory's Hoopty from number of smiles it has generated).
For the record, I would LOVE a car as nice as Kelly's got. It's fantastic!
Unfortunately for me, I got on the elevator on the basement level with a lemon and had to make lemonade just to get to the first floor. I'll spend the next few years tinkering with little things, but I'll never get something that pretty out of it.
To kind of make up the difference between what other folks have in terms of fit and finish, I opted for torque and raw horsepower instead of a really well-worked Type I for highway driving. I think I've got a pretty happy medium -- for now.
We'll see how it comes along with a little upholstry work and some paint, but I'm going to stay with the Type IV for a powerplant. It's made me really happy with the car overall.
Unfortunately for me, I got on the elevator on the basement level with a lemon and had to make lemonade just to get to the first floor. I'll spend the next few years tinkering with little things, but I'll never get something that pretty out of it.
To kind of make up the difference between what other folks have in terms of fit and finish, I opted for torque and raw horsepower instead of a really well-worked Type I for highway driving. I think I've got a pretty happy medium -- for now.
We'll see how it comes along with a little upholstry work and some paint, but I'm going to stay with the Type IV for a powerplant. It's made me really happy with the car overall.
OK I think I've got it now: that thing that looks liek a fire extinguisher in the Hoopty is really a nitrous bottle. That explains a lot . . .
Notice that the hose goes to the driver's seat rather than the engine.
Watch that plumbing....He could be using methane....
Hmmmmmmmm...............
I remember a point on the "Tail of the Dragon" run when we were a car or two behind Cory, and Kathy said to me; "What's that funny smell?"
I wonder........
I remember a point on the "Tail of the Dragon" run when we were a car or two behind Cory, and Kathy said to me; "What's that funny smell?"
I wonder........
Jake,
Yes, and you tried to talk some sense into me about building my own engine. :-) I should have taken your word for it. :-) I'll leave it to the experts from this point forward.
-Ptek
Yes, and you tried to talk some sense into me about building my own engine. :-) I should have taken your word for it. :-) I'll leave it to the experts from this point forward.
-Ptek
Hindsight is 20/20
And people always think that I am just trying to sell them something...
Just not the case... Is it?
And people always think that I am just trying to sell them something...
Just not the case... Is it?
I got an email from John Steele who claims his latest 2332 type1 puts Type4s in the weeds... I laughed and i laughed some mo'
Then thought I'd post just fo mo giggles
Then thought I'd post just fo mo giggles
John Steele doesn't make any engines. He delivered my speedster with a 2367 type IV and it had a very restrictive Monza exhaust. It was qouted at 140 HP. I later measured rear wheel horsepower on a local dyno at 79 Hp. Wouldn't be hard for a 2332 Type I to top that!
Totally deflated, I embarked upon an improvement program. Since I made a few changes (valve sizes opened up to 44 and 40, BAS 4-1 merged exhaust header, Dynomax muffler, 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipe, velocity stacks, some Weber tuning), I've got a whole new car! Like Jake says - it's not peak power, it's the power in the everyday driving range that makes you smile.
Totally deflated, I embarked upon an improvement program. Since I made a few changes (valve sizes opened up to 44 and 40, BAS 4-1 merged exhaust header, Dynomax muffler, 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipe, velocity stacks, some Weber tuning), I've got a whole new car! Like Jake says - it's not peak power, it's the power in the everyday driving range that makes you smile.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of Velocity Stacks. Can they be added to any Carb.?
David: Did you dyno your car after the changes?
Velocity stacks direct and accelerate the air into the top of the carb, thus, producing more power. While the rule is often "the taller the better", this is governed by the height available within the engine compartment, flow characteristics of the cam AND the clearance to the inside top of the air cleaner. An air space of AT LEAST 1-3/8" is needed between the top of the "bell" and the inside of the air cleaner top for proper flow.
