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Vintage Speedstrer says to do a valve adjustment every 3,000 along with the oil and filter change, checking the clearance at .006.

How hard and time consuming is actually doing the adjustment, and what supplies are needed to button everything back up again to prevent valve cover leaks? Better to have valves a bit on the loose side than too tight from what I understand. Thanks for your help.

2014 Mercedes Benz SLK

2013 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2Dr
1974 Porsche 914 Sunflower Euro Spec

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I just did mine for the first time and it was actually very easy.  Once I properly identified the number one cylinder location on the distributor it took me about twenty minutes to get it all done. I've never done a valve adjustment on any kind of engine.  I watched several videos to make sure they did them the same way and then did mine.  The only thing I messed up on initially was not properly identifying the number one cylinder's position on my distributor. The video I watched had the distributor in the one o'clock position as lining up with the number one cylinder.  My distributor  needed to be in the seven o'clock position to align with the number one cylinder.

 

I bought new cork gaskets and a product called Gasgacinch. I coated both sides of the gaskets with it before re-installing the valve covers and after I buttoned it all up I have had zero leaks since I did it.

 

Here is Chris Vallone's videos:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3MgWSXTwWQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isYX7b5r5Ng

Last edited by Robert M

I've purchased stuff from jbugs and CB Performance before and found the stuff to be pretty good. I don't have a lot of experience so I don't have much to compare their stuff to.  You could also find someone who sells EMPI stuff and they should have everything too. And don't forget the oil. Use the "Search" feature for opinions on oil.  That'll keep you busy for a minute.

 

gaskets for the oil sump cover  http://www.jbugs.com/product/113198031.html

 

new screen if necessary http://www.jbugs.com/product/111115175B.html

 

valve cover gaskets http://www.jbugs.com/product/113101481F-2.html

 

oil change kit (different place) http://www.cbperformance.com/P...asp?ProductCode=1780

 

valve cover gaskets pack of 10 (you can buy less if you want) http://www.cbperformance.com/P...uctCode=113-101-481f

 

 

Last edited by Robert M

With cork valve cover gaskets, I would just put the gasgacinch or Permatex "Aviation Form a Gasket" on the side that mates with the covers.  Put a nice coating of axle grease or whatever all-purpose grease you have on the engine side of the gaskets.  That way you won't have a hard time getting the covers off the next time, won't tear up the cork gaskets, and won't have to scrape off bits of cork with a safety razor and solvent that are glued to the engine.  You will probably be able to use the gaskets again.   

 

Regarding the paper oil sump gaskets, I put Aviation Form a Gasket on all sides of the two gaskets, let it dry a bit, and make sure all surfaces the gaskets are going to touch are smooth and clean.  My experience has been that those paper gaskets can be pulled off intact pretty easily after the engine has gotten up to operating temperature multiple times.  I still have to put some carb cleaner on a towel and clean the sump plate, sump, and strainer to remove old Permatex residue, though, but it's worth it.  There are few things more embarrassing than when your sump leaks.

     

 

Originally Posted by Gordon Nichols - Massachusetts 1993 CMC:

Order a set of these for the NEXT time you do an oil change and use them on your sump/strainer.  Do not use RTV/Permatex/Locktite on them - just put them on dry and they'll seal great.  Next time you change the oil they'll pull right off and you can re-use them multiple times.

 

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/S...Pair-VW-2-p/vw-2.htm

Cool!  Is re-using the copper washers a problem?

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