Valve Adj. Question

My first attempt at adjusting my Speedy's valves has me scratching my head... I can get the exhaust valves adjusted with just minor turns on the valve. But when I check the clearance (.006) on the intake valve, it seems very tight, and even after a couple full turns on the valve, the feeler gauge won't slide in between the rocker and the valve. This is happening on all four cylinders. Any suggestions??

Thanks,

Mark

Sometimes when you tighten the nut, the adjuster screw tightens a touch with it. Back it off a quarter or an eight turn too much and then tighten it down. You want it to be very close. Don't expect perfect till you done it for a while. Lighten up bro!

Hi Mark
I'd suggest that you hit the "Knowledge" tab to review article #206. And, maybe even print it out for reference use in the "shop".
Good Luck!

Thanks for the quick replies. I went back out and double checked my valve placement, and that was the problem. I had the valves in the wrong position. I figured it out and readjusted and viola! It's amazing how the engine sounds so much better when the valves are adjusted properly!

Thanks again,

Mark

Ain't 50 year old technology wonderful? It harkens back to the days when a 'tuneup' meant you could actually feel the difference under your right foot! We don' need no steen kin' cum poot ors!

David said, "We don' need no steen kin' cum poot ors!"
As my man Vince would say, "cum poot or this."
com poot or driven Hoss

Mark when you get real good at this, (a few dozen adjustments with a feeler gauge) you'll know that a "click" is the correct adjustment and a "clack" is too loose:)

The first best rule is to start with a cold engine early in the morning.

Don't ask me why But it always does better for me, when I adjust them cold. ON A UN RUN ENGINE.

Slide in your feeler gauge an snug the screw gently. then back it off 1/8 turn and lock it down.

They useally snug in about 1/8 when you lock um down. Then click it a time or to and re incert the feeler to check it.

Repeat if your not pleased. take your time you will get the feel of it. as you do them all.

And this is no time for a beer Beer And Tooling dont mix.

Uh, Barry, MGM: What is the point of being a shade tree mechanic, w/ an old 1952 'fridge in the garage, if you can't have a cool one now and then? Jeeze, Louise! This ain't rocket science . . .

Alan: Click and clack. That is very good. It has been so long since I have been on my back running a wrench, screw driver and feeler gage all at the same time. Wonder if I'll remember how? Can't wait to find out. Probably like ridin' a bicycle: once you learn, you can't unlearn it.

I guess we should have said a 'stone-cold' engine. The valve adjustment is designed to be performed on a cold valvetrain, allowing for tolerances the engine heats up and expands. That's one of the reasons some people ajust the intake a little tighter than the exhaust. The exhaust valves heat more and like a little more room.

You are welcome to do anything you wish. But I just don't. not anymore.

I dont lay on my back I may not be able to get up.

I park it at mr vestals the nite before and leave it on the lift then ride over the next morn and do the deed.

Ah, the BIC pen and check theory !

No pen no checks I've earned his respect and Im often asked to help him solve tough problesms as they do come up from time to time. recenly he had a customer with horn problem It was blowing when you turn the wheel.

Guess what the fix was.. a clue think grounds.

I wrote #206 and initially, it was for a mid engine application, I've e-mailed the administrator asking him to amend the instructions for rear engine applications but until that's accomplished, here's my original and amended version

Can you amend #206, when I wrote it, I wrote the instructions for a mid-engine 550 not a Speedster


FOR MID-ENGINE CARS, FOR REAR ENGINE CARS, SEE BELOW:::::

Several members, over the past several months, have asked for easy instructions. I hope this
helps.

I've been adjusting VW and Porsche valves for 30+ years the same exact way as I'm about to
describe.

First thing is to print these instructions:


Locate top dead center by removing the distributor cap and rotating the engine clockwise
(looking from the seat of the car towards the rear of the car) until the TDC mark is at the
12 o clock position. The rotor should be pointing towards the notch in the rim of the
distributor. If its pointing anywhere else, try again. Use a large adjustable wrench to
turn the pulley nut, which in turn will rotate the engine..

Once the rotor is aligned with the notch in the rim of the distributor and the TDC mark is
at the 12 oclock position, remove the valve cover on the drivers side of the engine.

