Understanding electrics

This seems really light to me. I'd step up at least one size from the chart.

I think you need to either

1. upsize your wire to 10 gauge, or

2. downsize your fuse to 7 amps and

3. get ye a new solenoid that won't blow 10-amp fuses

 

http://www.bdfuses.com/fusesnwires.php

 

I wonder if you should run that on a separate circuit or on a separate relay that can handle the load with an appropriate wire guage to the amperage that is being drawn by that plunger... If your worried I would do that. 

Thanks for that, Lads. My kit was incomplete but now online research says that the kit should have come with a 35 amp fuse. Mine works with a 30 so I guess I'll stick with what I have and move on with just upgrading the fuse to 35.

 

I took some good advice from Jack Crosby and installed a manual cable release too. Thanks Jack !

David,  Deffinately upgrade your wire size if you stay with the 30/35 amp fuses.  The "Chart" seems awfully generous with wire capacity ratings....  I would have used 14g a.  Just a thought 

We'll go to 14 awg then, thanks Leon. No big deal to change.

 

I'd still be a little concerned with that 16 gauge wire size with a potential 30 amp load. Your saving grace is the short time the solenoid is active.

 

I'd measure the holding current on that solenoid, that is the current it uses when it is on constantly. A solenoid is going to have an initial high current spike but then settle to a lower current value. Size the fuse 30% above the holding current, but use a slow-blow (aka, time-delay) fuse. Slow-blow fuses are intended for such use where they must withstand an initial high current spike. For example, Littelfuse MAXI fuses are a slow-blow automotive blade type.

 

Then size your wiring equal or above the fuse rating you use.

Me too. I'd go up one size from 10a on up.

David,

Let me begin by saying I am not an Elec. Engineer or anything ralated to the descipline.

Just common sense to me:  if the solenoid you bought has wire leads that are a given awg size say 18 awg(or perhaps the Amperes rating is on the body of the unit) then you should only need to size your wire run and fuse to match same (keeping in mind that over distances amp ratings go down; I don't think your 6' run would matter too much in this case).  If it was blowing your fuse at the lower Amp fuse, maybe you have a short circuit or something else to consider?

The attached photo of the actutor I bought to do the same with my lid (on future car now) has wire leads that are 18 awg.  Don't see how the circuit in my case would draw 30 Amps.

Perhaps you can use a Mini Clamp-On Amp Meter close to the solenoid leads coming out of it and see what the draw measures?

Good luck with your resolution.

Tom L.

Sorry forgot attachment.

A screw actuator like that is going to have a good deal less (like 3 or 4 amps at full load) current draw than the solenoid David has.

Wow...just tried to measure the draw of the of the solenoid when held closed by continuous pressure on the momentary switch and within 5 seconds blew the switch completely. The fuse did not blow. The switch came with the kit but I cannot be sure the switch was intended for that solenoid as it was an opened box with no paperwork. I'm starting to think that this solenoid likes to be a very momentary thing.

 

New switch goes in tomorrow and move on.

I still wonder if a relay should not be used... then you can use a switch to activate the relay... just a thought.

 

Forty pound pull?

 

Methinks the tail is wagging the dog here.

 

If the thing blows a 10 amp fuse, it's using more than 120 watts - probably way more. If that latch ever jams, you might rip it right out of the fiberglass. And you'll need one monster switch with contacts rated over 20 amps (twice the expected load is a typical safety factor). A load like that should probably be controlled with a relay.

 

A solenoid better suited to the job would also require much lighter wiring and switching.

 

Did Tim Allen put that in for you?

 

 

 

You're likely right, Mitch. Thanks for the kind words of wisdom. Red Green showed me how to do it.

       
       

Sorry to hear that. That switch would have only worked to trigger a relay. It obviously wasn't rated for a direct feed. Was it a rubber-sealed button about 1" in diameter like what's normally in the Spal kits? Spal shows their emergency button wired for direct feed so I'd be really surprised and disappointed if it wasn't rated for such use.

No, Justin the switch you described is not what came in the box with the Spal solenoid. But I may have just installed a BWD switch like you describe. UN42000...a big mother and rated at 60 amps.

 

Taking a step from what Mitch said about the solenoid itself possibly tearing out a jammed latch from the mount, I installed a spring to lighten the pull force to the latch. I realize the contraption is more or less made up of mismatched parts but we don't have ready access to odd parts here and I'm reticent to order parts online when I don't know if they'll work anyway and have to leave them sitting on the shelf.

 

This guy taught me all I know so far....

Late shot of Dr. Zachary Smith?

 

(he may still be out there, after all!)