Hey All
I am loving our beck speedster. However with 90hp it's seem pretty slow. For future plans I would like to get some recommendations on upgrades I could make to get more out of the 1915cc. I known cb performance sells builder kits that is basically a whole new engine for $4000 plus the cost of 44mm carbs $800. That kit gets you to 120 hp. A turnkey engine would be $6000. What can I do to the existing engine that wold give it some meaningful gains for say $2500?
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Does it have Kadrons or Webers? I'm guessing it has stock dual port heads, a mild (Engle W110 or something similar) cam, stock (1.1:1) rockers and I don't know what for exhaust. Some dual Webers, take off the heads and take them to someone local for some porting work and a proper 3 angle valve job (if it doesn't have it already), figure out what compression the engine is running as you may be able to increase it slightly (the head guy will be able to help you with this), some 1.25 rockers and hd aluminum pushrods (if the ramps on the cam will allow higher ratio rockers) and an exhaust that will support 110-120 hp would be a start. The best thing to do would be to add a longer stroke crankshaft, but that's a whole other can o' worms...Al
I will refrain from any technical contribution here, as I would have very little of use to offer, other than to get more cc's. Many here will have considerable info, knowledge, experience to be brought to bear here. For me, I'm going for a beer and some popcorn and a comfy chair, because this is going to be interesting . . .
How tight are you going to wind this engine up to???? If you have a "Mexicrate" 1915cc unit, it will have a non counterweighted crankshaft.... This isn't a bad thing until you start pushing the tach needle over 4500 rpm on a "regular" basis....
Find out what you have befor you make any BIG ($$$$) decisions.....
Remember, reliable speed costs money.....How fast can you afford to go????
Leon, that is a great line. " how fast can you afford to go" should be our new tag line:-)
Leon
I looked under the car, and it appears the block was made in Brazil. It does have Weber Carbs. I can't read the size. But they look like the 6399 Weber ICT Carburetor 34mm on CBP website.
Marty..... I stole that line from a cartoon character that used to haunt Hot Rod Magazine...(Stroker McGurk).... He was loaded with such "Wisdom".....
Bob.... If you have single throat carbs, it may be a "Mexicrate" engine.... Who built the car???? Vintage???? or was it someone's project car..... You won't know for sure until you establish what you have...... You might take the chasis number and ask Vintage if they built the car...... If they did, it most likely is a "Mexicrate"....
El Frazoo posted:I will refrain from any technical contribution here, as I would have very little of use to offer, other than to get more cc's. Many here will have considerable info, knowledge, experience to be brought to bear here. For me, I'm going for a beer and some popcorn and a comfy chair, because this is going to be interesting . . .
You slacker, you!
Another McGurkism......(for ALB and other go fast types).....
"If you build it and it don't GO, Stroke it.... If it still don't go, put a blower on it....
If it still don't go, CHROME IT....
It is beck that was built by Dukes Garage in CO. I emailed the yesterday to get the builds sheet. I provided the chassis number. They emailed back answer said they don't have records by chassis number. So I sent him the name of the person for whom it was built. I haven't heard back yet.
Bobby D posted:It is beck that was built by Dukes Garage in CO. I emailed the yesterday to get the builds sheet. I provided the chassis number. They emailed back answer said they don't have records by chassis number. So I sent him the name of the person for whom it was built. I haven't heard back yet.
That's a good start Bobby. Similar to what Leon said, it's hard to give suggestions without knowing what you have in there in the first place. Not that I can give you any suggestions anyway since I'm technologically challenged when it comes to engine stuff. I will be watching closely though because I most likely have what you have a putting a little more giddy-up in my Speedster sounds like a good thing.
It is beck that was built by Dukes Garage in CO. I emailed the yesterday to get the builds sheet. I provided the chassis number. They emailed back answer said they don't have records by chassis number. So I sent him the name of the person for whom it was built. I haven't heard back yet.
Sell the used long block and build a combo that pleases the palate and foot.
2056 or larger. All else need not apply. I wish I had gone type IV.
I'll give my usual "not all engines of a given size are created equal" comment. When I bought my Beck they had two basic engines on offer; a 90hp 1915 and a 125hp 1915. I was told that the 90 was a nice, basic motor that could not be easily upgraded but the 125 was built to take some additional souping up if desired. Both were from CB Performance. The moral of the story is that you don't necessarily have to go bigger to go better. I went with the 125 and, although not the fastest, I've never felt my car is under-powered. Is there any way that you can find out who built your motor?
