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I went out to take a little cruise this morning to check out the performance of a jet change in my 44 Webers. I didn't make it out of my driveway ! While it was idling to warm up i pushed it out of my garage and out to the front of my driveway. All the way out , I discovered, that I had a big trail of engine oil. i shut it off and watched. it wasn't from all the oil hoses that go all over the place to plumb in the cooler or the filter. It was from the doghouse oil cooler ! I suspected that i had blown out one of the "dounut' grommets between this cooler and the crankcase. What a pain in the a-s to remove everything to get to this mess! I think it would have been easier to remove the entire engine but after all the pains I took to make sure the engine compartment was sealed up to prevent any air from entering other than through the Hibachi Grill I thought it would be easier. Now, I think it's 50/50.....live and learn!.... The problem was this. The oil cooler was an aftermarket unit and when I installed it i noticed that it was not perpendicular to the crankcase. This would make the fan shroud sit cockeyed (leaning Backwards in this case) and not allow the alternator to mount properly so that the fan belt was not aligned between the Alt. and the crank pulley. Since I believe that proper alignment is required here to insure that the fan-belt stays on at 6000rpm or so, I shimmed (with washers) the oil cooler back to a vertical (perpendicular) position. What this did was reduce the mechanical "squeeze" of those two silicone donuts between the crankcase and the oil cooler....FAILURE RIGHT THERE !!

It happened after 300 miles into my break-in period of 500 miles.....What a friggen mess!!!!  Upward and onward.....

This is just info so...hopefully...you don't try to do the same thing.

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For starters, the donuts these days have a higher failure rate, as they're not as well made as they used to be, and then not to be clamped down evenly...

Can the adapter be machined so the cooler sits perpendicular to the flange on the case? If not, time to find either an original VW unit or (failing option 1) another aftermarket piece that is machined properly. And once you've got that problem licked, I've heard of people using gasket sealer on the flat parts around the donuts, so even if it fails, the area around it stays sealed.

 

And, am I getting this right; you're trying to rectify this with the engine still in the car?

One thing I dislike about dual carbs is they have to be taken off to take out the engine and it's even more of a pain with fuel injection.

It was so easy taking the engine out of my old 1967 Baja.  I didn't have to take anything off, including the dual carbs.

 

Maybe I should have left my IM like this 

 

100_2185

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Here's an update on this oil cooler problem. When i took the fan shroud off i noticed that a lot of oil was in the cooling fins, all the way to the top of the cooler. I made an aluminum plate to attach to the oil cooler and rigged up an air pressure regulator, set it at 20 psi and dipped the cooler in a bucket of water. Voila ! A giant leak from what appears to be at the top of the oil cooler in the fin area. So my "shim" job held but the cooler was defective (probably why it was crooked in the first place) so it's off to argue warranty with the vendor.

Ron...I found that I don't need to take the carburetors off completely. Just the top air horn section with the fuel inlet/filter in it. This gives me 1/2 inch clearance to play with.  (82mm stroker) But that means that all the throttle linkage and fuel hoses need to come off. Yup it's a pain !........Bruce

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