A good German aftermarket shifter like a CSP makes the driving experience soooo much better. 
Hey Tom
Thanks for link on the shifter adjustment. Took 10 minutes and now working great.
This site is great! Lots of experience, shared by great people!
Glad you got your shifter adjusted, BobbyD!
Hey Guys
I finally spoke to some at Dukes Garage. They provided me with all the invoices from the original build. Looks like the total cost was right around $42,000. They did confirm the engine was a CB Performance 1915cc super 90. I then did some searching on the internet and found a BECK PDF spec sheet of the CB 90hp motors they put in their cars. See the attached for details.
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If your engine is what's spec'd on the file you just posted- it's seriously undercarbed (some 40mm IDF's or Dellortos would suit it way better), the "competition" 40x35 heads could be decent heads that are capable of making way more horsepower (in which case the engine will respond really well to more intake) or stock ports with bigger valves and at close to their maximum already (which is what I'm guessing they are). The camshaft (CB2246) is capable of taking the engine to 6500 (or a little higher) but the heads (if they're stock ports), ict's and probably the exhaust will only go to 5,000-5500rpm, so things are a little mismatched.
The IDF's (or Del's, or HPMX's), porting that matches the valve sizes, 1 1/2" sidewinder and a slight raise in compression (9:1) would match the camshaft's characteristics much better, probably making 130-135 horsepower. The only caveat is that this will come at the expense of higher rpm's and won't have a ton of torque down low.
A little more expensive (but a real blast! 
)- do the carbs (maybe even going to 44's), porting, exhaust and compression, detune the cam with a CB2243 (or anything similar that revs to about 6,000rpm) AND increase the displacement with a 74 (2054cc's), 76 (2109) or 78mm (2165) crankshaft. The thing will make 140-150 or so hp with sh*tloads of torque through the bottom end and lower midrange. This is the type of engine that makes a Speedster truly fun to drive! Al
Sorry Tebs- 1 over. I'm tryin'...
You'd be spending a couple grand won't you?
The above attached sheet is from a series of 1915cc engines that Jake Raby built for us. Each motor is individually serialized at the base of the alternator stand and has a matching order/build sheet. IF you have one of these RAT numbers, then the above specs should be accurate. The number will read RATYYYYXXX where the RAT is Raby Aircooled Technology, YYYY is the year of build and XXX is the serial number.
If your motor is a CB 90hp motor then those specs will not be accurate. I do have a general build sheet from Pat on these motors, with all the CB part numbers. However, that particular CB build sheet is over 10 years old and specs changed as parts availability changed, but the "generic" sheet was never updated.
The major differences I see are that the CB sheet shows;
044 spec round port heads, CB#1100 crank, CB#1628 chromoly push rods, CB#1640 "super stock" rockers, reman SCAT lifters, stock rod bearings and main bearings, CB#1849 racing cam bearings, CB#1258 rods, CB#1303 flywheel, and the cam specs show CB#22?? (Pat would make minor cam changed based on client specifics)
Hey chines
Could you send me that cb build sheet? I have emailed Pat at cb performance but have not heard back yet. Their website says it may take up to a week for a response.
PM me your email address
Also, will your transaxle support a higher horse power engine?
Just a thought from the peanut gallery. Good luck with the madness.
Hey chines
Could you send me that cb build sheet? I have emailed Pat at cb performance but have not heard back yet. Their website says it may take up to a week for a response.
That's a great question, Al. While a properly prepped and beefed trans is preferred, a stock trans will stand up to an engine like this for a long time if driven properly. It only takes a couple of forgetful moments to turn a stock trans into porridge, though.
Note- Written by a drunken bum on a boys dune buggy weekend. To be honest, I don't really know when Yoda will be back..
e-mail sent.
Most 90hp builds have a stock gearbox with either a 4.12 or a 3.88 R&P. SOME would upgrade to the pro-street for a 90hp, but we do not require it until you get over 100hp.
The easiest way to tell is to look at your driver's side plate. If it is stamped steel you have a stocker, if it is billet aluminum you have at least a pro-street.