how much is a type IV 1.8L engine worth used, no diZzy that was running 2 years ago
are the guts worth much?
How much would it be to rebuild?
how much is a type IV 1.8L engine worth used, no diZzy that was running 2 years ago
are the guts worth much?
How much would it be to rebuild?
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I'd keep searching for a 2 liter rather than settling for 1.8
What differences outside of size
this engine was in a 914 or vw
The blocks are all the same - the 2L has a different crank (longer throw), rods, pistons and heads. The 1.8L was detuned (76 hp) from the 1.7L (80 hp) but that can be "fixed". If you don't know mileage and condition of guts - I'd say $300-400 (assuming all other parts there like Alt and flywheel). I have a '75 with dual 34 Solex carbs and a .009 dist (worth $450?). I also have a '74 2L (95 hp) with dual Holley Webers (worth $650?). All 914's in US had FI which is great if it works (special distributer required with FI points) but not conducive to engine performance mods and costly to fix. (I have over optimistic visions but little energy).
The case and bottom end is strong so unless it pushed a heavy bus around it is probably ok - the cases don't get pounded out like T1s. It can be put in a Speedster in the flat OEM pancake cooling config - saving $1k vs converting to upright (albeit there is a Joe Cali DIY solution). New Pistons and carb'd cam would be ~$800. Heads are often problematic as they can crack and drop seats. So could be $400 to service up to $1000. This is from memory and past reading. So add bearings (4x $ T1) and gaskets - $400. The exhaust is costly item - $1200 or so. I have bus heat exchangers (or 411/412) I was going to us to get heat - and then would add extractor muffler. If lucky with core I think you could do stockish rebuild for $1k - and get 100-120 hp.
Not mine but a flat engine in Speedster -
Get the serial # - you probably don't want one that did 120k miles in a bread box heavy bus. (You need a bus flywheel to mate to T1 trans - 914 won't work. If you do upright conversion the Alt isn't used).
Rich D in WI had a rare Raby twin plug T4 in his Beck - Now PepeSpeed has it in FL. I'm guessing 200 hp? Probably $25k+ to build now though.
https://www.speedsterowners.com...nsin-engine-progress
Ser EC012330
thanks for the info
Good not a bus engine - looks like a '74 low compression 914 engine - EC0012330?
93 mm bore, 66 mm crank (vs 71 mm for 2.)) and 7.3:1 CR (vs 8.2:1 for 1.7 and 7.6:1 for 2L)
1974 | 914-1.8 | 73 @ 4800 | 76 @ 4800 | 474 29 00001- 474 29 21379 | EC 0000001- EC 0037551 | 914/12 | HA O1 08 3- HA 31 12 2 |
I got a 2 liter with the car for 500.00. I paid a 1,000 for a two liter with fresh heads, porsche style shroud and alternator. Keep in mine these heads(2.0, 1.8,1.7) are known to crack at exhaust studs and spark plug holes.
Unless I take all the spark plugs out how would you know if there is a crack at the exhaust studs out side of the obvious.
The cracks start at the exhaust port stud area. Difficult to see unless heads are cleaned. Spark plug area is usually in the combustion chamber. Keep in mind your looking some 25-30 year old parts. I was just trying to give you the big picture. Type 4 cost more to replace than a type 1 where one can shop between scat and cb for heads. I have a 76 912 we have been building. The short block has been together for several months because customers original heads were junk, the second set needed to much welding and now the third set looks promising. It's just a matter how picky your are about parts and building a motor to last.
If they were really bad, a compression or leak down test might show cracks. Bad thing is if cracked around valves, occasionally, the valve seats can drop and really mess up that cylinder. (T1 VWs had same issue with #3 exhaust valve breaking off). Some drive for years/thousand of miles even with cracks. Like Anthony said many can be welded and repaired - usually you have to send them off to a T4 expert - not a local general machine shop.
Wolfie- that sh*t'll buff out...
Is anyone running a stock Porsche 914 in there speedster? I just bought a 1.7L that has been set up by Tangerine Racing (TR) of Ct. Motor is equipped with dual Weber's! I prefer not to spend the $$ for a Raby conversion kit at this time, but, am leaning towards the exhaust system presently mfd by TR which can be ordered with a single oval outlet. In a PM with Wolfgang, he thought that maybe someone has done this installation, or, knows of someone who has. I have a CMC speedster!
Thanks,
Tom
The picture I posted I saved from years ago - so it does fit in pancake format and appears easier to work on than an upright version. Maybe cut out behind license plate for extra air intake.
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