I would use a short velocity stack on a single carburetor (one carb for the entire engine, as on "stock" set-ups, or one dual-throat with a throat feeding each side) to prevent air-fuel vapor "Stand-off" above the venturiis, saturating the filter element and possibly causing a fire (not good). This is caused by multiple intake valves feeding off of a single manifold, thus, causing shock waves within the manifold which can puff air-fuel back up through the carb at certain speeds and power levels. This stuff then makes the inside of the filter element wet with fuel - again....not good)
As a very general rule (and this is heavily dependent on the displacement, cam and flow characteristics of the engine being modified) the taller the velocity stacks, the higher up in the RPM range they'll produce more power (that's why you see real tall stacks on drag race cars).
On our engines, the practical limit s often about 6" total height. Given the height restrictions within a Speedster engine compartment, we're usually limited to something under 3", which produces good flow in the mid-range, where we'll probably use it the most.
Theoretically, they could be added to any carb, depending on a way to mount them, height restrictions and cam/carb flow characteristics.
The only disadvantage I can think of is improper installation/use which could either choke the incoming airflow (if too close to the top of the air cleaner), or cause fuel stand-off. Both would be cured by shorter stacks.
Bear in mind that you have to have adequate flow through your engine to make these work properly. Running stacks on a pair of small Kadrons on a stock-displacement engine probably won't show much of a difference. Putting them on a pair of dual 40's or 44's on a 1915 or so engine should show a marked difference.
Hope this helps.
gn
I would use a short velocity stack on a single carburetor (one carb for the entire engine, as on "stock" set-ups, or one dual-throat with a throat feeding each side) to prevent air-fuel vapor "Stand-off" above the venturiis, saturating the filter element and possibly causing a fire (not good). This is caused by multiple intake valves feeding off of a single manifold, thus, causing shock waves within the manifold which can puff air-fuel back up through the carb at certain speeds and power levels. This stuff then makes the inside of the filter element wet with fuel - again....not good)
As a very general rule (and this is heavily dependent on the displacement, cam and flow characteristics of the engine being modified) the taller the velocity stacks, the higher up in the RPM range they'll produce more power (that's why you see real tall stacks on drag race cars).
On our engines, the practical limit s often about 6" total height. Given the height restrictions within a Speedster engine compartment, we're usually limited to something under 3", which produces good flow in the mid-range, where we'll probably use it the most.
Theoretically, they could be added to any carb, depending on a way to mount them, height restrictions and cam/carb flow characteristics.
The only disadvantage I can think of is improper installation/use which could either choke the incoming airflow (if too close to the top of the air cleaner), or cause fuel stand-off. Both would be cured by shorter stacks.
Bear in mind that you have to have adequate flow through your engine to make these work properly. Running stacks on a pair of small Kadrons on a stock-displacement engine probably won't show much of a difference. Putting them on a pair of dual 40's or 44's on a 1915 or so engine should show a marked difference.
Hope this helps.
gn
You can get short stacks that fit inside the stock air cleaner you already have. You REALLY don't want to skip the air cleaner part. You could wind up burning bugs that way; not good for the old carbs.
I installed those (EMPI's for the Kadrons, which I imagine is what you have)before switching to dual 40 Dells altogether. You can get them anywhere and they are a friction fit when installing them inside the air cleaners you already have. They include screws to install them to the carb bodies when not using air cleaners.
Do you think there will be any performance increase with my VS 1915cc with Dual Kadrons? Or should I save the money for a total overhaul wich I may due in the future. If I do it, I would have them installed by a professional.
Marty
Marty
"I got an email from John Steele who claims his latest 2332 type1 puts Type4s in the weeds... I laughed and i laughed some mo'
Then thought I'd post just fo mo giggles"
I dare him to email me that. I'll have to shoot him back a reply with a 270HP engine that runs on pump gas and still gets 24 MPG without boost or nitrous....
As for velocity stacks, bigger isn't better! I have seen as much as 18HP gained and lost with a stack variance of 4.5" in a comparative test.... Velocity stack choices are impacted by intake manifold length, exhaust design, venturi sizing and the intended RPM range/ camshaft profile.