Lane
It is cb performance engine. You are hitting on exactly what I want to understand. What is the difference between a cb performance 1915 super 90 and 1915 125hp option? Is it different heads and carb? My car has 34mm carbs. I seen other 1915 125hp cars with the 44mm.
LeonChupp posted:How tight are you going to wind this engine up to???? If you have a "Mexicrate" 1915cc unit, it will have a non counterweighted crankshaft.... This isn't a bad thing until you start pushing the tach needle over 4500 rpm on a "regular" basis....
Find out what you have befor you make any BIG ($$$$) decisions.....
Remember, reliable speed costs money.....How fast can you afford to go????
For the guy who's going to drive it around and rev it up once in a while (remember, we're working with what we have here, are on a budget and don't have the luxury of a new build from scratch), replacing the dual 1 barrels (ICT's) with 40 mm dual 2 barrels (IDF's or HPMX's), porting the stock valve heads, upping the compression a tad, adding ratio rockers (and solid shafts if it doesn't have them already) and maybe upgrading the exhaust isn't going to drastically shorten engine life unless Bobby constantly drives the nuts off it from the moment he starts it to when he shuts it off (and even then it's surprising how long it will go). Yeah, a counterweighted crankshaft would be nice for maximum life, but given the fact that these are fairweather toys and probably won't get driven more than about 5,000 miles a year (tops), it will be 5 or 10 years (or longer) before the damage a stock crank can do will be evident. Would I change the cam and put big valve heads on it so it makes power another thousand rpm (or more) higher with a stock crank? No, as that would be asking for trouble, but for this it will be fine. I'm not saying Leon's point isn't valid, but it's what Bobby has, he's not ready to do a full rebuild and these engines are amazingly resilient. Unless it's bagged already it will take it and be a very fun engine.
Bobby- If it has ICT's, they are almost at their limit. They are 1 barrel carburetors with smaller throttle plates and venturis, and while suitable for the engine in it's present configuration, will need to be replaced for any significant hp increase.
Yes, I know we need to know exactly what's in this engine before really doing anything, but given it's "Super 90" 1915, we can make some basic assumptions- the 2 most important which are it probably has stock dual port heads and a 5,000 or 5500 cam. We can't do anything about the cam without splitting the case, but some porting work, ratio rockers (don't forget the hd aluminum pushrods to keep valve train weight down), more compression and dual 2 barrels will be a nice little extra kick in the pants.
Bobby, if it's a CB Performance, it probably wouldn't hurt to contact Pat Downs at CB directly. He'll likely remember what he was putting in those engines for Beck at the time and have some ideas for upgrade paths, depending on what your budget is.
Bobby D posted:Lane
It is cb performance engine. You are hitting on exactly what I want to understand. What is the difference between a cb performance 1915 super 90 and 1915 125hp option? Is it different heads and carb? My car has 34mm carbs. I seen other 1915 125hp cars with the 44mm.
The performance differences, Bobby, are the camshaft, heads, carburetors, compression and exhaust. The "Super 90" (a Porsche 356 engine designation) will have a cam that revs 5,000 or 5500rpm, stock dual port heads, small 1 barrel carburetors, and a slightly better than stock exhaust. The CB parts list for a 125hp 1915 has a higher valve lift (to take advantage of the better breathing of the heads), fast ramp camshaft with a little more duration that will allow the engine to rev to between 6 and 6500rpm, big valve heads, 44mm Weber carburetors (40mm is big enough, so why they spec the 44's I know not), a little more compression and 1 1/2" merged exhaust.
.......and the madness begins. 
Thanks guys, that is the kind of feed back I was seeking. I think my long term goal would be to get a CB Performance engine builders choice kit like this one http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1184.htm. But in mean time what would happen if I put this 44 Weber IDF setup with these heads:
http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6431.htm
http://www.cbperformance.com/p...ct-p/cncsuperpro.htm
Hey Bobby, I thought the car was for your wife?
It is my wife's. She has a heavy foot.
She drives my vette so I assume I can also drive her speedster.
Bobby - Your Speedster engine quest is a slippery slope. 
One upgrade will lead to another and then another, then another. In this performance quest the speed-demon voice in your head will ALWAYS be saying "...if I only could go a bit faster..."
You already have a go-fast car. When you get those speed demon urges, get in the Vette and let 'er rip.