The (2) valves closest to the rear of the car are for the #1 cylinder. Reach in and grab the
pushrod, twist the rod and it should spin freely but not to loose. (Note:::: If youre
running a 356/912 engine or a "stone" stock VW with aluminum pushrods, adjust the intake
to .004 and the exhaust to .006 (The exhaust ports and corresponding valves are either
closest to the rear of the car or closest to the front of the car. The (2) center rocker
arms control the intake valves)

Next step, Rotate the engine ""counterclock"" wise one half of a turn. This will bring up
the BDC mark to the 12 oclock position. Adjust the #2 cylinder, it the cylinder next to #1.

Next step, Rotate the engine one half turn "counterclock" wise until the TDC mark is at the
12oclock position. Remove the valve cover on the passenger side and adjust the #3 cylinder
The (2) valves closest to the rear of the car are for the #3 cylinder.

Final step, Rotate the engine one half turn "counterclock" wise until the BDC mark is that
the 12 o clock position and adjust the #4 cylinder.

Install new gaskets on the valve covers and re-install.

Youre done.

The firing order for a Porsche or VW engine is 1-4-3-2-
By rotating the engine
backwards, the valve adjustment order becomes 1-2-3-4-

Cylinder identification is as follows.
#1 is closest to the rear of the car on the drivers side.
#2 is closest to the front of the car on the drivers side.
#3 is closest to the rear of the car on the passenger side
#4 is closest to the front of the car on the passenger side

FYI, the reason you rotate the engine counterclock wise during adjustment is to keep you
from going from the drivers side to the passengers side and back and forth. This way, you
adjust both cylinders on the same side at the same basic time.


FOR REAR ENGINE CARS:::

Standing at the rear of the car, rotate the engine clockwise until the rotor points towards the notch in the distributor and the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire.

Start by adjusting #1 as above then rotate the engine "counter clockwise" 180 degree's and adjust #2. Rotate the engine 180 degree's counter clockwise and adjust #3 and finish by rotating the engine 180 degree's counter clockwise and adjust #4.

#1 cylinder is located closest to the front of the car on the right side, #2 is located closest to the rear bumper on the right side of the car. #3 is located closest to the front of the car on the left side and #4 is located closest to the rear bumper on the left side of the car.

I know it probably doesn't hurt it, but I have a phobia about cranking anything backwards. I like to set them rotating the engine the way it normally runs. I do it ala George Browns's technique. I simply go past #1 TDC 180' to #4TDC and set #4,#3, change sides and set #2,#1. 4-3-2-1. Easy Peasy!

~WB

I've been doing it this way for over 35 years on my own engines and on customer engines.

During the late 60's I learned this method from a Porsche executive who worked his way up from being a mechanic.

Every Porsche and VW mechanic I have ever encountered that worked or works on a 356/912, Type 1,2,3 or 4 engines rotates the engine backwards.

Trust me, it requires less work and is more efficient and lastly, causes absolutely no harm to your engine.

Bill: remember the set of valve adjustment instructions I forwarded to you a while back? EXACTLY the same process as Larry.

I, too, learned from a Porsche mechanic; Al Alden, to be precise who was one of the premier Porsche engine builders for the racing set on the East Coast from the mid 1950's through the 1960's, when Porsche awarded him with a dealership of his own.

Al always set valves precisely the same way that Larry (and I) do it: Find TDC of the ignition (power) stroke on #1, then rotate the crank counterclockwise 180 degrees for each cylinder, and adjust them 1,2,3,4. Easy-Peasy...

Trust us, the engine doesn't give a damn which direction it's rotating when it comes to valve lash adjustments. All you're dealing with is a piece of finely machined metal.

gn

Yelp backwards is the way I do it.

Wellll.OK..But I don't see how it's any less work or more efficient.
I just start on one side and youse guys the other.

I have the "Bug Me" video that shows how to do the valve adj. and the way he shows you is to start at 1, then rotate it backwards to 2, 3 & 4. What had confused me the first time was where he was pointing to on the distributor showing where #1 cylinder is. But once I figured it out, it was simple! Nothing like trial & error, eh?

Yep, no matter which way you do it you can knock it off in 15-20 minutes as long as you don't have to move any exhaust components that may be in the way.(i.e. hideaway mufflers).

As long as you get your cat skint, it dosen't realy mater how...