Generally I have found the 1-7/8" stacks that come with Weber and Dell carbs to work the best and provide the most usable power on most engines...
the profile of the stack is important, some stacks are nothing more than added runner length, not doing much to manipulate the air at all.
I plan a volume of my video series to focus on tuning and this will include stack height and profile..
Stack design is the kjey and a significant amount of usable power depends on their optimization.
Then thought I'd post just fo mo giggles"
I dare him to email me that. I'll have to shoot him back a reply with a 270HP engine that runs on pump gas and still gets 24 MPG without boost or nitrous....
As for velocity stacks, bigger isn't better! I have seen as much as 18HP gained and lost with a stack variance of 4.5" in a comparative test.... Velocity stack choices are impacted by intake manifold length, exhaust design, venturi sizing and the intended RPM range/ camshaft profile.
Generally I have found the 1-7/8" stacks that come with Weber and Dell carbs to work the best and provide the most usable power on most engines...
the profile of the stack is important, some stacks are nothing more than added runner length, not doing much to manipulate the air at all.
I plan a volume of my video series to focus on tuning and this will include stack height and profile..
Stack design is the kjey and a significant amount of usable power depends on their optimization.
Marty:
If your carbs have no stacks now, then I would try the longest you can get, still fitting within the 1-3/8"+ from the inside of the top cover. You should see a noticeable improvement, and mileage 'may' increase a little, too, simply because the overall flow will be more efficient.
Besides....they don't cost a lot to begin with, so it's a cheap experiment.
gn
If your carbs have no stacks now, then I would try the longest you can get, still fitting within the 1-3/8"+ from the inside of the top cover. You should see a noticeable improvement, and mileage 'may' increase a little, too, simply because the overall flow will be more efficient.
Besides....they don't cost a lot to begin with, so it's a cheap experiment.
gn
Gordon,
How about these? Scroll mid-way down the page.
http://www.vwheritage.com/ssp/Engine-Parts%5CAir-Filters-Stacks%5C?templateID=ssp
Marty
How about these? Scroll mid-way down the page.
http://www.vwheritage.com/ssp/Engine-Parts%5CAir-Filters-Stacks%5C?templateID=ssp
Marty
Here is how I got the standard velocity stacks to fit inside the air cleaner and still maintain about 1 1/2 inches inside clearance to the top of the air cleaner. Note the fabricated oval ring I added at the air cleaner base. It raises the air cleaner the requisite amount to provide clearance for the stacks. Please note that I had to cut out most of the inner panel from the right side deck lid to clear the air cleaner on that side only (less than 1/8 inch clearance to outer panel).
Oh yeah - these are Weber 44s on a type IV.
I may have one advantage over some of you guys and gals - I don't give a $hit about being authentic - this is MY hot rod.
Oh yeah - these are Weber 44s on a type IV.
I may have one advantage over some of you guys and gals - I don't give a $hit about being authentic - this is MY hot rod.
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Marty:
Those should work, but if you're running Kadrons then I might look at www.lowbudget.com to see if he has any. Might as well feed the Dollar than the pound and save a $$$ to boot. Those from England look to be 2-3 times as expensive as they aught to be. Hunt around stateside and see what turns up. Maybe even CB?
gn
Those should work, but if you're running Kadrons then I might look at www.lowbudget.com to see if he has any. Might as well feed the Dollar than the pound and save a $$$ to boot. Those from England look to be 2-3 times as expensive as they aught to be. Hunt around stateside and see what turns up. Maybe even CB?
gn
Hoo-RAH, David! Good for you!
Now, if we could get the rest of these guys to join the Outlaw revolution ... ;)
Now, if we could get the rest of these guys to join the Outlaw revolution ... ;)
Those are the ones Marty; stick with those and your existing filters; here's a better link for you to get them here and cheaper ($23.70 for a pair isn't bad at all):
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26%2D129%2D210
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26%2D129%2D210
Thanks Ricardo,
Does the carb come off for this install? or is it an easy install.
Marty
Does the carb come off for this install? or is it an easy install.
Marty