When you get in the Speedster, which is apparently running fine, enjoy the scenery and smell the roses. Enjoy the extra bit of coin in your pocket and time NOT spent trouble-shooting which of your performance enhancements is not performing properly or up to expectation.
...and let's not mention the 5-speed, okay?
Musbjim
good advise. I put a procharger on my vette, which then lead to a better clutch, which then lead to a bent driveshaft.
It's only time and money. .... And we all eventually run out of both.
I think the Doctor had the best advice...You only live once and these toys should be what we want them to be!
A dependable 16-1900ish is nice but a 2.0 and up is so much fun in these cars!
Bobby,
As you're learning, these replicas are not one-size-fits-all. We are all very different owners with very different expectations. There is only one ringmaster for your circus: you. The rest of us are just the clowns in the peanut gallery. Enjoy the ride, and there will always be someone to advise you on how to spend the family fortune.
I would recommend checking with Carey Hines at Special Edition. He can probably describe the engine differences as well. Connect with Pat and Carey and you WILL get your question answered.
The Superpro heads, with their 42 or 44 x37mm valves and huge intake volume are more for a 22 or 2300 cc engine that revs to 6500 or 7,000rpm, Bobby; on your 1915 the bottom end/lower midrange will be really soft (not a lot of power) as airspeed in the intake manifolds into the heads isn't fast enough to keep the fuel in full suspension, the engine will just start to come alive as the rev's climb and then the cam won't let the engine rev any higher. I wouldn't even use a set of Panchitos, as some ported stock valve (35x32) heads will make the best you have.
Properly ported stock valve heads are capable of 120-125 hp (depending on who you talk to), and in a smaller (sub 2 liter) engine will keep intake airspeed up at lower revs, and that will turn into better lower end power/driveability with better mileage (meaning the engine is more efficient) as a result. To effectively use any more than ported stock heads will require a cam change to get the best out of the "combo".
Yoda out (for now, but back you know I will be!)
OK guys
Let me ask another question. We are having trouble getting the shifter into reverse. We start in neutral , push the shifter down then pull to left and down. It pops backup or we end up in 2nd. It usually take four or five time using a lot force to get it in. Any ideas? Does it need adjustment or are we doing something wrong? The car supposedly only has 3000 miles, so it shouldn'the be a wear issue.
MusbJim posted:Bobby - Your Speedster engine quest is a slippery slope.
Jim, you say this like it's a bad thing...
Bobby D.... Try loosening the two 13mm head bolts at the shifter and move the plate to get neutral centered first tighten and try it then try a bit left then right , up and down to adjust . Absolutely what ALB said. My preferred motor is a 1915. With these specs it runs at normal temps & no external oil cooler is needed. Ported heads. Engel 110 cam, swivel feet rockers w/ shims if needed on decent shafts, Baby Webers, balanced crankshaft - rods & flywheel (as a unit) Full flow case for external oil filter, stock flywheel, German gland nut and a Kennedy 1700 clutch set, electronic ignition, breather box routed from valves covers & case and a decent flow exhaust. You don't have to go overboard to get decent power and reliability. This motor is reasonable to build of purchase outright, performs well off the line and at highway cruising and gets decent gas mpg like anyone almost cares :~)
Bobby;
I have an Empi D, for now.
From neutral I pull up, slide to the left and pull back.
The empi is not a bad shifter, it's one of their better products.
Thanks Tom
I will try to adjust it tomorrow and let you know it went. You guys are great. Thanks
Regarding your shifter, Alan is correct in that your starting point will be to try an adjustment (same procedure as a Beetle) The aftermarket stock replacement shifters are such crap these days I would not be surprised if your reverse gate or the ring that rides on your reverse gate has already worn a flat spot. Once it does this, you'll accidentally start touching R when trying to shift to 2nd, and then people adjust away from R to eliminate the R/2 grind, however you now don't have enough rotation to easily get into R. IF that is the case you can get a new stock replacement shifter for $25, but you;ll be in the same boat in a few years. I personally recommend a Vintage Speed shifter and be done with it.
Something else to check would be for play/slop in the cage at the shifter nosecone. They have a thin crush bolt that we usually drill out and replace with a 10mm bolt (or 12mm depending on brand). This modification (and new cage/coupler bushings if needed) will make shifting more precise also.
As for your engine upgrade desires, the guys above are correct. The 90hp version is built very different from the 120hp version. Pat (engine builder at CB) MAY have some ideas, but I suspect that your internals are just about maxed out for that particular mill...
